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Discussion Starter #1
The 2g Spyder Project is still on hold. We'll come back to that some day.

Project Spare Parts was sold. While it was a fun project, it wasn't truly what I was looking in the long term being a 1G FWD 5-speed. While it was a quick and fun car to drive, it lacked some comforts and opportunities I just wouldn't find from that specific car.

My preference for DSMs is in the 2g body and AWD. While I appreciate a nice manual transmission, I find the automatics to be more street friendly.

Years ago a fellow DSMer came to my garage to offer a hand in removing / installing the transmissions in my 2g Spyder. Given that I was swapping that car to an automatic, he inquired as to why and made mention of an AWD automatic 2g DSM his Aunt owned, which had been parked for a number of years. He fell out of the scene and never acquired the car, but being good friends with another local DSMer, connections were made and the car finally made it's way back into the limelight this spring. It was sold to a guy I regularly bought parts off of for Project Spare Parts.

The car was nearly bone stock; to a point I don't believe there were ANY modifications done to my recollection. The new owner's plan was to put the car back into commission after fixing the relatively easy reason it was parked - a blown intercooler coupler.

After some tinkering, he had the car running and briefly sold it to his non-enthusiast neighbor. The neighbor lost interest over a month or two before the car ever left the property, so the transaction was reverted without any title work ever taking place.

Now back in the hands of what would be the previous owner, he wanted it to be a stout yet streetable automatic car, but his cam selection and otherwise stockiness wasn't allowing for the 16G he'd now installed to build appreciable pressure for quality launches. After some back and forth, I offered to buy the car from him if he wasn't able to make it perform to his liking. No amount of tuning was going to make the car launch as hoped for on an otherwise factory 7-bolt and automatic transmission with a 16g and 280 cams.

I left the previous owner to his devices and listed Project Spare Parts for sale. At this point a GVR4 came on the market and the 2g was no longer of interest to the previous owner. If I could just sell Project Spare Parts, the dominoes would start to fall and many cars in the area would change hands quickly.

As luck would have it, I had an interested party within a week or so. A few nights of back and forth over beers, we settled on a price and the [Diamond] stars aligned.

The sale was finalized just before the 2016 Shootout in August, which was perfect because I could source a lot of parts for cheap. It wasn't until after the Shootout that we'd collect the car and bring it home. Despite it's semi-drivable condition, the car was decommissioned sometime in 2007 or 2008 as the State Inspection sticker and LOF sticker suggest. I wanted the car to be turned back to [near] stock and would allow the previous to keep a number of parts he'd installed such as his 280 cams, injectors and Link. I opted to leave the 16G on the car and didn't throw objection at leaving the BC springs and retainers under the stock cams. There was also no reason to remove the head studs that were installed along with a new head gasket by the previous owner.

So, I have in my possession a pretty raw 1995 Eagle Talon TSi, AWD, Auto car that is essentially stock after ~110,000 miles. It was a daily driver until it was parked nearly a decade ago and shows it's wear. Fluids, filters and the like all need addressed, but this is a great start to a restoration project that shall remain stock, for the most part.

Enter Project 2g Talon.

 

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I tried to submit a build thread about my 2GA AWD Auto as well, to no avail apparently. Grudges run deep. Anyway.


What are the plans for it? Another flip?


Also, nice choice. ;)

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nope, not flipping this one. I flipped Spare Parts for a number of reasons all which the car has. Spare Parts was a 1g, FWD, 5-speed, no a/c, no cruise control, was far from stock, was too loud for my liking and wasn't comfortable to drive for longer trips. I'll come back and visit this thread soon with my 2g plans.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So here's the deal- the car is nearly stock and plan to keep it that way, at least under the hood. It has a MHI 16g, ARP studs, felpro head gasket and BC springs and retainers. Currently, it's running at 7-psi even though it's through the stock BCS. Much beyond the panel filter I added, removing the BOV tube inside the turbo inlet snorkel and likely a boost controller (15 psi), the car will stay as it is. I did do the Dodge Garage Mod to a 2g BOV and will run that as long as I know it will hold boost.

