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Discussion Starter #61
Won an ebay auction for a black box ECU. It's slated to arrive tomorrow and I'm off all weekend. Not really looking forward to the pin work, but I'll be happy when I can start tuning the fans and monitoring temps more easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Got the ECU installed, injector pins swapped and ignition firing order re-arranged nicely. I wanted to keep looking at the injector pin swap info to insure that what I was doing was accurate. Spent a few hours only to realize information that RRE had published contradicted my own findings and that RRE's info would set the injector firing order incorrectly for the inverted CAS signal.

Rather then swapping plug wires around, I inverted the two pins at the coil connector and the car fires right up. Currently, I am able to log with EVOScan, but due to getting an incorrect pin from the JY for the ECM, I do not have flashing ability just yet. Trying to get an ECU pin currently, but my flash connector is correct.

Logging the ECU temp sensor shows that my temp gauge is very sensitive once up to operating temp. My fans come on at 206° and shut off around 198°. My gauge cluster rests the needle at the middle tick of the thermostat symbol right around when the fans come on. I haven't driven the car, but what I initially suspected was overheating may have actually been the car hovering around 214°. Once I gain fan control, I fully intend to kick the fans around 195° vs. 206, with a shut down of around 182° and see how it performs. Sure, they'll be on more frequently, but I'm guessing this may keep the gauge far more centered which is what I've likely grown accustomed to.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Still working with the temp gauge thing.

It's Thursday (my usual-but-not-always day off) which lately has lead to a car swap. I tend to drive the TSi monday-wednsday, then switch out to my DD Subaru for weekend detail which it's a bit more suited for (grocery store, hardware store, gas cans for the mowers, out to dinner and so on...) Changed out last night and decided to rip into the TSi today to see how far I could get.

The body is now all 2gb Talon. The interior is still fairly gutted in the back end, but I'm neglecting the re-install at this point since I'm now trying to get a PDR guy to work their stuff. The goal is to give him access behind any panels he may need, so there's no reason to re-install stuff just to pull it back out again for him or the subsequent paint. The bumpers and other pieces will be pulled for paint also, so today was the start of a long journey and won't see fruition for quite a while.

Pictures:

Rear stripped:


New bumper mounted:


Tail lights back in (loosely):


Fired holes in my ship; got the strakes mounted:


Looks like ricer bull s*** due to the miss matched colors:


Shouldn't turn out too bad though once the dents are pulled and the car is painted:


I also successfully pulled the Eagle badging along with the TSI AWD from the 95 bumper that will be re-conditioned and re-applied after paint.

Nothing terribly exciting, but progress is progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Haven't been driving the car much since I've ripped the back end out to do the bumper install. I don't see a reason to re-install the interior when I'll have to take it right back out to remove the bumper for prep and paint.

I still haven't gotten around to installing the SS brake hoses. No excuses really other then I just haven't felt like going through jacking the car up and taking all the wheels off again.

I did decide to order a hard pipe kit for the SMIC. After dealing with some boost leaks and recognizing that the J-pipe I have is cracked at the weld, I decided to pull the trigger. I have a turbo inlet pipe already, but had stripped that setup for parts that went to a friends car, so I had to order another MAF adapter and filter. I'll install all intake stuff at one time and likely rebuild the TB as well when the stuff begins to arrive.

I did arrange to have a paintless dent removal guy come out and smooth the body out. I'd looked over the car and marked a bunch of the areas I'd seen which ended up being more then what he'd of done, but the price didn't change. I'm pretty darn happy with the results since the hatch had a fairly good dent right on the edge that he was able to get out. He did leave a dent at the driver's rear quarter panel, but was able to make it less noticeable. I'll likely have that one glazed up before going to paint. When you start looking a body over for defects, it's pretty amazing the number of flaws you can find.






