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Discussion Starter #1
hey i am having a roll cage fabbed up and need to know some specs:
what metal/grade is used?
how big of a pipe?
how many points and where does it have to attach to the frame?
what are the track requirements for a cage?
what else should i know before i have one made?
 

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I'm currently researching the same thing...:D

Hoop 6" behind driver's head, maximum.
The hoop's rear braces need to be mounted within 5" of the driver's head too, I believe.
1.75" O.D. x .118" mild steel OR .083" 4130 Chrome Moly tubing
6" square .125" steel mounting plates welded in (which I understand is actually easier than bolting them in.)
6 points
Sidebar needs to cross between shoulder and elbow with your arms down
Crossbar behind seat can curve some for extra seat clearance.

http://www.chassisengineering.com/ makes a decent generically precut cage for our cars that you'll just need to cut exactly to fit and have welded up. $160 I believe and they can do CM for about $330. That price doesn't include swing-outs for the doors either.

Mild steel actually offers better protection in a multiple rollover crash. And the CM only saves you about 20lbs for a six point cage.

I have an appointment with my local welder here on Monday to talk price about him welding one of these in for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
how do i mount the 6" mounting plates? do i have to cut part of the floor out to get to the frame? or can i weld it to the floor?
 

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eyebrowski said:
how do i mount the 6" mounting plates? do i have to cut part of the floor out to get to the frame? or can i weld it to the floor?
The 6" plates are to weld to the floor. If you weld the plates to the frame they can be smaller. Maybe 4" but not exactly positive on the size.
That 6" allows for better dispertion of stress over the mounting point.
 

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From the cages i've seen, nobody cuts out and mount directly to the frame (not even sure if that's possible on our cars). They just weld those 6" squares to the floor (after lots and lots of cleaning) and weld the bars directly onto them.
 

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just buy one from auto power.

11.99 or faster you have to have at least 4 point.
10.99 or faster i believe you have to have a door bar.

A valid state driver's license is required for all drivers.
All drivers are required to wear long pants, a shirt with sleeves (no tank tops) , and closed toe shoes (no sandals).
All vehicles are required to have at least one functional taillight.
Drivers in cars running 13.99 (8.59) seconds or quicker, and all dune buggy type vehicles runnning 14.00 (8.60) and slower are required to wear a helmet meeting SNELL 85, 90, 95 or SFI 31.1, 31.2, 41.1, or 41.2 Specs…Effective 1/1/2002 SNELL 85 helmets will be prohibited.
Drivers running 10.00 (6.40) to 11.99 (7.49) must wear a jacket meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1.
Drivers running 9.99 (6.39) to 7.50 (4.50) or any vehicle exceeding 135 mph are required to wear a jacket and pants meeting SFI Spec 3.2A/5 and gloves meeting SFI Spec 3.3/1.
A valid NHRA Competition license is required for any vehicle running 9.99 (6.39) or quicker.
All motorcycle riders are required to wear a full face helmet meeting above Specs, leather jacket, leather boots/shoes above the ankle, and leather gloves. Full all leathers or SFI Spec 40.1/2 suit is mandatory on all motorcycles running 120 mph or faster.
A seat belt is mandatory in all cars. A three inch driver restraint system meeting SFI Spec 16.1 is mandatory in all cars running 11.99 (7.49) or quicker, and in convertibles running 13.99 (8.59) or quicker and all dune buggy type vehicles.
A roll bar is required on all cars running 11.00 (7.00) to 11.99 (7.49) and in convertibles running 11.00 to 13.99 and in all dune buggy type vehicles running 12.00 and slower. See the NHRA Rule Book for more detailed information.
A roll cage is mandatory in all cars running 10.99 (6.99) and quicker or any car exceeding 135 mph. See NHRA Rule Book for more information.
A driveshaft loop is required on all cars running 13.99 (8.59) seconds and quicker, except vehicles running 13.00 and slower equipped with street tires.
 

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Van said:
I'm currently researching the same thing...:D

http://www.chassisengineering.com/ makes a decent generically precut cage for our cars that you'll just need to cut exactly to fit and have welded up. I have an appointment with my local welder here on Monday to talk price about him welding one of these in for me.
Vern- once you install will you be doing a review? Thanks- just trying to get a feel for how much modding of the 6 pt kit will be needed.

Joe
 

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I know that this is an old thread, but I have dug up some new valuable info. This is a link to the NHRA roll cage regulations. Enjoy
 

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Mine is for SCCA, not NHRA. It is Chromoly and less than 40 LBs total...................... :)

 

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Very nice TNOMUD. However I'm still not happy with you trying to pawn that beauty of yours off :mad: .
 

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Hey, back from the dead.

im lookin to put a 6 point cage in a 1G AWD... not sure what year, cuz i havent even bought the car yet. just to give you an idea what im planning on doing;

1G shell + 92 AWD drive train - Roof - hatch - rear seats + 6 point roll cage = :cool:

its something ive wanted to do for a while and i know i can do it. i just need to make sure that the car doesnt collapse in on itself when the roof is taken off. during the transformation the car will actually be welded to a jig (that has to be fabbed up) so that the chassis doesnt bend when the roof is gone, but obviously i cant drive the car if its on a jig. so naturally, i am going to put a roll cage/back bone in the car. im just trying to figure out the best points to tie the front of the car into the roll cage. i was actually wanting to tie the down tubes right into the "crotch" of where the firewall meets the floor pan at the base of the dead pedal. but, im not sure if it would be better to move it further up the fire wall a few inches so that it would be mounted where the center of the dead pedal would be or even further down, on the floor where Tom Stangl's down tubes mount, on the floor in front of the gas door/trunk release latchs.

the main hoop will be mounted where they always are, of course. im thinking i might want to tie in the diagonal corners of the hoop, like from the driver's side top corner to the passengerside floorboard corner. this way, i can avoid ANY amount of flex that is similar to the open-cardboard-box symptom. a the typical horizontal cross brace that joins the 2 sides of the main hoop behind the driver's head is a good way to control this, but the diagonal cross brace would be the ultimate way to eliminate this type of flex.

as for the rear down tubes, im thinking mounting them to the strut towers is still the best point of attachment. the strut towers seem to be the biggest point of stress being transfered from the suspension system to the chassis. if necessary, i could weld up a cross brace that joins the top of the driver's side strut tower top to the point where the passenger side strut tower meets the trunk, welded to 1/8" thick plates that would be welded to the sheet metal. and then another cross brace running from the passenger side strut top to the driver side strut tower where it meets the trunk floor... effectivley making an "X".... and then maybe gusseting the cross point where the 2 bars intersect.

think the top-less chassis would be stiff enough to keep it from collapsing in on itself then?

thanks
Chris bell "open to suggestions"
 

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I don't know if anyone mentioned this yet, but the Autopower rollcage is not NHRA approved. It is a bolt on application. I suppose if you welded it in and the specs are right it could pass, but then it would not be SCCA approved for some classes. As far as the 6in plates. You have to beat the crap out of them and get them to conform to the car. You can't really weld them flat. I'm still working on parts of my rollcage, and it's been almost half a year.
 
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