As for everything else, I'm not 100% set on a plan. My indecision is what is under the car. If I were to have a path laid out, I'd install new control arms and urethane bushings along with a set of KYB AGX struts and SS brake hoses. That doesn't sound like much, but it would make the car handle very well.

Now to bring the project up to speed. Since getting it home I've spent an absurd amount of time cleaning, returning it to stock (or close to it), adding optional factory bits and upgrading other components. My next update will be once I've collected all of the pictures and organized them in order to tell the car's story to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As I go through pictures and try to tell the story, I realize there has been a lot of work that has gone into this car since I've gotten my hands on it. Progress will be extremely out of order as I get this thread caught up to where the car is now. Rather then going chronologically, I've sorted through pictures and organized them by category, but I'll do my best to narrate a story.

The car sat at the previous owners house for a while before we trailered it home. We agreed on the sale within days of leaving for the 2016 Shootout. It would be a few days longer once we returned for a co-worker and I to find time to collect the car. The previous owner had wanted to strip out a few parts that I'd agreed to, but hadn't gotten around to it. He left a few things installed knowing that I'd return them once I started swapping things back to stock. Either way, it was late August before the car finally arrived at the house from across town.



Here's what I'm dealing with. The car sat for a LONG time before the previous owner got it. It had a state inspection sticker that expired all the way back in 2008, and an oil change sticker issued in October 2007.



Most places will print a 3,000 mile interval, suggesting that the car was taken off the road less then 300 miles after it's last oil change. The previous owner had put some maintenance and miles on the car, so it's safe to guess that the car came off the road in 2007.

Current milage when I finally got it...



I had heard it run and drove the car only to get it our of the yard and onto the trailer. I have done plenty of business with the previous owner over parts so I trusted him in the drivability of the car. It would be a few months before I finally got to take it for a shakedown drive due to maintenance and so forth, but the project had begun.



The timeline is a bit fuzzy here. While at the Shootout I had purchased a few used items, such as the security cover along with placing an order from RockAuto. The first order of business was to start addressing the interior as that would have some seemingly quick closure. To-date, I haven't completely finalized my work in the interior, but it's not far off.

Knowing I'd be in and out of the trunk frequently, the first order of business was to install new hatch struts.



I'd also start taking pictures or damaged and missing items in order to place an order with Miller Import Parts. There were plenty of little items as well as some larger pieces that Stevie would supply to fully button the interior and exterior back together. Washer pumps, squirter nozzles on the hood, some interior items and a better condition hatch seal for instance. All in all, I had a laundry list for him, but he provided what he could and I don't believe I have anything really missing throughout the car at this time.

A piece of advise when knowing you'll place an order to MIP, take pictures as you go through the car. It's an easy way to remember all the little items you'll need to order...



Onto the good stuff! The interior was a mess. The second owner, which the car died on and was parked, used the car as her daily driver for a long time. She had no interest in modifying anything which is why it's so far stock, but the neglect is also present. The interior isn't in awful shape, but stripping it down and addressing the messes endured from being a DD was one of the first things I wanted to do.

Everything came out of the car that I was willing to remove, but this picture gives an example as to how the interior was before I got to work.



Sitting for as long as it did, I found two mice around the car along with their nest they'd made under the center consul.




Everything was coming out, so it was a good time to address the ECU. The last owner had installed Link on his spare ECU but also provided the stock ECU. I also had a 2g auto ECU from the parts car which donned it's running gear to the AWD Spyder. I never thought I'd use the ECU for anything being non-eprom, but it found it's home in the green Talon. Given the stock nature I plan to leave the performance, I found no reason to install the supplied EPROM ecu back into the car, and would shelve it for later.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
The second order of business while working on the interior was getting the broken driver's door handle swapped out. I have no reason to paint it just yet, but ordered 2 sets of handles and will talk about this more later.