I visited a friend who's got a few of these cars sitting around his property. Low and behold he had some parts that I'll need for the turbo inlet pipe, but he also had a junk head that had some factory cams still installed. I've been wanting to make another hood prop since the hood pins on both the Spyder and this car don't allow me to retain the factory location. It's funny- with all of the work that is done to the Spyder, people either comment "I like the seats" or "Where did you get a camshaft that long?" as they look at the car. When I say "This car" they get really confused. Little bit of threaded dowel makes that cams collapsable but also the perfect length to have a sturdy prop rod.

 

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Discussion Starter #65
I haven't heard anything from my painter, but I've been very occupied with 2 other active projects. I haven't disassembled the car for paint but, I have one very nice update.



Project Spare Parts came back into my life for some repairs. Payment was made in the form of by ravaging some savory parts off the car provided I replaced them with operational equipment.

Remember this fella?



Well.... his slightly smaller cousin was a suitable replacement to take Project Spare Parts to the prom.



That's right- I got my turbo back!!!!!!!



This turbo and I have been through a lot. Multiple upgrades from being a s16g to a cast 20g-td05 that made 320 ft/lbs at 23 psi on my Spyder when it was FWD. Later I upgraded it again to a Billet 20g TD06SL2 and ran it on the Spyder. It made it's way into Project Spare Parts when I opted to go with an HX35 in the convertible.



Such a pretty compressor wheel!



The TD06SL2 wheel.



I'd forgotten, this unit had an upgraded wastegate flapper.



The TD05 hot side had also had a little work done. You can really see that turbine wheel. It's a pretty cool upgrade because no machine work is required to fit the TD06SL2 wheel in the TD05 exhaust housing.



Since the turbos were both "on the bench" I was happy to get my ported exhaust manifold back also.



It's been worked over pretty good from stock.



Now, I wanted to keep my heat shields intact, so I'd opted to re-use my ungodly ported o2 housing versus throwing an open dump at the car. I'd been running this in the TSi already when I pulled the open dump off that was included on the car when I purchased it.



Installation progress:



And finally, that little sneaky bastard is back on an engine I own looking all stock appearing and nearly ready to put down some real snark.

 

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Discussion Starter #66
I'm still installing a hard piped SMIC kit and turbo-filter pipe. I haven't quite finished up the TSi since I have Spare Parts on hand that is being a little inconvenient due to driveway space. I'm also planning to do some other work that warrants not quite installing the rest of the pipe work. More on that later....

For now, I've got my old turbo back!!!
 

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I'm curious about the ridiculously ported o2 housing. Did you notice any adverse effects using something so... hollowed out for the o2 housing? I wouldn't imagine that there would be, but I don't think I've ever seen one so hogged out before.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
I never saw any ill effects of it. I had the back housing mated to my cast 20g-TD05, ported exhaust manifold and stock flapper and it made nice power and controlled boost really well through a 2.5" DP to e-cutout.

When I upped the turbo to the billet extended tipped 20g-TD06SL2, we did stick a larger flapper in the hot side. I was still on the same ported 2g manifold but was flowing through a 3" turbo back. Boost control wasn't an issue there either. I'd never experienced any creep. We did struggle to get the car to make more then 20PSI, and the dyno operator thought it was due to a restriction, blaming it on the o2 housing, but clearly it had been opened up to a massive degree. Turns out the gate needed shimmed a shit load.

Turbo Lab was who ported it, but this was when they were still throwing the idea around of opening up a shop. At the time, they'd only ever built one other 20g, but I'd thrown them my manifold and housing to hog out. This was what I got back. Clearly, it looks a little amateur, but after testing it out, it never gave me an issue. On the cast wheel 20g, the Spyder project made 325/320 as a FWD manual at ~20-23 psi with no creep issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Let's see... the turbo install is finished. The hard-pipe kit for the SMIC is done. The inlet pipe for the turbo is done. I had pulled the intake manifold off for painting and installation of a heat barrier gasket. It is now all back together. While I had the pipe work apart, I replaced the throttle body shaft seals, deleted the EGR valve, and re-did the vacuum lines. Threw it all back together and BLT'd the car damn near perfectly. Fidgeted with the boost controller a little and have the turbo at 14 psi. I even installed a BISS plug For the most part, the underhood work is complete, but I will eventually get around to a fuel pump re-wire and possibly some larger injectors.

