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I'm fighting with my friend over my belt timing. I believe my timing is 180 right now. Car does run but choppy.

Crank was at TDC no problem. But my cam gears say, front up, on one side. And The other cam is upside down, with the words upside down. (I can take a pic if this helps.)

Also why does it say to have crack 3 degrees off TDC while installing cams. Someone who has done timing on the 420a please help


Anyone have a pictures how they are supposed to look like?

THanks! You guys are life savers.
 

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I haven't messed with my eclipse yet, but on a neon, the easiest way to tell is line everything up, making sure the crank is on the mark. With the valve cover off, make sure the holes in the cams are both pointing up.

I'm not sure why are you saying crank 3 degrees off of TDC. When installing your belt you want to move your crank back about 1 tooth and when you put tension on the belt it will make everything line up correctly.

I hope that helps...

- Jason
 

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The following info is taken from this site http://www.geocities.com/vttalon/install.html



Grab those camshaft sprockets. If you bought adjustable ones, make sure they are zeroed out and have the lock-bolts tightened down. If you are cheap like me, you'll just paint your stockers. Notice that the stockers say "2.0l Front" on them. This side should face outward on the engine. Slide each sprocket into place and rotate the intake cam so that its alignment dowel faces down. Rotate the exhaust cam so that its alignment dowel faces up. If you feel any resistance, back off and figure out what the problem is. The crankshaft should be rotated so that the pistons are sitting halfway down the bore. If not, they may be getting in the way. Rotate the crankshaft if you need to move them out of the way. The arrows on the sprockets should exactly face each other now. Thread the camshaft sprocket retainging bolts into the cams. You will need a tool to hold the sprocket still while you torque the bolt down. Either build a tool with fingers to grab the sprocket between the spokes or jam something between the sprockets. Either way, you need to torque those bolts to 73 ft-lbs with an 18 mm socket.



Push the half-moon shaped key into the groove in the crankshaft snout. This locks the crank sprocket in place. Put some WD-40 on the crank snout and inside the crank sprocket. Push the sprocket onto the crank snout and engage the key. You should start to feel some resistance as the sprocket gets tight on the crank snout. You will have to pound the sprocket on with a deep well socket and 3 lb sledge hammer. You can also try to thread a long bolt in the crankshaft hole and use it to pull the socket down against the sprocket. An impact gun will likely help as the crankshaft will try to rotate. Either way, stop when the sprocket is just a hair away from the oil pump. Under no circumstances should the sprocket touch the oil pump housing. Next, you can bolt the lower timing belt cover into place on the block. I suggest you cut the cover right at the joint between the head and block. That will make the head easier to pull later. The timing belt cover bolts just need to be snug. 9 ft-lbs and an 8 mm socket will do it. Bolt the tensioner pulley bracket and pulley onto the block. I don't think there is a specified torque for them. How about 25 ft-lbs? YOu can loosely bolt the hydraulic tensioner in place. Keep the pin installed for now. The tensioner should slide freely on its bolts from left and right freely. You'll need some space to work the timing belt around



Rotate the crankshaft to make the TDC mark on the crank sprocket 1/2 tooth before the TDC mark on the oil pump. This gives you a little slack to run the timing belt around the pulleys. Align the marks on the camshaft sprockets. Take a look back at the previous picture. You will want to install the timing belt like that. Engage the timing belt in the teeth of the crankshaft sprocket. While holding the belt on the crank sprocket, engage the belt onto the water pump sprocket, run it behind the idler pulley, engage it onto camshaft sprockets, and finish by running the belt in front of the tensioner pulley. Hold the tensioner pulley to keep the timing belt tight. All of the marks should be exactly where you left them. If you turn the crank sprocket to align the TDC marks, all belt slack should be taken up between the crank and exhaust cam. If you still have some slack, you better try again. When you think you have it right, apply 20 ft-lbs to the bolt on the tensioner pulley. This will hold the belt tight while you slide the hydraulic tensioner up against the tensioner pulley. While still holding the torque on the pulley and holding the tensioner up against the pulley, tighten the tensioner bolts. This is best done with two people, but you can manage by yourself if you are creative. When the tensioner bolts are tight, you can let go of everything. If you got the tension just right, the hydraulic tensioner pin will slide right out with no resistance. If you get this on the first try, go play the lottery. You can look at the pin to see if you need more or less torque on the tensioner pulley to get it right. Try it again, but put more or less torque on the tensioner pulley before tightening the hydraulic tensioner bolts. It will probably take a few tries to get it just right. When you finally get it, rotate the engine over two times using the crankshaft. All of your marks should still line up. If they don't, remove the belt and try again.



Bolt the outer timing belt cover into place. Cut it to match the inner cover you installed earlier. Now, the timing belt will be protected from rocks and flying debris, but you can pull the head or change the timing belt a lot easier. Plus, you can show off your cam sprockets

This info was not done by me (TurboTalon1), it was done by this guy....

[First of all, my name is Corbin. I graduated from Virginia Tech with a BS in Mechanical Engineering a little while back. I am working as an engineer for AGC Engineering in Bristow, VA. They build and refurbish heat exchangers for a variety of industries. My main passion is newer sport compacts, especially the Eclipse/Talon. I still have an eye for classic Mustangs though. I spend most of my time working on my cars or other people's cars. I love to build and fix things...always have...always will. That's about all I can think of right now so go back to my main page now.]

He seems like an alright source of info, although he is an engineer:eek:

Jim
 

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yes intake dowel up, exhaust dowel down. timing marks will be facing eachother at 3 o clock and 9 o clock. make sure all slack is at tensioner and leave crank 1/2 tooth before tdc and have a torque wrench on tensioner at 70 ft lbs torque, install tensioner and pull pin, if you cant pull pin out and put back in then timing is off.
 

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"With the valve cover off, make sure the holes in the cams are both pointing up." jshillin.

Is there any truth to this? Mitchell on Demand mentions this, but when this is done, the cam gear markings do not line up. My car starts with putting both holes straight up and does not start when I have "609" facing "609". Not new to cars by any means just new this Eclipse. Can a cam from another variant been used?
 

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To get perfect timing, you have to deck your head first. Then re adjusted the tensioner, got the pin out, but before I did, I held the belt pullies together with a C clamp attached to the insides of the pullies and stuck an m8 bolt between the cams to hold tension, the belt got tighter as I pushed the tensioner up with a crowbar and bolted it on and nothing moved out of place. The belt seems to have about 1/4 inch of play between the cams, maybe 1/3 before rotation. Make 3 full rotations and it will come back exactly on point with 1/4 inch of play between the cams. (My apologies for the sideways pic, just how it uploaded...)
33888
 
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