The car has the factory security system which also means power door locks. The driver's actuator was bad, but a working unit was ordered from MIP. In the mean while, I also got my hands on a factory remote and decided to also get a keyfob to match the car. The car has remote locks again!



Anyhow, the cleaning took the better part of a few days to complete. Nearly everything was stripped out, cleaned and polished. Even the spare tire well got a attention. I'm meticulous, so this means scrubbing even the body under the carpets. The factory spare tools were cleaned and painted; the spare wheel cleaned and tire-blacked. The efforts to restore the car at this point are real and cumbersome seeing as I still wouldn't be driving it for some time. The results however are spectacular.







The trunk was a unique challenge. I have been lucky in finding a number of factory optioned items. The car had the cargo hooks but didn't include the net. As luck would have it, I found one during a junk yard excursion in a Mitsubishi Galant. Yes, there is a CD changer in there also, and I've added a subwoofer, but more on that once we get to the audio.




All in all, the interior came out great. I'll cover my still-to-do's once we're fully up to speed.


 

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Discussion Starter #7
Now this is really off time-line and only added last weekend, but since I'm covering the interior first, I figured I'd address it now.

Staying stock I don't have a desire to clutter the factory interior with gauges, but I wanted a boost gauge. First, I intended to install it in the glove box for occasional use, but after sitting in the car and trying to view it from the driver's seat, it wasn't a good option for even occasional viewing.

I ordered a single pillar pod and quickly decided against using it once it arrived and I saw how terrible the fitment was. In my book, if a modification must be visible, it must look good.

I no longer had any options to not look gaudy until I did a bit of research. I could put the gauge in the driver's door! Not only would this be better then the glove box, but I could make it fit the car's lack of obnoxiousness. I ordered up a spare vent just in case I didn't like how things went. I had the plastic on hand from my plans for the glove box install. Wiring everything through the door loom was a challenge to say the least, but getting the boost reference to the intake was as easy as running out of the door and through the fender.

Made a little plate using a dremel with a cut off wheel. Cleaned it all up, painted it and got it all hooked together. I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. I may change the gauge later down the road for something with a black face, but it's working just fine right now and matches the factory gauges at night with a 194NA bulb installed.



 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wrapping up the interior for now- this car has a good sealing, fully operational sun roof. This feature was something I wanted in a car but didn't have in Project Spare Parts. I like a sun roof. I also like the rarity of the sun shade that came with the car.

Sadly, the fabric had lost it's bond and showered brown glue all over the interior whenever the shade was moved.



I got lucky at the junk yard and found a spare in a Mitsubishi Montero which has the same sunshade as our DSMs. It's fabric was completely gone. I like working on spares just in case I don't like how things turn out, however this also came out great. I wrapped it with Super77 and some fabric that was close enough to the factory color. I learned a few things along the way too.



...and reinstalled it a few nights after letting the glue setup further.


 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Moving onto the audio. There is a lot that went on in this department but very few pictures.

When I initially got the car it had an Aiwa CD player powering the factory speakers. You can imagine how it sounded. Besides the head unit, speaker wiring and speakers, everything else was gone.

I absolutly love the factory head unit in these cars. I think the Infinity system sounds amazing and the options for this car are far better then you'd expect.

First things first, I had bought a factory head unit while at the Shootout. $9 and I could try it out. Low and behold, I didn't realize that the unit grounds through it's body so I used it for parts to get my old unit from the Spyder working again. Basically, I had to rob the fact and buttons off due to previously building a dummy plate to cover the other car's double din screen.

Once I got the unit in, I found out that the car no longer had it's factory amp. Without it, I've got nothing. Thankfully, a friend of mine about 2 miles away doesn't like the factory sound and was no longer using his amp. He let me have it along with the extra factory cables from his car. I'd end up grabbing all of the factory cabling, including the 10-disc CD changer's wiring which wasn't pre-installed in the 1995s due to the 6-disc configuration and different head unit.

Well, I got it wired up and could finally hear what I was dealing with.



