Stock auto 1st Gens run around a 7 flat. 95-99's run about a 6.8 for auto. Check for boost leaks. Do a compression test on all the cylinders. Check your spark plugs and wires as that could also be an issue. Sounds to me like your car needs a basic tune up.Eric S said:
Stock 0-60mph for automatic?
I am trying to get my automatic tuned properly before I mod it more. I am using 0-60 times as a reference to tell me if I have problems that need to be worked out.
Right now I am running 450's with a big 16g but only running 10psi boost.
I started with a 0-60mph of 10.8sec and it was obvious I had problems. I fixed a timing issue and some boost leaks and now am running 8.5sec.
Am I ready to move on or should I expect more at 10psi boost?
Right now I am running 450's with a big 16g but only running 10psi boost.
I started with a 0-60mph of 10.8sec and it was obvious I had problems. I fixed a timing issue and some boost leaks and now am running 8.5sec.
Am I ready to move on or should I expect more at 10psi boost?
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Are you serious??
I know my stock 1991 5-speed is 0-60 in 6.3 seconds according to the Eagle brochure and Car & Driver.
My 1992 auto is slow IMO, I would guess 0-60 in no less than 10 sec
. It even has 14b and a 3" exhaust
I know my stock 1991 5-speed is 0-60 in 6.3 seconds according to the Eagle brochure and Car & Driver.
My 1992 auto is slow IMO, I would guess 0-60 in no less than 10 sec
. It even has 14b and a 3" exhaustWhen you see those 0-60 in those car magazines remember too things.
1. Brand new car
2. Professional driver
A 14 year old car won't perform as good as a brand new car. Its not just the engine. Remember wheel bearings are probably stiffer now, transmission doesn't spin as freely etc. All these are factors of friction. I am not saying your transmission and wheel bearings are fucked, just saying everything is old now.
1. Brand new car
2. Professional driver
A 14 year old car won't perform as good as a brand new car. Its not just the engine. Remember wheel bearings are probably stiffer now, transmission doesn't spin as freely etc. All these are factors of friction. I am not saying your transmission and wheel bearings are fucked, just saying everything is old now.
After a lot of searching I found a stock 0-60 time for an A/T talon of 7.8s but can't confirm it and don't know if it was AWD or not.
I should be faster than stock with 450's and a big16g at 10psi so 8.5s is a little disappointing. I also found a post of a guy who got 6.8sec with a stock A/T but he was boosting 15psi.
My engine is newly rebuilt and holding 145lbs at all 4 pistons, new plugs, wires, filter, TPS sensor, Throttle body o-ring replace, injector seal replace, 450's, big 16g.
I did a boost leak test and fixed the ones I could hear. It still won't hold boost but I am fairly sure it is because I can hear it leaking through the valves. I have played with different TDC settings but it still leaks throught the valves. I am doubting that there is a cam placement where all exhaust valves are completely closed. Especially when they are new and clean like mine and not carboned up.
Can anyone post a link to a 0-60 stat for the A/T. All I can find are M/T stats.
I should be faster than stock with 450's and a big16g at 10psi so 8.5s is a little disappointing. I also found a post of a guy who got 6.8sec with a stock A/T but he was boosting 15psi.
My engine is newly rebuilt and holding 145lbs at all 4 pistons, new plugs, wires, filter, TPS sensor, Throttle body o-ring replace, injector seal replace, 450's, big 16g.
I did a boost leak test and fixed the ones I could hear. It still won't hold boost but I am fairly sure it is because I can hear it leaking through the valves. I have played with different TDC settings but it still leaks throught the valves. I am doubting that there is a cam placement where all exhaust valves are completely closed. Especially when they are new and clean like mine and not carboned up.
Can anyone post a link to a 0-60 stat for the A/T. All I can find are M/T stats.
My 1992 auto Talon TsiAWD is old and fuckedUltimatedsm said:A year old car won't perform as good as a brand new car. Its not just the engine. Remember wheel bearings are probably stiffer now, transmission doesn't spin as freely etc. All these are factors of friction. I am not saying your transmission and wheel bearings are fucked, just saying everything is old now.
I timed mine when I was home and kept getting low 6s.(stop watch) 3 in exhaust, t25 at 15psi. My car has very low miles (60k) and runs like new though. Is there a lot of lag on that 16G compared to the T25?
Jayson
Jayson
Did you run 10psi stock? Why don't you turn up the boost a few more psi and test it again? I'm pretty sure ~14psi was stock for the 1G. 10psi is really low for your setup.Eric S said:I should be faster than stock with 450's and a big16g at 10psi so 8.5s is a little disappointing. I also found a post of a guy who got 6.8sec with a stock A/T but he was boosting 15psi.
Can't believe no one's mentioned this yet, but for an auto, what will make the most difference in a 0-60 is how you're launching the car. If you are brake torquing and if your TC allows enough slip for you to start spooling your turbo, then anywhere from a 6.5 to 7.5s range SHOULD be reasonable. If you are just flooring it from a standstill, then 9-10s isn't surprising.
Mine boosts to 14 stock and it pulls like it should.....I hade a 300zx that boosted to 7 and made the same hp, the torque was different though!
If you can afford it buy a manual , I did the ATX to MTX swap and will never go back to atx
I did all the runs power braking and can get 10psi boost with a 2500rpm launch. The launch gave me a pretty good snap and a quiet chirp with my AWD.
I think that stock boost for my 1G is 10 maybe 11 but not higher. Of course if you put in a large exhaust you might get boost creep and make 14-15 without a MBC.
