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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been reading into this "crankwalk" problem. My question is this: Does crankwalk affect just the 2g *turbo* cars, or all 2gs?

A concerned Talon owner,
-Jake
 

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yes, just the 2g turbo models, the non-turbo's have a neon engine in them....totally different engine ;)

bill

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95 tsi-awd
91 tsi-fwd
95 civic turbo
82 gti
 

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in addition, is it primarily only *some* years of the 2g's? I've seen a lot about crankwalk in 95-7 cars, but nothing about 98 and 99's...anything to add?
 

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i have seen a 96 and a 99 that had cw. i have even heard from people that replaced thier blocks and had cw again(twice), and 1 instance where a guy in i believe florida with a 98 had cw 3 different times with three different blocks that was replaced by the dealer each time :( if it happens to me i think i'll use a 1g block instead of a 2g.

bill

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95 tsi-awd
91 tsi-fwd
95 civic turbo
82 gti
 

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What are the symptoms of crankwalk???

Is it for sure that every 2g will have crankwalk???

Don't want to void my warranty with a 16G cause I have to fix a $3000 problem out of my pocket.



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Hmm...lets see, symptoms of crankwalk:

1.Fast ticking noise when you push in the clutch (it's also RPM sensitive)

2.After making a hard left turn, the clutch pedal loses hydraulic pressure and won't come back out unless you pull it back out with your foot.

3.Shifting is hard at random times.

These are all the symptoms I experienced. I've heard that sometimes the car idles rough and even stalls out, but this is in more extreme cases. Thanks Mitsubishi!
 

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The fast clicking noise while depressing the clutch is a dead give away. It is not on all 2Gs so it's a hit or miss thing. I had it cost 800 plus to fix. It's not covered under any recalls and most dealers won't acknowledge knowing anything about it. If you have it get it fixed cause it can lead to a serious problem and is life threatening.

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NYCCDSM
97 Black GSX
 

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Damn. I was hoping with a newer 2g I might be able to avoid the problem.

I'm seriously at a loss on what to do here... I don't have the car yet, but I sure as hell want one, but not if it's going to cost me $4K to fix AFTER I buy it :-(
 

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If the factory bearings are what go out that lead to crankwalk, why have Mitsu replace them with the same factory bearings????

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http://www.geocities.com/mospeed9844
Akimoto Air Fitler
GReddy BOV
GReddy Intercooler Piping
GReddy Cat-Back
GReddy Profec B
GReddy Boost and EGT Gauge
Autometer Air/Fuel Meter
Front and Rear Strut Bars
 

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95GS-Ter said:
Hmm...lets see, symptoms of crankwalk:

2.After making a hard left turn, the clutch pedal loses hydraulic pressure and won't come back out unless you pull it back out with your foot.

What exactly do you mean by this? Do you mean after making a hard left turn quickly step on the clutch and switch gears, or do you mean get on the clutch during the turn?
 

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He means the clutch gets stuck to the floor when turning and pressing the clutch in at the same time. Then the only way it'll pup back up is by pushing it back up manually.
We all know that automatic 2gs turbos rearely get crank walk. So it might be caused by the higher load on the bearings from the clutch. If it was an oil flow problem wouldn't the bearings also go bad in an automatic just as often? It makes more since that the bearings might be weak and just can't handle a clutch sometimes. But it's also weird that if all the bearigns on 2gs are weak. Then why does crank walk only happens to some cars? There's just to many varibles and reasons as to what it could be. It just so random. A heavy modded 2g can probably get no CW and suddenly a stock car can get it while it's alsmost new. And what's really strange is that even some automatics have had it. Automatics have no side loads on the bearing so how could it ever it into the side of bearing so bad is a total mistery to me. And then there are the cars that seem to get crank walk with low mile engines and keep getting it non stop no matter how many new engines they put in there. How can it be posible to get crankwalk that many times considering only a minorty of 2gs get crank walk? It's preaty sad that as long as Crank Walk has been around no one really knows for sure what causes it. There's been all sorts of ideas as to what might cause it thoguh. From badly shaped cranks from mitsu, Oil flow problems to bad bearings. Of cours with that many things that can cause it sure makes it hard to fix or prevent it.
 

