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Hello, my name is Clayton, I have a few questions i'd like to ask about my 1994 Eagle Talon 1.8. But first some background on the car.

I bought the car on Dec. 27th for $250 :D , and i walked to the mans house (very close by) and put a battery in the car and it started up after some priming. It ran horrible at that time but that was 5 year old gas and it had been sitting that long also. I brought the car to my house and did the standard I always do when i bring a car home. Change the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and oil. fill up with supreme and add a can of Berrymans B-12 ChemTool (Miracle juice) to the gas, a bottle of Rislone in the oil, and flush the rad system. Also the throttle body was pretty dirty so i ran a can of berrymans b-12 chemtool aerosol spray through the intake running at a constant 2000 RPM. The motor runs just fine now, except the few issues i have right now, here they are. no CEL either

#1. The car can sit there all day long at idle but when you start moving down the road the car begins to heat up and eventually over heats, but you can run it in 4th gear at 2500-3000 RPM and it will drive pretty far without any issues. but anymore and it will pin the needle. *Note this was before Jan 3.

*We took the thermostat housing off and no thermo so we replaced it with a 180 degree thermostat but messed the gasket up, my dad decided he wanted to drive so he made one out of a coffee can lid, worked just fine for about 15 miles (idiot) till the heater went cold and we pulled over, of course this gasket blew and leaked all the water out. so we called mom got here to bring us some water and we made it home. Now that brings us to question 2

#2 Now when i go outside and try to start it it wont start and it runs on the starter, I heard a wierd noise from the starter (nothings wrong with the starter) one day and took plugs 1-4 out and turned it over water shot out of the #1 cylinder 20 feet in front of me. :mad: so i know its a bad head gasket because the rad hoses were rock hard and the exhaust smelled sweet. I have not retourqued the head gasket yet or run a comprssion test. I cant find my tools. Well i guess this isnt really a question but more info huh.

#3 (pre jan 3rd) the car ran extremly rich it fouled bosch platinum plus plugs in 15 miles and the exhaust smelled rich and it was a black foul not a oily one. Im thinking o2 sensor or maybe its the aftermarket intake it has. which leads to 4

#4 the air intake is consisted of a 2 3/4 foot long piece of 4 1/2 inch piece of chrome aluminum, a hose to the head, 2 blocked (but leaking) ports for other things, 2 rubber connectors from throttle body to pipe, and pipe to MAF it has a regular old MAF on it with a K&N filter attached. I think its causing low RPM hesitation. the previous owner didnt even remotly have the intelligence to flash the ECU for the bigger intake, id like to go back to stock.

And im a noob at DSM's im used to Old Mercedes and Volkswagens so its wierd going from manual everything to electronic stuff. :p
 

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Good start. Props. The 4.5" intake is retarted, if you cant find the stock rubber piece I would suggest at least 2.5" - 3". No bigger. Go back to some stock NGK plugs, bosh are junk. Sounds like a headgasket could be a cause of the overheating and reason why the thermostat was out to begin with. You could also have alot of vacuum leaks causing the rich condition, along with the wrong plugs, bad gas...etc.

$250 isnt bad to start with. Good find. Welcome, thanks for doing your best with rule #7, its a lost cause with most noobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hmm thats strange, for years i've only bought bosch parts, but that was for mercedes and I never had an issue are they not very good on american car parts? Ill see what i can do on the intake you can see the ugly thing in my albums i think its the 3rd or 4th photo but its big and ugly.
 

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I rephrase that, bosh are junk for DSM's. Most imports are champion or NGK oem. I looked at the album didnt see any pics. 4" is overkill. No reason for that, just slows down the air velocity. You can find decent cheap intake kits on eaby. At least have a 1 piece smaller intake pipe with no holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
maybe if it were a 5.7 L diesel it would take that big of a tube and i guess post count isnt high enough for people to see them
 

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Doesnt look like 1 4.5 inch to me. I thought the stock TB was only 3", and it looks to fit perfect with that? Either way its not near as bad as I was invisioning. Check those clamps and couplers, they look a little worn out, and that MAF has been hacked. I thought it had a cover over most of it. Possibly have some leaks around those areas. Oh, and that filter is nasty, LOL, clean that up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
this was before i cleaned alot of it up ha ha it was nasty ill put a photo of the engine compartment now
 

