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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of installing my DME Camber kit and have hit a roadblock. The drivers side arm unbolted easily, the nut came off and the bolt was broke loose from the bushing and hammered out. I have removed the nut from the passenger side upper mount but cannot get the bolt to break free of the bushing, therfore I can't hammer it out.

I Have soaked it in PB Blaster for two days now, I've used a breaker bar as well and tried prying at the mount. I just can't seem to get enough movement in the bolt to spin enough to break loose from the bushing. It always kind of rebounds after a small turn.

I want to try using heat now. Is the proper way to head the head of the bolt hoping the heat transfers down the bolt and melts away whatever is holding it in? Or should I heat the outside of the control arm around the bushing to begin softening that up?

Is it okay to use a small propane torch or is an Oxy/Acetylene torch necessary?

I have a monster sized balljoint remover tool I tried to use but I can't get it to fit the area since its so large and the space is to cluttered and tight.

Any other suggestions for removing the bolt?
 

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If you heat the control arm, you'll torch the bushing. You'd have to heat the head of the bolt.

I don't know how long it would take for the propane torch, and oxy torch will heat it much quicker, I'm sure both would work, it would just take longer with the propane.
 

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I had this problem changing my lower lateral arm, breaker bar and everything, stupid thing wouldn't budge.
My dad came by and used his air hammer for about 1 second and it came out. I even tried the torch.
Sometimes it just takes the right tool.
 

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Preferrably, you want to heat up the center bushing insert (the cylindrical piece the bolt goes through. This will, however, torch the bushing. Heating the bolt head may work, but will likley not do much good (the component heated will expand, resulting in a tighter fit inside the bushing insert). Definitley use acetyline torches if available, as the propane torch will take forever. Last resort: cut the bolt and bushing insert inboard of the outer clevis. I have burnt out the rubber bushings before, but it is dangerous and messy= use caution.


....And yes, do try the impact or the air hammer first if you have not done so yet.
 

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I had this problem yesterday on an accord trying to adjust rear toe. I heated the bolt at the head and the thread sides. Not cherry red but pretty damn hot. I then sprayed CRC on it (WD-40) while it was hot in hopes that it would help penetrate. Then I was able to break it loose with a breaker bar. You can use propane since it doesn't have to be cherry red. But Oxy/Acet gets the job done much quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would have used air toosl already if I had a compressor. I have a corded impact gun but it is to large to fit in the space. I also don't have an Oxy/Acyt torch.

I guess my first try will be to heat the head and threads of the bolt with a propane torch and see if that will allow me to break it loose. I might try to cut it out as a last resort. I want to buy new hardware from the dealership anyways.
 

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I was installing ingals arms on a car and the accentric bolt was bound up like you are talking about. The bolt was seized in the bushing shell. No amount of heat, pb blast, air tools and swearing was getting thise bolt out. I ended up cutting the bolt and in the process went through about 5 sawzal blades. Mind you these were blades made for thick steel and the expensive blades. Then when the new bolts went in a healthy dose of copper antiseize went on everything.
 
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