I don't want to turn up the boost because the whole reason for these tests is to tell me if something is screwed up in the car. I started at high 10's and now I am down to mid 8's but think I have at least 1 second of performance hiding somewhere.
It's hard to find stock performance specs for automatics. All the advertisements focus on the M/T which isn't too surprising.
From what I have learned so far I think a stock 1G A/T should get high 7's so with my 450's and 16G I am looking for low 7's at 10psi before I stop looking for bugs in the car and begin my upgrade process.
Valo....are you using 450's with that t25 and is your car an AWD?
I think that stock boost for my 1G is 10 maybe 11 but not higher. Of course if you put in a large exhaust you might get boost creep and make 14-15 without a MBC.
I don't want to turn up the boost because the whole reason for these tests is to tell me if something is screwed up in the car. I started at high 10's and now I am down to mid 8's but think I have at least 1 second of performance hiding somewhere.
It's hard to find stock performance specs for automatics. All the advertisements focus on the M/T which isn't too surprising.
From what I have learned so far I think a stock 1G A/T should get high 7's so with my 450's and 16G I am looking for low 7's at 10psi before I stop looking for bugs in the car and begin my upgrade process.
Valo....are you using 450's with that t25 and is your car an AWD?
with yur setup, u should be pulling low to mid 6's. Just no excuse. One again, start with boost leak checks, and then go from there.Eric S said:From what I have learned so far I think a stock 1G A/T should get high 7's
My auto just refuses to do any better when brake torquing. The turbo won't spool when doing that. At highway speeds, etc. if I floor it the turbo will pin me in the seat.Jehu said:Can't believe no one's mentioned this yet, but for an auto, what will make the most difference in a 0-60 is how you're launching the car. If you are brake torquing and if your TC allows enough slip for you to start spooling your turbo, then anywhere from a 6.5 to 7.5s range SHOULD be reasonable. If you are just flooring it from a standstill, then 9-10s isn't surprising.
Any ideas why my auto will not do the brake torquing
Yeap AWD stock 2G setup. I was thinking this over and I cant really compare my 2G to yours. My old 1G though with the stock 390s and 13G ran 8s from 0-60. That car was slow though, I would just think that even with only 10psi on a 16G you should still be in the high 6s low 7s. But I dont really how beat up your tranny is. Could be lots of things. Hey and what do you know someone chimed in with manual is better.Eric S said:Valo....are you using 450's with that t25 and is your car an AWD?
According to MT1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T (Auto) 7.4 15.5 (MT June, 94)
should be close to that
Could be a combination of tight converter and bad turbo. Bad turbo in the sense that you have a higher boost threshold, eg if your wastegate is leaking. How long to you brake torque for? Does your RPM not move up at all after 1-2 seconds?knewblewkorvett said:My auto just refuses to do any better when brake torquing. The turbo won't spool when doing that. At highway speeds, etc. if I floor it the turbo will pin me in the seat.
Any ideas why my auto will not do the brake torquing
nope, rpms do not seem to go up.
The turbo does great at speed, crappy otherwise.
The turbo does great at speed, crappy otherwise.
i dont know my 0-60, but my 0-71.06 was 9.616
Eric S said:I don't want to turn up the boost because the whole reason for these tests is to tell me if something is screwed up in the car. I started at high 10's and now I am down to mid 8's but think I have at least 1 second of performance hiding somewhere.[QUOTE/]
That's pretty retarted IMO. 1st off you don't even know what the 0-60 time is for a stock model and since you have modded the car it wouldn't matter anyhow. 2) wouldn't a logger along with other basic tests tell you with far more accuracy if car is where it should be at? 3) If you're not sure that car is 100% why would you repeatedly do 0-60 runs? 4) Verify that car is good and THEN put your 16g to work by turning up the boost and don't worry about stock times. Seriously, your 0-60 tests are unscientific and tell you nothing. Stop obsessing before you ruin the darn thing already!
Hey Bluebird, thanks for your opinion but I don't agree that logging it first was the way to go. I assume you mean using a wideband O2 sensor in my exhaust?
When I got 0-60 times of 10.7 seconds it's obvious that something is screwed up no matter what the mod. I don't need a logger to tell me that 10.7 seconds sucks.
I do repeated runs because I keep finding and fixing problems. Timing, boost leaks at all injectors seals, large boost leak at throttle body shaft seal, base fuel pressure at 47psi. Evertime I fix a problem I do a run and see if it helped. What's odd about that? I have worked my way down form 10.7 sec to 8.5 sec.
As for logging and "other simple tests" I am doing the simple tests myself and the only logging I can do is a wideband O2 stuck in my tail pipe while I drive around town. If I had done that at the beginning they would have told me what I already knew, that my air fuel ratio is screwed. No doubt with an overflowed FPR and major boost leaks.
When I get the simple fixes done I agree that doing a log of the air fuel mix might help me find where the problems I missed are.
When I got 0-60 times of 10.7 seconds it's obvious that something is screwed up no matter what the mod. I don't need a logger to tell me that 10.7 seconds sucks.
I do repeated runs because I keep finding and fixing problems. Timing, boost leaks at all injectors seals, large boost leak at throttle body shaft seal, base fuel pressure at 47psi. Evertime I fix a problem I do a run and see if it helped. What's odd about that? I have worked my way down form 10.7 sec to 8.5 sec.
As for logging and "other simple tests" I am doing the simple tests myself and the only logging I can do is a wideband O2 stuck in my tail pipe while I drive around town. If I had done that at the beginning they would have told me what I already knew, that my air fuel ratio is screwed. No doubt with an overflowed FPR and major boost leaks.
When I get the simple fixes done I agree that doing a log of the air fuel mix might help me find where the problems I missed are.
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