The results were not impressive. Of course, all the speakers were so old, they were either blown or distorting due to no longer having their foam surrounds intact. I was able to keep the subwoofer setup I had in Spare Parts, so I opted to use Kicker products throughout and also do a little tweaking to help improve the sound quality.

The stock speakers came out of the rear and I sealed off the enclosure on the inside.



Poly filled the enclosures...



Installed some gorgeous looking 6x9s...



Then sealed them to the enclosures...



The door speakers were also blown, but I wouldn't get to those until a few weeks later once I stripped the skins again to fix the lock actuators. Like I said, the order of how things have gone is no where near chronological. I still wouldn't drive the car for about a month or two.

The trunk... well, this is unique. Spare Parts got a subwoofer upgrade with some stuff I had around. A Kicker 10" sub with a Kenwood 600 watt amp. This would work in this car only due to this amps built-in high level input that I tapped into from the 6x9s. This little combo really pounds the low notes into the car. I've had other speaker setups before and by far this one is the most efficient combo I've ever owned.

You'll also notice in the passenger's side cubby that I have the late model 10-disc CD changer. I was able to get it wired up with the un-used cables and power wire my local buddy supplied, but getting an operational CD changer this old is damn near impossible. I had a broken unit in my attic and would collect 2 other DOA changers before ordering one from eBay that was sold as new-old-stock. It too arrived DOA, but with some tinkering and a reduction in price, I got myself a 10-disc changer for $25, along with 2 extra magazines from the DOA units.



I previously talked about the cargo net and security cover, so nothing more can be said about that. The door speakers were swapped out for 6.75" Kicker units and the car sounds great but I've yet to get to the most unique and best part of the factory head unit.

So this 1990s technology doesn't support an AUX input. FM/AM/Tape/CD/10-Disc doesn't do much against today's technology. Other head units from the era do, but I wouldn't be able to keep my 10-disc setup.

A tape adaptor would be sufficient, but you are dead wrong. Fuck ugly, exposed wires! There must be another way. I'm going to leave that reveal to the bitter end of the audio section.

While at the junk yard I had grabbed a spare power outlet. My plans of no longer installing the glove box boost gauge dashed the idea of using the glove box as an additional power source for USB charging. Cutting to the chase, I installed the power outlet in the center consul with just enough room to still get the semi-rare coffee mug holder reinstalled. I added a two-port USB charger to the outlet. Having recently upgraded phones, my old iPhone 5 has new life as an MP3 player. Now having the ability to charge it in the car adds too the audio... but wait, there's more!

eBay has some pretty unique things. If you can dream it, China makes it. I don't like exposed cables, but need a way to connect to the head unit. Here's the big "awesome."

Bluetooth Cassette.

Yup, they make those now. A friggin' tape that you can sync your phone to. This little bastard is awesome too. I can charge it in the car through the extra power plug I added. It turns on via a switch or automatically when the "tape" mode is selected. It also lasts about 6 hours between recharges.

So, to recap;
Stock head unit
Stock Amp
Factory wiring
upgraded everything to Kicker (re-used dash tweeters)
Added a subwoofer
added a factory 10-disc changer
AM/FM/CD/10-disc/Tape/Bluetooth MP3 capability

So, I've successfully brought a DSM into the current decade, it continues getting better!

It operates hands free via "Hey Siri."

 

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Discussion Starter #10
The car was up in the air for almost a month, possibly more. I'm sure my neighbors were getting tired of seeing yet another project flying in the driveway. They also got to watch me work on it nearly every day. This part of the project was what prevented me from driving the car for such a long time. I wanted to get the maintenance caught up.



All of the fluids had to be changed. They'd been sitting for an estimated 1-year shy of a decade. The previous owner had already done the timing components, but I like opening things up to make sure they are done to my standard despite trusting his work.

I started at the rear of the car and worked my way forward. The rear differential and transfer case were the first fluids to be changed. Nothing terribly exciting there.

Once I made my way under the hood progress really came to a crawl. Here's how it started.



