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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What should I do since I already overtighting a bolt on the valve cover and the thread in the head is stripped? Do I need loctite on those bolts too? I was reading someone doing it not sure what loctite for. What should I do to restore the threat in the head? Not really feeling good about it..so please infom me. My torque wrench is destroyed and would not click and the first bolt I kept going and going looking for the click then the bolt keeps turning now with no force. Really angry since so many people use my wrench and someone destroyed it. Post reply please.. thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a bunch! Just what I am looking for. I am sure I am not the first one. Hope this helps many other people.
 

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Helicoils and Keenserts- your best friends if you don't use a torque wrench.


The Helicoil is basically a diamond-shaped cross-section spring. OK to repair a buggered-up thread in a metal part, but sucks for plastic if you ever want to remove the bolt- the insert usually backs-out with the bolt. Keenserts, however, are a solid cylinder of metal with a real thread formed on both the inside and outside, with little locking kees that you hammer into place, permanently locking the insert into the base part. They are available in open or blind hole versions.
http://www.roadstarmagazine.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=233
http://www.newmantools.com/kee.htm

Helicoil vs. Keensert vs. Microdot (I've been an engineer for 35 years, and I've never heard of "Microdot".)
http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/5899.html
 

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When torquing something done on the valve cover, you dont need to go too tight, I believe 16 ftlbs is the max. What I do is go slightly tight, nothing too harsh at first and then about 1/8th of a turn. There is no need to muscle it on, its a freaking valve cover heh.

When putting on a valve cover, work everything in a little bit where its threaded and then slowly work around the valve cover tightening in sequence to get a good seal and to not strip or break threads/bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went to harbor tool. The guy offer me tap and die set to rethread. Would that work? There will be no insert..just rethreading the same thing. Can you guys explain if I will be alright with that knowing not to overtighning it? Thanks!
 

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It could work, but you usually have to go a size bigger. You would also want to turn it 1/2 turn, the back out 1/4 turn, then go in another 1/2 turn, then back out 1/4 turn. Maybe not that small of turns, but you get the idea. You want to back it out occasionally to clean out the metal shavings your making.

This usually only works if your threads aren't horrible stripped. Since I can't see or feel the threads, its difficult to see if it would work correctly for you...
 

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Timesert external thread is M10..That's way too big for the valve cover bolts.
 

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You could try cleaning/saving the thread by retaping it but you probably have to heli-coil it. And you should get a torque wrench, and I believe from what I rember torque for the valve cover bolts is around 3ftlbs, not 16ftlbs. What size thread are the cover bolts? like 6mm:dunno:
 

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keysert would be better since it is a permanant fix, if you take the valve cover off again you will have to redo the helicoil. Just a thought.
 

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They are also M10, I'd be worried you'd drill completely through the width of the head doing those.

I'm pretty sure the Helicoils are M8 outer.
 

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16inlbs sounds more like it, find someone with a torque wrench so you don't to crack the cover again. I'm guessing if you stripped the threads you valve cover is cracked.

I,4g63t, is the monster DSM truck for real? Does it have a 4g63 in it?
 
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