While out testing the new turbo, I had a caliper lock up on me. Smoke was rolling out of the passenger's front wheel. A day later I took it all apart and played with the pistons. While the caliper wasn't frozen any longer, it wasn't performing well either as the car would pull left when hard in the brakes. I had the SS hoses around and have been stalling putting them in, but this was a perfect opportunity. The car still pulled to the left, so I moved onto replacing the front calipers. In doing so, I opted to clean everything up again on the front and rear brakes, and re-did the calipers in black.

The car feels really nice now. It drives smooth (a little bouncy), brakes well, accelerates sort of quick. It also wants to stay a bit cooler- around the 203* range on EvoScan.

I may have it dyno tuned in order to get a little more out of it. My next challenge will be paint and/or the fuel tank since the pump needs re-wired and the gauge reads a bit high.

Also, called my painter and he has left town permanently. It really leaves me in a pickle since his paint work and price were already planned on.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Crap, forgot to throw out the pictures of how stock the engine bay still looks and the new brake/suspension stuff.

I should look into a black elbow.




 

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That blue coupler does stick out a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Can't really say I have much of an update. I have found someone to paint the car and it is going to cost considerably more then what I'd budgeted, but I was getting paint work done for an amazing price before. Thursday/Friday of this week is being somewhat dedicated to disassembly and a bit of additional work on the hood.

The car seems to run pretty good on the highway. I think I've seen a nice bump in MPG and coolant temps are a bit lower with the work I've done. I still have more to address in the cooling area, but I've been dabbling with other bits.

The last two nights I've been playing with the launch control settings in the H8 Ceddy mods. Previously, I'd put the stock rom image back in since the Ceddy files like to throw CELs for emissions stuff. It was my intension that if I could get the car to work well with launch control, I'd dive deeper into the rom and figure out the CEL. After playing with target AFR and timing, the best I've been able to net on the foot brake is an additional 100 RPM when running 34+ of timing and no AFR control. This isn't enough for the car to push over the hump.

I'm at a loss.

This is the second car I've had that has either a loss in power or a stupid tight converter. I can only manage about 3-4 PSI at 2200-2300 RPM and the car hits a wall and won't push through. Given the fact that I then would have to deal with the random CELs built into the filthy ceddy files, I'm better off running the stock files unless I can figure something out. I really wish I could have (at minimum) fan control for cooling ability, but just the act of flashing the Ceddy file will throw an evap code after about 3 engine-run cycles, then other codes after the drive cycle monitors finish.

I wish this car would build some boost on the line. I think if it did, it would make for a hell of a spirited track car, but NOOOOOOO.... for some fucking reason I always end up with an issue that throws a fucking RPM wall in front of the cars ability to build boost on the foot brake.

Reving in Neutral with the anti-lag setup gives me all the boost I want and will bounce hard off the limiter at 3750, but the damn car just doesn't want to make it over the converter hump. FUCK! 34 degrees positive timing and the torque just isn't there.

I'm going to change the transmission fluid and filter here soon and hope that helps. While I doubt it, I'm out of options besides ripping the engine apart, ripping the converter out for a re-stall, or spraying it... none of which I want to fucking do on a car that most people have no problem brake boosting in to launch like it fucking should!
 

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Discussion Starter #73
It has been down right hot the past couple of days and today is no exception. I'll likely have several hundred updates today while I work on the car since I'll be coming inside to cool off.

Yesterday I changed did a transmission fluid exchange at work. From reading, I'd found that if I can get a lower viscosity trans fluid, it may help with the stall speed. I had two fluids on hand, Pennzoil Platinum ATF +4 or Pennzoil Platinum multi-vehicle LV. I called Pennzoil to figure out which one was less viscus. The Multi-vehicle was acceptable in my trans and had the lowest viscosity rating of the two, so in it went- all 20 quarts through the machine. What came out was pretty damn nasty. I'm glad I took care of the maintnence for sure, and I feel that I may have gained just a little more slip, but I haven't yet pulled the laptop out to verify.