To slam through a bunch of non-pictured stuff, I changed out the spark plugs from the BPR9ESs the previous owner installed. I also swapped to a 190 Walbro versus the 255 the previous owner installed. He also like to use parts he had laying around, but that wasn't always the better option for this car. The 650cc injectors came out for a set of stock 450s that I DIY cleaned. The fuel filter was painstakingly changed and a factory battery hold down was installed. The power steering was flushed and I moved onto the timing belts.

The car had a noisy timing belt when I initially got it. The last owner had installed it properly, but I had no way of knowing until I opened it up. He was correct and had replaced the water pump, BS belt, pulleys and so forth, but I was afraid he'd not tensioned the timing belt properly. I reset the tension and still had a noise. I made the decision to open it back up a few days later and replace what would end up being a faulty tensioner.

Now comes the rest of the engine... what am I dealing with?

Well, I have a nice set of 1g NGK wires atop the now factory spark plugs.



I'm also in possession of a fully equipped emissions car, right down to the color coded vacuum lines.



All of the injectors were missing their hair clips along with the MDP sensor. Somehow I had a full set here from a junk yard run I'd made for Spare Parts.



The car also had all 4 injector brackets included. I'd lost one somehow, but MIP supplied an extra. Talk about going full on factory- I didn't know these even existed.



Coolant was a fun chore. The system still needs some attention despite flushing it many, MANY times. To exchange as much fluid as I could, I gutted the thermostat knowing I'd replace it soon.



On with the flushing. I was pumping water into any opening I could find until I could get it out clear. The cooling system was BAD.



On my first full fill and burp of straight water, things weren't looking too good. I was still getting some nastiness out of the block.



Temps were starting to get cold at this point and I got antifreeze in the engine within hours of our first sub-freezing night. Along the way I'd also replaced all of the rubber cooling hoses with a silicone hose kit. The smaller hoses had already been done, but in red- again what the last owner had around the garage.



The previous owner had provided me with the factory spark plug cover. It got a quick clean up and went on just to see how things were going.



Some other serious progress had been made by the time I took the last picture. The J-pipe was a mashed together setup that required the fans to be swapped from side to side. Since the car has a 16g and I don't want to run a FMIC, I got creative with a few of the j-pipe options I had around along with some additional 1g and 2g factory ducting. Somehow the factory ducting I had made everything work seamlessly with one of my J-pipes and also allowed me to install the fans back in the stock locations.



Some quick paint work on the J-pipe and it appears factory.



I got creative with the spark plug wire routing in order to not strew them out of the cover.





The valve cover is usually raw on a 2g, but I didn't think it would look so out of place to paint it as bare aluminum. I changed out the hardware to allen heads too along with a new gasket (duh.)



Plenty of other little things happened like the radiator cap, cleaning the ever living hell out of stuff, swapping air box lids for better looking units, changing the M/C cap to something that wasn't stained. Perfection is lost in the details, and there are a lot of small things to bring it up to par. A better condition spark plug cover was ordered and I replaced the oil cap with the best looking one I could take from the junk yard. I had my selection once I got them cleaned up.



The previous owner had installed an o2 dump which meant loosing some of the heat shielding also. I had my stock 2g dump around, so that went on instead. The shields were cleaned up and given a great looking coat of high temp flat silver VHT. This is how the engine bay currently looks. I still must polish the valve cover letters and do some further cleaning, but it's come along way.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
I should mention that I likely have to replace the radiator due to some less-then-steady temps on the factory gauge. The heat is also lack-luster in the cabin. I suspect the core is clogged since I have no air pockets and plenty of movement. Rust has simply plugged too many things on this car to really allow proper the radiation under the hood or in the cabin.

The brakes and wheel wells were another few days of work.

With the car in the air I cleaned up the wheel wells. They were caked pretty bad with what looked like heavy pollen that turned to mud. Some power washing, some degreasing, scrubbing, a whole lot of leg work and some point brings back some nice results.





