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Discussion Starter #1
1990 eagle talon tsi awd

was stock ->

dejon tools sheet metal intake manifold, upper intercooler pipe, lower intercooler pipe, intake pipe, and their j pipe.
also gm maf in blow through set up, and a jrc intercooler, the piping is all short route, all the work was done by myself...

when i try and turn it on it starts, goes up to 1000 rpms, then dies imediatly...

ive narrowed it down to either bad maf, huge vacume leak, or bad o2 sensor.

lets start with what i dont think it is, namely, the o2 sensor:
reason for suspision: pocketlogger reads .03 volts at all times, which is no where near .85, the correct value it should be at....
reason for it being the last suspect: nothing was done to make it go bad, and it was just replaced 3k miles ago (before i bought the car)

second, the maf:
reason for suspision: bought it used
reason for it being second to last: getting a hz reading from the logger, i trust gm more than i trust my own work...

lastly, a leak: (this is the main point of this thread)
i just did a dry test from the turbocharger, and from the maf itself (eliminating everything else) with a bike pump and a custom made boost leak tester, and the car would not hold any psi at all for any amount of time...

all the piping is hard, and all the silicon hoses are tight...with clamps as tight as i can make them... ill try a wet test, but will that screw up the maf, since last i was told, water and electronics dont mix...or can i just put some soapy water in there and pump away with my little bike pump?
 

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well see if there hooked up right on the distributer cap cyl 4 on the distributer cap wont work right if its hooked to cyl 3
 

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Discussion Starter #5
shes a turbo so its a coil not a distributer, they are hooked up correctly, im almost 100% positive it is one of those three problems, so please try and help me eliminate those problems first, then we can look for others
 

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duh my bad was working on 1988 gmc i wasnt thinking right after i posted that i hit my self in the head. retard there is no distributer.ok if you have a different computer"not stock" get a program called DSM link it will basicly tell you if ya know how to read it. it will solve all of your problems "basicly"
 

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Discussion Starter #7
dsmlink is a tuning device that requires your epromed ecu to be chipped so that you can have a laptop feed properties into your cars computer from the diagnostic plug. i dont know what your talking about, but i would have to get my eprom ecu chipped and pay 600 for dsmlink in order to read the dtcs, which is all that dsm link can do to solve my problems, and i already have a datalogger that can read dtcs as well, and i dont have any at the moment...
 

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it will solve all of your problems "basicly"
and if ya have one already then nevermind, try the soap test. if ya feel like ya can do it safely. recheck hoses clamps and re-silicon it and if that doesnt work. well i dont know.
 

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dsmkid...I think you tried to help, but your answers really were not helpful...if you don't know, then don't respond

No, you do not need to buy a $600 tuning program just to check to see if it's throwing a code..

Your problem could be a huge number of things, to me it sounds like a horrible leak or a ecu/maf problem...

If you can, look for somebody w/ an air compressor so you don't have to mess w/ a bike pump trying to pump 20psi...It's ok to spray soapy water on couplers and pipe connections, you are supposed to

Check out the MAF, are you positive it is installed correctly...Stupid question: You have a MAF-T installed right? B/c a GM MAF will not co-operate with the ecu unless it's readings are translated to karmon first...Hopefully you do have one

-The ecu: visually check for any connection problems or leaky caps
- Pipes: Just the obvious, visual check for any pipe that you might've forgotten to install completely or tighten

- Intake manifold/Tbody: Check all of the vacuum lines coming from the manifold...I am not sure if the SMIM eliminates some of them, but it is very possible you forgot to plug a hose in

- Check for fuel; you are obviously getting spark..Listen for the fuel pump>

- 02: It is very possible the 02 sensor installed was deffective, low readings usually show that

-Are you getting a CEL?? If so just check the datalogger for the code

Good luck buddy...Respond back and I'll try to narrow it down again
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Chicago_DSM said:
dsmkid...I think you tried to help, but your answers really were not helpful...if you don't know, then don't respond

No, you do not need to buy a $600 tuning program just to check to see if it's throwing a code..

Your problem could be a huge number of things, to me it sounds like a horrible leak or a ecu/maf problem...

If you can, look for somebody w/ an air compressor so you don't have to mess w/ a bike pump trying to pump 20psi...It's ok to spray soapy water on couplers and pipe connections, you are supposed to

Check out the MAF, are you positive it is installed correctly...Stupid question: You have a MAF-T installed right? B/c a GM MAF will not co-operate with the ecu unless it's readings are translated to karmon first...Hopefully you do have one

-The ecu: visually check for any connection problems or leaky caps
- Pipes: Just the obvious, visual check for any pipe that you might've forgotten to install completely or tighten

- Intake manifold/Tbody: Check all of the vacuum lines coming from the manifold...I am not sure if the SMIM eliminates some of them, but it is very possible you forgot to plug a hose in

- Check for fuel; you are obviously getting spark..Listen for the fuel pump>

- 02: It is very possible the 02 sensor installed was deffective, low readings usually show that

-Are you getting a CEL?? If so just check the datalogger for the code

Good luck buddy...Respond back and I'll try to narrow it down again
yes i have a maft, the ecu is about 6 months old if that, from the dealer, no leaky caps here, doing the boost leak test from the gm maf, so i cant really be missing any pipes as there is only one...all vacuum lines are there, if i rev the engine to about 4k rpms it wont die... im getting fuel (also i smell fuel when i disconnect the pipes, so i know its getting some, too much?) no cel, can the o2 sensor be bad even if there is no cel?
 

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Put a stock MAS back on the car and try over. Pressurize the intake system and try over. That will eliminate 2 of your possibilities.

A bad O2 sensor while making the car run rich, will not keep it from running all together.
 

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well i believe ive established that it is running too rich since i can smell fuel in the uicp when i disconnect it after trying to start,... which leads me to believe that its not a vacume leak.... unless the ecu cuts the spark when it gets below a certain rpm, then there would also be fuel in the intake, or if the ecu dumps fuel as the rpms drop, but then it would start to die, come back to life a little, that kinda stuff, its just dropping dead...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok so i just put the 1g maf back in, and tested it, the first time i tried it got to about 300 or 400 rpms, then died, the second time i gave it some gas, it got to 3k, stayed for a little while, then died.... its done that before, but the last time i did it i though it was because i put carb cleaner on the throttle body, cuz it went to 3k by itself, then stayed there for a little bit, and then died.... which is what it did this time too....

so its either a vacuum leak or the o2 sensor... btw i could smell gas very strongly the entire time, and after that i put the tester back on at the maf and started pumping my brains out with the bike pumper, still couldnt hold anything, but i swear to god, underneath the sound of the bike pump i could hear it leaking out, it sounded like it was somewhere near the throttle body, but i couldnt really tell....(thank god it wasnt the most expensive one (new gm maf 130, since i wont want to deal with another used one...), and is looking like its the least expensive one, (leak!!!!))
 
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