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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I'm having a couple problems with my system. For one, after a minute or two of bumpin' my system I can hear the rpm's in the subs, even at idle. For example, when I'm driving I can hear the rpm's raise and drop in the subs as bass, if that makes sense. I'm not sure if thats a ground issue or what. Then when I got my system pretty high and I'm driving, everything goes out and my car shuts off but I can turn it right back on. I took my alternator to Checkers to get it tested and they told me it was good. I'm thinking its not supplying enough power and I need a higher amp alternator. If anyone can help clear things up, would be appreciated.
Thanks


P.S. I got 2 10" RF with a Pioneer deck and amp bridged.
 

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What size power wire do you have 8,10,12 gauge? Are the signal wires too close to any power wires? Check your amp and deck ground. Is the paint scrapped off showing exposed metal for that amp ground? Or even try throwing a new set of shielded dual twist rcas and see if that solves it. As a last resort get a ground loop isolator.
 

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Check your grounds like others said. I can hear my rpm's from my MTX amp on the rear speakers/tweeters in higher frequencies. It kinda makes the car sound even more like a spaceship :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies. I ended up installing a 90 amp alternator and it seems it solved the problem. I'm still going to swap out the ground with bigger gauge wire just in case.
 

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The cutting out problem is due to the fact that the amp is trying to take too much power from the battery and it's taking the power away from everything else. The alternator might fix it, but a second battery is the ultimate fix. A capacitor isn't a bad idea either.
 

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Maybe since the amp is bridged maybe it's not set at the right ohm's for what the speaker's call for so maybe it's causing a problem when you turn it up past a cetain point and causing it to cut out. That was the case with my old system. Had the sub's set for different ohm's than the amp was. Just a thought. Fixing the ground's or adding more, is alway's a plus. I would just buy a cap vs getting another batterie, get a optima batterie and a cap and you should be good to go.
 

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I wouldn't recommend getting a cap. It won't do you any good... maybe cover up the problem, but not fix anything. You need to start at the source of your wiring, and work your way to the back. Your source would be the alternator. Start by upgrading the alt wiring to a 4awg or larger to battery, use a 4awg or larger for your battery to ground, and get a solid ground from your engine block to chassis. Make sure you have a large enough power wire from your battery to the amplifier, and make SURE all of your connections are solidly crimped at all terminals/connectors. Make sure again your connections at the amplifier are solid, any looseness will hurt you. MAke sure you have a good ground. Your best bet is to find a spot in the trunk you can access from underneath the car. Get yourself a 3/8" bolt, nut, and a couple lockwashers. Sand ALL of the paint off of about a 1" x 1" area where you can access from under the car, drill a hole through for your 3/8" bolt, and through bolt your ground wire through this spot you've located. Make sure your bolt is TIGHT, you should not be able to wiggle it at all. And if your crimp is good, with it bolted good, theoretically you should be able to put your car in neutral and drag the car with your ground wire. This is what i would call a good ground.

If this still doesn't solve your problem, have your battery checked. Make sure it holds up to what it's rated at for cca. If it's low, then replace it with a good battery. Personally, i'd recommend the optima red top. It's a great battery for a primary battery, and it will hold up to the demands of a nice system. Unless you intend to play the system for extended amounts of time with the vehicle off (as in car shows, display booths, etc) then it's really pretty unnecessary to add extra batteries. Extra batteries will only make your alternator work harder than it already is.

If this STILL is not enough (i have absoltuely no idea how large your amplifier(S) are) then you need to look into a stronger alternator. DSM alt's are relatively weak to begin with. But you should be able to get a good aftermarket alternator in the 150-200 amp range, or even get your current alternator rewound up to about 150 amps or so.
 