The last owner had installed new front pads and rotors. The rear pads were in perfectly reusable shape. The rear vented discs (1995!!!) were in need of some attention. I like not having rusty hats ruining an otherwise clean wheel end. More leg work!



Start by wire wheeling the rust down.



Then paint the world flat. Don't mind the faces...



...because brake lathe.



Admire your work.




Cleaned up the calipers and hit them with a little paint, then re-installed everything.





Nice and tidy. Fresh fluid behind those pistons was also a must.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wheels and tires...

Again, this can't be chronological, but it's less then a month or so since I put tires on the car. The previous owner optioned to me the XXR 530s for an additional cost. I was in the air about it, but the time came that I'd need to make a decision, so I purchased them rather then install the factory wheels.

I do have the factory wheels however. Since this car was to be one of my fair-weathered-but-cold winter cars, I figured I'd gain a little bit of appreciation from a good tire.

I work for Firestone. I also work a lot. One of the perks for working for a tire company is the discounts. Having factory wheels to put some all seasons on along with a set of 17s, I waited until a very good sale came around. Between employee discounts, rebates and so on, I bought 8 tires for less then $200.

The 17" XXR 530s got a set of Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole Positions. They should give this car a pretty strong footing once I get around to the suspension and possible auto-x event prep.





The factory swirly wheels were pretty rough. As an off-season wheel they'll work out good enough. For them, they get a set of all season Bridgestone Ecopia 422 Plus tires.



They didn't polish out nearly as good as I'd wanted, but knowing they'll see some abuse, I wasn't terribly worried. Today I cleaned them up better then they've likely ever been, then laid down a fresh coat of paint. I didn't want to go far from stock to be honnest. I re-used the same can from the valve cover which is ever so slightly darker then the factory color with a slight hint of bronze. For a few hours of work, they aren't too bad. I'll mount the tires some time in the next week or two.

Stock is on the left, painted on the right.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
The body is the last thing to address. There are a slew of dents I need to have pulled and the paint is horrible. I've done a few things to the exterior like painting the wiper cowl and wiper arms, but I won't really dig into the body until the spring when I can send it to be painted. I plan to stay with the factory green and black, but change a few things up.



The more I see this particular green, the more it grows on me over all the other greens I've seen on Talons.



Suspension is still in the works, but I couldn't pass up a good deal at the Shootout. I came home with some Eibach Sportline springs. Sadly, they are for a GST and aren't Pro-Kit, but I may install them anyhow and see how it goes. If it's too low or too soft, I'll dive into the Pro-Kit. My strut options and suspension upgrades are the big modifications I want to do to this car in terms of performance. More on that in the future of course since I haven't fully made up my mind.




The one thing I have decided on and am fully committed to is a 2gb swap. I also scored an unhacked front bumper at the Shootout. That was the initial purchase that lead to a nasty investment spiral. I already had an extra set of 2gb Talon fog lights, but the rest would need to be sourced. Next came strakes which should arrive next Tuesday. The rear bumper arrived today. I plan to keep the chip spoiler and am lucky enough to have a replacement for the 2GA side skirt that is cracked.



The plan is:

2G b Talon front bumper
2G b Talon fog lights
2G a Talon side skirts
2G b Talon door strakes
2G b Talon rear bumper
2G a Talon chip spoiler
Black out the headlight housings
Smoked front corner markers
Factory colors top and bottom
Lowered
XXR wheels

POSSIBLY a CF hood painted like my Spyder's that allows the carbon weave to show through, but keep the factory appearance from a distance. I'm working on finding a used hood now.

If I play my cards right, I'll have a setup identical to my Spyder and look very similar to this with out the FMIC, different wheels and no chin spoiler:

 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, that's about it for now. We're up to speed. I've got a slew of things to still do with the car and I'll keep this thread updated as I progress. I'm sure I've overlooked some details, but due to not having a build thread started when I began the project, I can't see remembering all of the little stuff. Enjoy, and please, POST YOUR FEEDBACK REGULARLY!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Time for random meandering thoughts and goals!!!

