DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is in my '97 Spyder GS-T. I rewired the fuel pump which is a Walbro 255, with a wiring kit I got on ebay. It came with the same stuff as the VFAQ guide recommends.

I soldered and taped everything well, double-checked the connections to the relay, and reconnected the battery.....

And then the fuel pump made an intermittent noise for about 10 seconds. A humming noise for a second, then a pause, then humming, then pause, etc. and this went on for about 10 seconds and then silence.

So I was alarmed but figured I'd try to start the car anyway. No such luck. So I'm not sure where to start...have I killed my fuel pump? Maybe I chose a bad grounding point? Is that noise from the fuel pump normal after the battery gets reconnected?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,374 Posts
You couldnt of killed the pump. The pump should be able to take any amount of current and voltage the car can produce.

Do you have a multi meter? All you have to do is see if there is 12v at the pump when the car is on. If there is 12v then your pump is fucked, if its not there, then youve got an issue with your wiring or relay.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,661 Posts
Not only that, but you can test voltage in several places.

1. You can test it AFTER the fuse, and BEFORE the fuse in your power wire by the battery.
------ This was my culprit when my rewire was done. It was only after having my car towed due to no start issues 3 times I finally figured the shit out. The wire which goes into the fuse holder and leaves the fuse holder was loose causing my no start issues. I bought an inline fuse holder off of ebay for $3.09 shipped. It came with a 60A fuse. I know the fuse is too much for what I need, but it allowed me to drive my car without it not wanting to start randomly.

2. You can test the power at the clip which connects to the relay.

3. You can then test it at the white plug which connects to your fuel pump assembly.

4. You can then test it at the plug which clips into your FP.

If you don't have current in all of those places then something is wrong with the wiring.

If you do have current in all of those places, pull your pump out of the tank, grab a 9v battery and test it. If it turns on, then you know its something with the wiring itself, and not the pump. Make sure your constant/switched power is wired right. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well, you guys aren't going to believe the stupidity you are about to read. I found the problem, and it's BAD. I couldn't get a screwdriver to poke a hole through the rubber in the firewall, so I used a drill. You see where this is going?

It was night and I didn't have much light, so it looked clear on the other side of the firewall to drill. Well I found out today there was a bundle of wires there which I didn't see, and of course I drilled into it. So now I have about 5 wires totally frayed and contacting eachother, in a really hard spot to reach, and with almost no freeplay. And I have no idea what those wires go to but they are preventing the car from starting now. Looks like I'm going to have quite a chore if I can even succeed at all. I can't believe how careless I was. I would probably shoot myself if only I had a gun.

If I can't do it, do you guys know of any places that can do wiring? Would the dealership, or someplace like Firestone or Goodyear service centers be able to?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,818 Posts
ssearles said:
I can't believe how careless I was. I would probably shoot myself if only I had a gun.
You always have the drill!:D

On a more serious note I'd just get a soldering iron and start soldering. Pull back as much of the wire loom and tape as possible and just go slowly. Obviously same colored wires should go to each other.:rolleyes:

We've all done stupid things and just need to move forward. Worst comes to worse you can always use wire barrels and crimp in segments of wire in place of the bad area. I prefer solder but they'll work if necessary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well the problem with adding wire is getting to the wire in the first place. It's going to be very hard to get wire cutters in there, let alone strip the wire and connect more wire to it.

Thanks for the offer on wiring diagrams, I'll let ya know if it looks like those will be of any help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, I've taken out the battery and tray and I can get to the bundle. I found 3 completely severed wires and 3 frayed ones. I am able to pull the top halves of the severed wires upwards out of the engine bay to where I can work on them. The bottom halves have no free play at all and I can barely fit my hand in there, let alone wire strippers.

I can possibly remove the charcoal canister and the battery tray mounting bracket which surrounds the charcoal canister and I would have some more space. However, I think maybe my easier option will be to go on the inside of the car under the glovebox and acces the wires there. Then I can can cut them on the inside and run new wire from those ends to the open ends inside the engine bay. What do you guys think?

Also, I'm a little worried about having tried to start the car several times with those frayed wires touching eacother. I heard some weird clicking noises. Is there a possibility of having damaged anything, like the ECU? Is there a fuse somewhere that would blow first?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,818 Posts
ssearles said:
Also, I'm a little worried about having tried to start the car several times with those frayed wires touching eacother. I heard some weird clicking noises. Is there a possibility of having damaged anything, like the ECU? Is there a fuse somewhere that would blow first?
Sounds like a plan, problem is the blower and associated ducts will probably be in your way. Keep trying. Remember you can get those wire strippers which require little clearance to strip a wire. As long as you can get about 1/2" of the wire, you can strip it. Then use a barrel crimp connector. You won't really know if you've blown anything until you get everything fixed and try to start it. Most likely any clicking you hear is relays.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just remembered when I still had the battery in and the key in the ACC on position, amongst all the clicking noise I heard kind of a muffled, deep bang that sounded like it came from the oil pan area.

The thought just occurred to me that capacitors can explode, so now I'm worried that I blew up a capactior on the ECU. But there was no smoke and no smell coming from that area, and the noise didn't quite sound like it came from there, so I'm inclined to think that's not what I heard....but it leaves me wondering what else it could have been.

If it was a capacitor exploding it would smell even now still wouldn't it (I hope)? I'm just worried I will fix my wiring problems only to find my car still won't start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Bradikus7 said:
Well I'm in marion if you cant get that wiring problem fixed, I'd be willing to take the dsm off your hands lol. But seriously, anyway you could get some pics up on here?
Pics of the car in general or pics of my nightmare of a wiring problem?

Red1991TSi and everyone else, I appreciate all your fast replies. I have at least been able to calm down about it now. It's good to not feel alone with problems such as this.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well guys, thanks for all the input, and I'm very relieved to say that I got things fixed up and she runs. I haven't driven anywhere yet but there are no signs of any trouble so far.

What a nightmare of a wiring problem though. I probably spent about 8 hours repairing the damage. I had to remove a bunch of crap to get to the wires in the first place, then pull the bundle upwards with a belt and secure it, and still there was so little space to get my hand to where the damage was I had to go out and buy miniature wire strippers. There was so little room for error that if I screwed up the stripping just once I would have been out of wire to work with. Crimping the bridges on was another adventure, one which I wish upon nobody to ever have to do. Now I just have to pray that those bridge connectors hold through all the weather and vibration.

Thankfully, the deep bang that I heard was the battery charger blowing up. I found that out today. I had it hooked to the battery while the frayed wires were touching eachother (obviously before I knew about the frayed wires) and by some miracle nothing in the car appears to have fried (fingers crossed).

It is beyond me how none of the fuses even blew and the battery was unharmed, but the battery charger exploded. I had the battery tested at Advance Auto today to be safe and it's putting out 100% CCA's at 5+ years old and the abuse I put it through. Go Optima!
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top