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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I am mostly finished with my vacuum line/EGR removal and I want to make sure it is done correctly as the car is apart right now so I cannot just run it. Also if something is wrong when I put it together I will know it is not because of this. Anyways here are some pics of what I did including the block offs/fuel line vent.

Here is the turbo elbow, throttle body and air can block off. Its the old hose with a small bolt in it. Seems to get the job done. :dunno:


This is the fuel pressure solinoid and the emission purge solinoid. The emission solinoid in not blocked off. The wires are still plugged into it though.


Here is what I did with the fuel line vent. I pulled out a rubber plug and ran it into the frame to keep it out of the way. I also needed to use the plug on my tranny since it was missing one so I think it worked out well. I read to direct the vent away from the exhaust as much as possible.


Last for now, can I get rid of the intake manifold bracket or does it really need to be there to support the manifold? Will I develop cracks on the intake if I dont run it?


Please let me know how I did and if you have any suggestions! Thanks! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is the block off plate I made earlier today. The only thing I am worried about is that it is like duct work metal so its thin and probably not completely flat. I know I will use copper RTV to help seal it but should I use the metal EGR gasket as well?



About the intake pipe, I am working on getting there as I am just starting my mods. Any suggestions on a good one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just an update, I went ahead and removed the intake manifold bracket after searching and finding about 5 posts that said it was fine.
 

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I found on a donor 1Gb 1.8ltr that I bought, and it had an EGR blockoff plate on it already. I haven't tried to put it on my 2.0 NT but it looks like it'll work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The diagram shows that you go off the turbo line from the intake and T off to your BOV and MBC. The MBC then runs to the wastegate actuator. Is there a problem with this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JamesH said:
I found on a donor 1Gb 1.8ltr that I bought, and it had an EGR blockoff plate on it already. I haven't tried to put it on my 2.0 NT but it looks like it'll work.
I need to re-fabricate my block off as I ran into the problem I expected. The metal was too thin and when clamping force from the bolts is applied, the two edges without the bolts bow upward therefore creating an uneven seal. This is a problem because the EGR holes are exactly where the bolts are not of course.... Back to the sheet metal pile. :(
 

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na94eclipse said:
I need to re-fabricate my block off as I ran into the problem I expected. The metal was too thin and when clamping force from the bolts is applied, the two edges without the bolts bow upward therefore creating an uneven seal. This is a problem because the EGR holes are exactly where the bolts are not of course.... Back to the sheet metal pile. :(

The plate on the 1.8 I found was about a 1/4" thick. I doubt the bolts will bow it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
MyBoostedGST said:
Never T into the BOV line for your MBC. Use a nipple on the jpipe/turbo and then go to the WGA.
So what do I do to correct this. Mine is looking exactly like the after in the Taboo Speed Shop link. There is a problem with this after I have searched and seen about 50 people use the same diagram? I am not saying I dont believe you but could you provide a further explaination? Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
JamesH said:
The plate on the 1.8 I found was about a 1/4" thick. I doubt the bolts will bow it.
Sounds like your good to go. I copper sealed it off for now to make sure it isnt leaking but I plan on fixing the problem before I put it on the car. I just figured if something happened and I didnt get to it then this was better than nothing but I do plan to go out and make a new block off. I still have about a week I would guess before the car will be running...
 

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na94eclipse said:
So what do I do to correct this. Mine is looking exactly like the after in the Taboo Speed Shop link. There is a problem with this after I have searched and seen about 50 people use the same diagram? I am not saying I dont believe you but could you provide a further explaination? Thanks for the help!
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200327

All the info you need is contained in this thread. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the T in the BOV line and run your WGA line from the nipple on the turbo outlet.

Here is a "corrected" diagram I made from the Taboo diagram:
 

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Taking your WGA line from the BOV will disrupt the "reading" your BOV is seeing, and can throw off the BOV's correct operation.

If you don't have a nipple on your compressor housing like some turbos have, then see if the "J" pipe has a spot for a line. If not, you can use a line off the intake manifold, but this isn't recomended. That would be a temporary fix, until you get the means to have a shop mount a nipple on your turbo or "j" pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
green_bread said:
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200327

All the info you need is contained in this thread. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the T in the BOV line and run your WGA line from the nipple on the turbo outlet.

Here is a "corrected" diagram I made from the Taboo diagram:
Thank you so much. That is exactly what I was looking for. It is the stock J pipe as I showed in the pic so it has a nipple to the above poster.
 

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na94eclipse said:
Thank you so much. That is exactly what I was looking for. It is the stock J pipe as I showed in the pic so it has a nipple to the above poster.
By the way, you can remove all of those solenoids, too.. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
green_bread said:
By the way, you can remove all of those solenoids, too.. ;)
I always read just leave the solinoids plugged in so the computer doesnt throw a CEL. Is there any truth behind this or is it 2nd gen specific?
 

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na94eclipse said:
I always read just leave the solinoids plugged in so the computer doesnt throw a CEL. Is there any truth behind this or is it 2nd gen specific?
Ive had mine out since Ive owned the car and never thrown a CEL for them not being there or anything related to them at all.
 
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