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pb4ugotobed[B said:
]I wouldn't recommend getting a cap. It won't do you any good... maybe cover up the problem, but not fix anything. [/B] You need to start at the source of your wiring, and work your way to the back. Your source would be the alternator. Start by upgrading the alt wiring to a 4awg or larger to battery, use a 4awg or larger for your battery to ground, and get a solid ground from your engine block to chassis. Make sure you have a large enough power wire from your battery to the amplifier, and make SURE all of your connections are solidly crimped at all terminals/connectors. Make sure again your connections at the amplifier are solid, any looseness will hurt you. MAke sure you have a good ground. Your best bet is to find a spot in the trunk you can access from underneath the car. Get yourself a 3/8" bolt, nut, and a couple lockwashers. Sand ALL of the paint off of about a 1" x 1" area where you can access from under the car, drill a hole through for your 3/8" bolt, and through bolt your ground wire through this spot you've located. Make sure your bolt is TIGHT, you should not be able to wiggle it at all. And if your crimp is good, with it bolted good, theoretically you should be able to put your car in neutral and drag the car with your ground wire. This is what i would call a good ground.

If this still doesn't solve your problem, have your battery checked. Make sure it holds up to what it's rated at for cca. If it's low, then replace it with a good battery. Personally, i'd recommend the optima red top. It's a great battery for a primary battery, and it will hold up to the demands of a nice system. Unless you intend to play the system for extended amounts of time with the vehicle off (as in car shows, display booths, etc) then it's really pretty unnecessary to add extra batteries. Extra batteries will only make your alternator work harder than it already is.

If this STILL is not enough (i have absoltuely no idea how large your amplifier(S) are) then you need to look into a stronger alternator. DSM alt's are relatively weak to begin with. But you should be able to get a good aftermarket alternator in the 150-200 amp range, or even get your current alternator rewound up to about 150 amps or so.
:bowrofl: :trophy:
Started to bold the important parts... but it was just a slew of awesome information.
 

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ferriolom said:
:bowrofl: :trophy:
Started to bold the important parts... but it was just a slew of awesome information.
Just bold the whole thing :) Can you tell that I've been installing for almost a week already? This whole installation thing is WAY better than flipping burgers at the King!
 

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pb4ugotobed said:
I wouldn't recommend getting a cap. It won't do you any good... maybe cover up the problem, but not fix anything. You need to start at the source of your wiring, and work your way to the back. Your source would be the alternator. Start by upgrading the alt wiring to a 4awg or larger to battery, use a 4awg or larger for your battery to ground, and get a solid ground from your engine block to chassis. Make sure you have a large enough power wire from your battery to the amplifier, and make SURE all of your connections are solidly crimped at all terminals/connectors. Make sure again your connections at the amplifier are solid, any looseness will hurt you. MAke sure you have a good ground. Your best bet is to find a spot in the trunk you can access from underneath the car. Get yourself a 3/8" bolt, nut, and a couple lockwashers. Sand ALL of the paint off of about a 1" x 1" area where you can access from under the car, drill a hole through for your 3/8" bolt, and through bolt your ground wire through this spot you've located. Make sure your bolt is TIGHT, you should not be able to wiggle it at all. And if your crimp is good, with it bolted good, theoretically you should be able to put your car in neutral and drag the car with your ground wire. This is what i would call a good ground.

If this still doesn't solve your problem, have your battery checked. Make sure it holds up to what it's rated at for cca. If it's low, then replace it with a good battery. Personally, i'd recommend the optima red top. It's a great battery for a primary battery, and it will hold up to the demands of a nice system. Unless you intend to play the system for extended amounts of time with the vehicle off (as in car shows, display booths, etc) then it's really pretty unnecessary to add extra batteries. Extra batteries will only make your alternator work harder than it already is.

If this STILL is not enough (i have absoltuely no idea how large your amplifier(S) are) then you need to look into a stronger alternator. DSM alt's are relatively weak to begin with. But you should be able to get a good aftermarket alternator in the 150-200 amp range, or even get your current alternator rewound up to about 150 amps or so.
VERY NICE! ALL good info! I've been out of installs since about 2005. Let me tell you hard on the back and neck...
 
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