Rebuild trans shifting hard

1. Check for leaks at the Master and Slave cylinders. Bleed the clutch line. They are tricky to bleed correctly.

2. Adjust the master cylinder push rod in the car. Normally, if you turn it in (towards the car) it lowers the loading point (where the clutch engages - closer to the floor in this case) and turning it out raises the loading point. In your case, it needs to be turned out but you have to make sure this is only done to the point where you can still depress the slave cylinder rod into the slave with your finger. If you can't ,you need to back it out til you can. This is what people recall as "adjusting the clutch."
3. If you have done 1 and 2 correctly, you should have a firm pedal. If it's not firm, repeat 1 and 2 until it is.

4. 2Gs have accumulators in the clutch line, sorry I am not very familiar with them so I will leave that for you to research in these forums.

5. ACT clutches are notorious for disengagement issues so they may need the pivot ball to be shimmed a little to alter the clutch geometry. This sucks because you would have to drop the trans. This is especially true if after doing 1 and 2...you are barely disengaging the clutch on the floor.

Regarding the shift cables, you can tell if this is an issue by disconnecting them at the trans and manually shifting the car into gear. If you can shift it into all gears fine from outside but there's an issue from inside, then that's the issue. I don't think that's your issue here though.....yet.

Tortuga said:

Thanks! And if that measurement is off then I’ll need to shim correct?

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No, the flywheel will then have to be cut to the correct step height.

I've NEVER had to shim a car with an ACT clutch in it---providing everything else is working correctly. This includes checking the bell housing under the pivot to make sure people didn't over-torque it in the past and indent the case itself.

This includes running their 3200 prototype for them way back in the day.

Checklist:

--Flywheel step/condition
--Pivot and clutch fork are new, or are confirmed to be not worn.
--Throw Out Bearing is resin type hub, and the T/O bearing shaft is not severely grooved from using a metal type hubbed bearing
--Master and Slave Cylinders are in good working order
--Last, but not least, CORRECT bleeding of the clutch system. This is the most common one I've run into over the years. People try bleeding them like brakes. I.E., "Pump, pump, pump, hold, crack slave cylinder open, rinse, repeat". This will only bleed the Master Cylinder correctly. Air will still remain in the slave cylinder.

Do the above a few times, THEN do the above, but squeeze the slave cylinder closed by hand, etc. (more fluid (and some air) will come out of the bleed screw), THEN close the bleed screw while holding the slave cylinder closed. Do the process this way 3-4 times and your system should be fully bled.