The biggest problem and concern I have with this car is the temp gauge. While driving, it goes a little past the middle mark but does come back down. I'd suspect this is due to the fan coming on. Every DSM I've owned has held a rock solid temp gauge unless there is an issue OR there is a restriction in air flow across the radiator. In this case, the car still has the factory radiator ducting and no FMIC. Outside temps have been moderate to cool also which tells me it's not likely a flow problem. I'm actually suspect that the radiator has lost efficiency due to the amount of crap that came out with the coolant. I'm not opposed to installing a new radiator and will throw in new temp sensors (gauge and ECU) as preventative. If that doesn't nip it, I'm at a loss. The gauge almost responds like there is an air pocket, but this car is burped properly.

Secondly is the heater core. The heat is awful and nearly non-existent. I can hear the blend door opening and closing with the knob and I do have slightly warmer air through the vents, but it sucks and would never be sufficient to heat the cabin. This is the other symptom that has me thinking the radiator is stuffed. I never flushed the heater core and it's likely full of mud. I need to back flush it and will run some CLR through it when the time comes.

Getting the heater core hoses off is a pain in the ass unless I remove components. The battery isn't a big deal. The cruise control gets in the way. 3 bolts and I can move that monster around a bit. The intake is my biggest inhibitor. If I'm going to get that far into the firewall, I want to pull the throttle body and clean it out. The car seems to run fine, but it's something I know would provide some benefit. The FIAV hoses aren't connected and the previous owner said he'd closed it off. I wouldn't mind having a good FIAV and have the remaining silicone hoses here. It's just work/time which I don't have much of any longer.

If I had a day off where it was warm enough to work outside and the parts readily available, I'd knock out all this stuff and be able to close the hood until Spring.

To continue rambling, the rest of the stuff to do is on the interior. Cleaning bits and pieces or repairing little things. Here's my to do list until the Spring when I will start looking at the body and paint work:

Replace PF turn signal bulb (marker side is burned)
Paint and install the Driver's front wheel well forward splash shield. (current is torn up)
Replace the radiator (because over heating?)
Back flush the heater core (because no heat)
Install FIAV (Stocky-stock-stock)
Clean the TB (cleany-clean-clean)
Sea-foam the engine (110K of EGR poo)
Figure out how to un-stiffen the throttle pedal (it's quite firm)
Wire the fog lamp indicator (I love this mod)
Fix the passenger's window rattle (when fully down)
Inspect/replace the door checks (Pop-Pop)
Clean/repair the head liner
Clean the interior door skins
Clean the floor mats
BLT
Run more then 7 psi (check BCS system or install MBC)
Mount/install factory wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Tires mounted to the factory wheels. I put some new retainers behind the center caps also since they were beat and broken.

Just finished placing my order for a new radiator, both coolant temp sensors and four sway bar end links. The end links aren't a priority but I know I'll replace them eventually and I'm skeptic if they making noise. I have 2 things of CLR on hand to flush the heater core out with, along with a handy-dandy garden hose fitting to help push water through.

I'd love to get this all done soon. There aren't many warm days left and the coolant work won't get any easier. At least if I get the messy stuff out of the way, I can pull the car into the garage and knock out a few of the other things and be protected from the wind.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Strakes didn't arrive today. Crossing my fingers I don't get a package tomorrow thats ripped to shreds with only a panel retaining pin in it.
 

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Love following your stuff. Not much of this around anymore and you do a great job.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, strakes arrived yesterday. I guess it's official, I'll be building the same bodied car as my Spyder, with a few tweaks and in green.

I ordered up a new radiator, gauge sensor and ECU coolant temp sensor along with 4 new sway bar end links. The weather has been fair, so I'm hoping in the next few days I can get the parts in and "fix" the heating/cooling issues before it gets overly cold. During the day time it's still been really nice, but I work way too much. I'd love to get it all swapped over and be able to drive this car periodically through the winter to figure out enough to have a great car in the spring, before it goes to paint.

...waiting on parts.
 
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