While having the hood open, I did find that my BOV recirc tube was not going to cut it. I started off today by re-working that with a new DIY tube. It's not pretty but it's functional until I can really dig into figuring out a clearner solution.

My fuel gauge has always been an issue. Many posts back I'd began to look into it, but gave up for a while since I'd filled the tank. It takes me a good bit of time to go through a tank since I don't drive this car often, and when I do it's not for extended trips. Finally, I'd gotten the level low enough that I could do some diagnostic rummaging. The gauge would read great up until the last 1/4" then would stop. The low fuel light would occasionally come on, so I knew I was getting close. As it turns out, the pump side sending unit was getting hung up in the tank. I was seeing ~19 ohms when I knew that I was far lower on gas. I'd already pulled the driver's side sending unit since it's much easier, ohm'd it out and made sure it was working properly, checked grounds and so on. Now that I've pulled the pump and repositioned it, I see 44 ohms which is closer to the "bone dry" 55 ohms. Told ya I ran it low! I'm hooking everything back up now and have the gauge reading less then 1/4 of a tank, so I'm fairly confident I've resolved the problem.

Since I'm into the fuel pump, I'll be re-wiring it shortly. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Fuel pump re-wire done. Took a bit longer as the skys opened up and dumped a bit of rain. I also decided to beef up the ground for the pump which I'm somewhat surprised most write-ups neglect to include. Your power source is only as good as the ground you can provide it. Doing a fuel pump re-wire is helpful since you are supplying more potential to the pump, but just like car audio, the device being powered can only do so much with a minimally sized ground.

To my surprise, the pump is really quiet. I haven't driven the car yet, but before there was a fairly audible whine from the Wally 190. Now that I've re-wired it, I can't hear it when testing.

Moving on- time to address some more stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Got the interior back together from the re-wire, then started in on fixing the hood up for paint. I need to remove as much of the clear coat I sprayed (for protection) so the pro-grade stuff can be laid on well. Started with 600 wet but will likely step back to 400 dry and work my way back through the stages like I did when I first got the hood.

I'm hoping tomorrow to finish up the hood, run out and get a little bit of fuel, then get the body fully disassembled. I had to take a little bit of time to get some of the old parts picked up off the garage floor so I could have some place to put stuff as the interior comes apart to disassemble the body. Having 2 active projects eats up a lot of space.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
What a long and hot adventure. The body is stripped, degreased, washed... everything the painter asked I'd do.

Delivered it to him along with all of the pieces this evening. I should have it back in about 2 weeks for reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
So am I. We agreed on a price, but some extra stuff has come up. Basic filler/glaze in a few very small spots with some primer, but otherwise, things seem to be going smooth. I have avoided bugging the guy too much, but he's making progress. He sent some pictures last night (see below) and says the main event gets rolled into the booth and 100% complete tomorrow. Fingers crossed I get to pick it up on Sunday.

I'll have door handles for days! I decided when painting the spyder that I would have a few extra handles painted. I collected a few more over the years from various brand-new junk yard finds or ebay. I threw everything I had unpainted to the painter just in case.

Oh, I also decided to get a down pipe to match up to the Thermal cat back. The flex pipe has a small leak, and I would need to throw one quick patching tack on an area that the exhaust had to be welded up to mate to the Thermal stuff. I figured, if the flex is leaking, it could be collapsed inside. The car could also be restricting. I'm hoping this will allow me to build boost on the converter, otherwise I'm out of ideas that I'm willing to throw money at.

Oh... I also bought a stubby antenna. Not sure how that's going to look, but for $3, I figured why not.



PICTURE TIME! I decided to go with the stock colors and stick with a factory look, also avoiding to have to cut in a lot of jambs or under the hood and such. Standard Talon paint scheme with the black pieces up top.

Deep Green Metallic on the body:
Color Code: G36/PGK

Black on the A-pillar/roof, spoiler, upper hatch area and mirrors:
Color Code: X13/PX8:

The black is getting clear coated unlike the factory single stage upper portion.

















 

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I'm excited to see this all put together.
 
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