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Water squirting out is kinda bittersweet because its funny, but also shows that the headgasket is most likely toast, mine was when it shot out water. The bay cleaned up real nice. Something you might check is inside the actual maf. It should have honeycomb looking metal inside it to meter air, removing this or part of it to help with "tuning" has been seen to happen and make sure it's plugged in and in the connector firmly. Next I would replace all the vacuum lines with new, it's cheap and can help rule out alot of things. I'm still thinking it needs a head gasket though. If you have any other questions ask away in the 1.8 forum, I have one I DD and have rebuilt pretty much the whole thing other than transmission at one point.

Swade
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Whenever I disassemble the motor to change the head gasket, the manifolds will be out of the way and then the real scrub begins!

Also where can i find a vacuum hose diagram for a 94' Talon DL 1.8l Manual 5 speed?

Furthermore, The maf is 100% there.
 

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I was examining the engine today and noticed as I squeezed a rad hose that a gurgling/bubbling noise was coming from #1 the worst piston, also under the valve cover I was looking at the rocker arm shaft and where it connects to the front bearing cap by the distributor gears it leaks a couple drops of water and it drips into the oil off the shaft. i have no clue about what this could be.
 

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Got a pic of that? I'm like Swade, rebuilt my 1.8 from the ground up. That intake looks better than mine! I have had trouble with mine and the K&N filters... for some reason it won't idle right and misses durring drive with it on.
Swade, the honey comb piece in mine I have removed on my older one and is not wired or connected to anything? The honey comb tin piece are only glued in.
 

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See when I took my honey comb out, it killed my idle. Ran noticably richer. I would put it back if I still had it. I have found on 2G's there is a screw at the bottom that, was told, can lean the MAF out a small amount. :dunno:

To the OP it does sounds though you have a head gasket issue, any time oil and water mix, disaster will soon follow. Or possibly warped head, all these could be good reasons the other owner sold it cheap and it had it sitting for so long.
 

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Head gasket for sure. If water is leaking through the head casting, sounds like a cracked head! Have you been over to www.dsm1eights.com? If a head is needed for replacement find a Cyclone head.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well what I need at the moment is, a guide on how to change it, and any hints or tips to changing them would be welcome. What all "should" I replace and what all "needs" to be replaced?
 

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Keep as much of it assembled as possible is the best tip. It's been sitting so long I would suggest replacing all the included gaskets anyways from the kit. SandCobra on here is another 1.8 guru, along with Mischif... Hopefully they will log in and give a few cents as well.

It's been outlined in several threads as well as one of mine but I'll sum it up for ya.

*Remove Alternator/ Power steer pump
*Remove Upper Timing Cover
*Remove exhaust manifold (should just rest against Rad Fan)
*Remove Distributor
*Remove Intake Manifold/ Throtle Body as assembly
*Remove Valve Cover
*Before Removing the cam gear set the crank and cam to TDC
You may wanna replace the timing belt while your in there. I had no need to as it was done by a motor shop for me so I took the short cut route.
*Apply Vise Grip pliers to center top of cam gear to hold belt to it.
*Remover center nut for cam gear/ let rest aside
*Unbolt head in steps followed in pattern from a manual
*Lift head out

You should now what to do from there..... Good tips are using a Phillips screw driver to get the gear/belt back up to the cam. Use Silicone sealant around the water port block off on the intake manifold. Use NEW HEAD BOLTS!!!! Apparently over on www.dsm1eights.org we had a discussion on who can pull a head the fastest and it was around 30 minutes for Mischif I believe. Make sure you check that head for cracks before reinstall.
 

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You are also running into some more problems with the head gasket being blown. With water getting into the oil, your bearings could be starting to rust, or rusting out. I went to go buy a 3000gt VR4 that had the same problem. But I took it to 3sx to have them look at it, and sure enough the bottom end bearings were on their way out.
 
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