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Discussion Starter #1
I'm going to start rebuilding my oil pump and come to find out, I've got four hex bolts holding it in (normal) but one Philips screw (WTF!?). Why is this here?

When looking at the instructions for b. shaft removal on vfaq I noticed that the example had five bolts. Since this screw seems to be aluminum or some other very soft metal, I'm having a hell of a time trying to turn it with out stripping the head. Anyone had this problem? Could anyone give me some pointers? I've tried some heating then pounding but to no avail. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can't, the head is recessed, and if you mean grip the screwdriver with them, I don't think I could provide sufficient enough down-force to counteract the twisting so as not to strip it. Has anyone actually come upon this is situation themselves and personally gotten it out?
 

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Has anyone actually come upon this is situation themselves and personally gotten it out?
I was thinking the same thing when doing a BS removal... WTF is phillips screw doing there. In my case it was on a '97 so I figured it was a crappy 2G thing. I guess not.

I eventually got the screw out, but I had a horrible time doing so. First I just tried to use a screw driver and push down as hard as could while twisting. Just as you predicted it stripped the screw. Next I tried different drill bit sizes and screw extractors. This did not work well because the screw is made of soft metal. The extractor would just dig a bigger hole. I started getting pissed at the damn thing so I drilled down as deep as I thought possible without messing the the oil pump and front case. I got a screw extractor and started at the hole diagonally to try and bite the screw better. Once it bit, I kind of twisted the drill counter clockwise and suprisingly it came off. BTW I was damn close to drilling into the threads. I replaced the screw with one that needs an allen. Don't know what the hell the person at mitsu was thinking when they decided to go with a screw instead of a bolt. Good luck man :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crappy 2g thing? No. Crappy 7-bolt thing? Yes. :)

I had a little trouble following your steps, you say you drilled diagonally, then twisted the drill? I wonder if I couldn't just cut a flathead groove into the head and extract it using a flathead? Usually flatheads work better in these situations right? Okay, hypothetically, let's say I get the screw out...would there be a problem with replacing it with a bolt? Either the engineer thought he was being funny or he really did need sufficient clearance in that area. The 6-bolt pump has five so why can't we?
 

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I had a little trouble following your steps, you say you drilled diagonally, then twisted the drill? I wonder if I couldn't just cut a flathead groove into the head and extract it using a flathead?
I wouldn't recommend what I did. What I used was a screw extractor, like an EZ-out. I drilled straight down on the center of the head and put the screw extractor in the hole slightly diagonal. Once the extractor bit, I twisted the whole drill with it. It's kinda hard to explain with words and easier to show, but your method sounds like it's probably better. As for replacing the screw, it doesn't seem like there is anything that would get in the way of a bolt being there. I really wonder why they changed it??? The new allen screw I got is a lot stronger and better than that phillips junk they put in there.
 

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DO NOT put a bolt in there to replace the screw....needs to be flush like that for clearance. the front case won't seat properly if you put something in there that sits higher.
 

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I finally got it out. I took it to my grandfather's business where they've got all sorts of tools for precision machining of metal. We ended up just putting it in a drill press, making sure we had it centered, then drilling straight down into it. That took the head right off, which allowed us to remove the pump cover and the rest of the bolt ended up being able to be removed by hand. So basically just drill the head off the bolt and the rest falls apart. Careful though, the head tapers severely so one wouldn't be able to cut a groove in it too deep. I too then replaced it with a standard sized metric screw with a 4mm allen socket that appears to be made of a much stronger metal. Why the Mistu Engineer decided to use something so soft is beyond me, heat reasons? Would the bolt expand at the same rate as the rest of the surrounding metal? Hope I didn't change anything too drastic!
 

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There is a tool out there that works wonders on that kind of bolt. It's called an impact driver. the part # from craftsman is 00947641000. It works by hammering the end of it (downward force prevents slipping) and It turns as the force of the hammer forces down. It can be used either to tighten or loosen. I've got one in my box!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The only problem with that is getting a flat surface for the reverse side of the front cover. Also allowing for fairly even weight ditribution becuase you don't want to crack that aluminum!
 

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I've always put pieces of wood under the front case before hitting it with the impact hammer. Those things (impact hammer) flat out kick ass, you can get off any screw with them.
 
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