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Rebuild trans shifting hard

564 Views 14 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  deedstoke
Long story short I took a huge risk on buying a 98' GSX off ebay. Rebuilt transmission has less than 100 miles on it, I know the seller said it has an ACT pressure plate and a kevlar clutch. He had a shop rebuild it and he installed it himself (car was originally an auto). Transport driver called me today and said when he was driving it onto the trailer that it was pretty hard to get into gear and the clutch almost had to be on the floor.

I'm thinking the master needs to be properly adjusted? Sounds like it's not building enough pressure, seller said the salve line be bought was like 8 feet long and maybe it being too long is not allowing for proper pressure? He also stated the cables he used came off a junkyard car so they could be bent or binding.

Where would you guys suggest I start, what sounds most probable?
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1. Check for leaks at the Master and Slave cylinders. Bleed the clutch line. They are tricky to bleed correctly.

2. Adjust the master cylinder push rod in the car. Normally, if you turn it in (towards the car) it lowers the loading point (where the clutch engages - closer to the floor in this case) and turning it out raises the loading point. In your case, it needs to be turned out but you have to make sure this is only done to the point where you can still depress the slave cylinder rod into the slave with your finger. If you can't ,you need to back it out til you can. This is what people recall as "adjusting the clutch."
3. If you have done 1 and 2 correctly, you should have a firm pedal. If it's not firm, repeat 1 and 2 until it is.

4. 2Gs have accumulators in the clutch line, sorry I am not very familiar with them so I will leave that for you to research in these forums.

5. ACT clutches are notorious for disengagement issues so they may need the pivot ball to be shimmed a little to alter the clutch geometry. This sucks because you would have to drop the trans. This is especially true if after doing 1 and 2...you are barely disengaging the clutch on the floor.

Regarding the shift cables, you can tell if this is an issue by disconnecting them at the trans and manually shifting the car into gear. If you can shift it into all gears fine from outside but there's an issue from inside, then that's the issue. I don't think that's your issue here though.....yet.
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Perfect response, a huge thank you!
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I can’t seem to find the point where I can move the slave by hand, does this position tend to occur better with the rod adjusted towards the firewall? Also I’m leaning towards needing a shim for the pivot ball, would me running a stock clutch most likely eliminate that need?
I can’t seem to find the point where I can move the slave by hand, does this position tend to occur better with the rod adjusted towards the firewall? Also I’m leaning towards needing a shim for the pivot ball, would me running a stock clutch most likely eliminate that need?
So, it just feels stiff? For the slave cylinder to work properly it has to displace the clutch fluid back into the Master cylinder reservoir. So, either you didn't thread it out enough or your slave/master is defective. Watch this video.

Yes, stock clutch should work fine without the pivot ball shim....assuming the flywheel step height is in spec. and your slave/master cylinders are in good shape.
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Thank you again! Yes it’s pretty stiff, the slave and master are brand new. I will go ahead and keep adjusting to see if I can get it to move by hand. Bleeding the system will be next on my list
I suggest you crack the bleeder loose, bleed the line and the slave, close bleeder valve and pump it a few times. Once it feels firm, check whether you can depress the slave pushrod into the slave by hand (I usually use the clutch fork to do this.) If it doesn't, thread the MC rod "out" a 1/4 turn at a time until you can depress the SC rod by hand. It should at some point. When it does, tighten the jam nut, pump a few times and hopefully your clutch can disengage. If not, you have other problems....
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Car is at the trans shop as we speak getting the trans dropped, no idea of the history of the flywheel. Would you recommend oem flywheel and clutch to start off the bat? It does have an ACT pressure plate but that should be okay being left in correct?

and thanks again for all the input it’s much appreciated
Found out flywheel had been machined down by previous owner, went ahead and ordered a stage 1 flywheel and clutch. Closest I could find to oem. I should have it all together next week and hopefully that cures my issue
Check step height when you get it. It should be very close to .610", even if it is new, check it. .610" is the factory step of the flywheel clutch mounting pads. This has nothing to do with the stiff pedal, but ALWAYS check that measurement before you put it back together.
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Thanks! And if that measurement is off then I’ll need to shim correct?
Thanks! And if that measurement is off then I’ll need to shim correct?
No, the flywheel will then have to be cut to the correct step height.

I've NEVER had to shim a car with an ACT clutch in it---providing everything else is working correctly. This includes checking the bell housing under the pivot to make sure people didn't over-torque it in the past and indent the case itself.

This includes running their 3200 prototype for them way back in the day.

Checklist:

--Flywheel step/condition
--Pivot and clutch fork are new, or are confirmed to be not worn.
--Throw Out Bearing is resin type hub, and the T/O bearing shaft is not severely grooved from using a metal type hubbed bearing
--Master and Slave Cylinders are in good working order
--Last, but not least, CORRECT bleeding of the clutch system. This is the most common one I've run into over the years. People try bleeding them like brakes. I.E., "Pump, pump, pump, hold, crack slave cylinder open, rinse, repeat". This will only bleed the Master Cylinder correctly. Air will still remain in the slave cylinder.

Do the above a few times, THEN do the above, but squeeze the slave cylinder closed by hand, etc. (more fluid (and some air) will come out of the bleed screw), THEN close the bleed screw while holding the slave cylinder closed. Do the process this way 3-4 times and your system should be fully bled.
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Thanks for the in depth checklist, trans shop will be checking the step height before final assembly. By the way the clutch is a south bend only the pressure plate is an ACT! I’ve heard mixed stories on some people having bad luck with that particular combo
Oem flywheel and clutch solved all problems! Thanks guys for the input
This has nothing to do with the stiff pedal, but ALWAYS check that measurement before you put it back together.
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