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I swear I have bad luck. I just bought my 1997 eagle talon tsi awd back in october and so far I have those three crankwalk symptoms. how much longer until everything starts F*ckin up? Should I even bother hookin it up. I have most of the parts in my rooms waiting to go on after winter.(BIG Greddy FMIC, apex' gt downpipe, dsm performance 650cc inj., intense BS-sports air filter, injen intake pipe, greddy UIC pipe and Type-S BOV, guages,Extreme boost controller, ported exhaust manifold, EVO 3 O2 housing, and I'm about to order me an apexi N-1 catback, and FP Big-T28 after i get back from my vacation next month. damn help me out! I'm stuck in a hole. I had a 92 TSI AWD before this one and I had Some really BAD LUCK! ANY help will be appreciated.
 

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Damm thermal92tsi. I'm so sorry to hear that.... How many miles does your car have? I would defenetly not drive it if it's like that. And don't add any mods. If it eats through the bearing it'll cause some preaty nasty damge. Grind up your crank angle sensor, ruin the crank and maybe the block where the bearings go.. Not fully sure how bad it could be though. I heard of people having Ideas of adding stronger bearings to preavent the problem. I'm not sure about how well this will fix the problem. Maybe you can find a solution for cheap. Just don't drive your car till it's undrivable. Tubo_Pwr how did you fix your crank walk for $800? Did they repalce the bearins or something. Is there a cheaper solution then replacing the engine if the car still runs? Does anyone know if it's posible to add a stronger bearing and a different crank to fix the problem?
 

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I just hit 54k miles with it yesterday. and i bought this because it is in an absolutely beautiful condition and cheaper than an eclipse. but damn i'm seriously goin to be forced to sell it.I don't want to because I love that car minus the symptoms, but it's better now than later right? so i'll probably be posting my parts on the trader early january. thanks again. BTW I still need to get rid of that 92 damn! i always have my moms corolla for commuting! thanks.
 

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The reason I asked the question above about the symptoms of CW is because the last few days I've been having problems with shifting. I noticed that I would be grinding gears when shifting at normal driving speeds. And just today, as I tried starting her up in the morning, it would not for the life of me get into any forward gears. The only gear that it would let me get halfway into was reverse and it would grind pretty nasty as I tried doing that. I notice the clutch pedal to feel light in the top half as if there was no pressure whats so ever. After pressing down the clutch I'd manually have to retrieve the pedal with my foot to get it back in the correct position. Now my question is this, Can what I am experiencing be a direct link to CW? Or is there a slight possibility that the problem can be within the clutch assembly system? I have to ask here since I don't think I'll be able to have me car towed to dealer for at least a couple of days.
 

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99% of the time, your problem will have nothing to do with crankwalk.

If you develop crankwalk, I'm working on a solution so that you'll never have it again...look for teh 4G64/63 (2.4L)hybrid thread going on.

So far, it's looking like the entire swap can be done for less than $1k, which includes the price of the engine, pistons, and all parts needed.
 

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okay.. I dont know if its true but I have heard that the cw might be a result of the oil squirters that are in the turbo models.. is that true??

and the second q is I have a 1g 7bolt engine. It was automatic until last month. Now its a manual.. will it suffer from the infamous crankwalk? Or will I be lucky and get away with it.
 

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Pldout said:
The reason I asked the question above about the symptoms of CW is because the last few days I've been having problems with shifting. I noticed that I would be grinding gears when shifting at normal driving speeds. And just today, as I tried starting her up in the morning, it would not for the life of me get into any forward gears. The only gear that it would let me get halfway into was reverse and it would grind pretty nasty as I tried doing that. I notice the clutch pedal to feel light in the top half as if there was no pressure whats so ever. After pressing down the clutch I'd manually have to retrieve the pedal with my foot to get it back in the correct position. Now my question is this, Can what I am experiencing be a direct link to CW? Or is there a slight possibility that the problem can be within the clutch assembly system? I have to ask here since I don't think I'll be able to have me car towed to dealer for at least a couple of days.
awd92GSX is right. 99% of the time it is something else. There is no reason to get all worked up thinking you have crankwalk. The chances of it happening are so small that no one on this board should even worry about it. Yeah you hear about some guy here and there that get, but realistically it happens to what 0.00001% of everyone? Your problem sounds to me like you need the pedal adjusted. 1/2 turn too much on the hydrolic rod, and boom you can't get into any gears. 1/2 turn too much in the other direction and BOOM, now your clutch doesnt engage at all. It's a touchy little thing Maybe the bolt on yours came lose. Another problem when the clutch sticks and acts wierd is the Master cylinder. Go check those 2 things out and don't worry about crankwalk.
 
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