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didnt take time to read all the replies but my car does the sputtering thing too; my buddy and i changed the plugs and wires, check for boost leak, even considered that maybe an injector was bad, turned out it was a timing problem. so FYI u might wanna check that out too
 

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These are the things I would check 4
***retaining clips on ALL plugs NEED to be on. TPS,injectors,CAS ect....
Vibration in ur biggest enemy (very important)
power transistor
MAS
 

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Ive been having the same stuttering problem, i want to get my valvecover off but for some reason its glued to the damn block, theres a light stutter when feather teh throttle to keep a steady speed, but its fine when i floor it
my car ran out of gas before i could do a compression test.

Check out my thread by clicking the link below


http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148851
 

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Okay all of a sudden Im breaking up at WOT...

I checked for boost leaks, checked spark plugs, and have brand new NGk wires... Everything is perfect...except I recently changed my o2 sensor because it was shot and replaced the fuel filter with a OEM one.

Ever since then, I noticed the AFPR was reading 50 psi without the hose connected and 43 with it connected. I was reading VFAQ and they said that the gauge is supposed to read 43 psi with the line off and 35 with it on, so I adjusted it accordingly. I took it out for a pull and still sputters :mad:

Before I replaced the fuel filter and o2 sensor, I pulled flawlessly even with a half ass tune on DSMLink. I tried zeroing everything out and that didn't work either.

I also noticed that my intake temp was like 100F which is pretty high, usually I'm right around 60-70F

I have no Idea what else to look for :(
 

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I removed my MAF-T and put stock intake and MAS back on and my problem was resolved. Tuning was the issues and unfortunately, after almost a year with the MAF-T, I still couldn't figure out how to tune with it. Not a fault of the product, of course.

Anyway, it's nice to have her pull again.
 

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Man I've been havin this problem this problem for about 4 months already. Freakin car just jerks when switchin speeds in low RPMs or when I let go of the gas. The bad thing's that I'm still learnin about cars, and half of the solution provided here are still confusin to me. I just changed my spark plugs and wires last week, and it's still doin it. Sometimes I think it's the transmission, which Im hopin is not
 

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my car was idleing at 1500 when i bought it, then when i got home after a 3000 mile trip with it running perfectly it started loosing power one day and after 3 days it had no power. I fixed my boost leak from my jerry-rigged BOV and it got a little better but its still pulling enough timing enough for it to idle at about 500 where my last dsm idled and doesnt pull at all through the entire rpm range, im changing the fuel filter, and im starting to think that my friend may have done something when he borrowed it to make it jump timing.

spark plugs and wires will be checked tonight when i do the filter, and put on another TPS, but not sure if or how to adjust it.

I have a 97 GS-T with the 6-bolt swap with the 2g head

Off topic: Im curious as to what i would need to do to get a 95 ECU to work with my 6-bolt
 

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my car dnt idle well meaning it kinda stutters or wants to die..nu plugs wires ,,but in my logger the timing goes up abt 45 deg by 4k..i losses power need help..
 

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colonelfox said:
Well I figured I should put my problem in here too seeing as how it's pretty much grounded my 2G's fun factor for a while now (and I've dumped close to a grand to repair it with no luck).
I've had the stutter for nearly a year. It started out very mild and only under boost or heavy load, but has progressed to the point that I'm considering taking the car to a mechanic which I never do. Everytime I think it's fixed, it comes back. I've replaced everything in the engine that can obviously and even theoretically cause a hesitation. Sensors, plugs, the entire ignition system, fuel pump, and filter, even new injectors. Had the ECU checked out, MAS tested. Anything I could think of. New wires (which replaced magnacores with maybe 10K on them) seemed to help the most as I got a few weeks of problem free driving before it started again.
Now it's gotten so bad that once the engine is at or near operating temp, any rev over 2800 RPM's will cause the stutter, the check engine light pops on and it won't go away until the car comes to almost a complete stop (sometimes completely stopping is the only way to fix it). Simply backing off the throttle a little used to make it go away. My EGT's will drop dramatically from 1500-1600 to as low as 1100-1000 degrees (she idles around 900 :eek: ) , and the car acts as if it's running on 2 cylinders. The RPM's will jitter around a bit, and it slows down with little chance of gaining speed at a usable rate. It's not a slipping clutch though. The chevy celebrity I had as a first car could out accelerate it by leaps and bounds.
From a cold start with the engine below temp, it'll pull hard as hell like it should. Once that temp guage comes up though, the stutter is guaranteed to eventually kick in if the car is revved. In some cases I can't even build more than a few PSI of boost under the stutter, but there's no boost leak whatsoever. Probably caused by the lack of heat and exhaust from a misfiring cylinder I'm guessing. I even checked for leaks when the engine was hot hoping maybe a seal or gasket was leaking when hot but no difference there.
I just read that magnacore article, and I know that I have a small oil leak inside the #4 cylinder even after a spark plug gasket swap and my engine bay has on occasion been wet in the morning when I don't park it in the garage. Anyone else have the problem magnacore described? I'm going to take a look at my wires to see if there's any arcing now, and I'll be super pissed if that's my problem (2 sets already at $75 a set :mad: ).
Since I seem to have a very extreme case of stuttering I'll keep my findings (if any) posted here in case anyone else experiences the nightmare I have.

im very interested in your findings, i have the same problem as you, im going to change my oil tommarro and il post if that works, someone up above said it does so il try that, if not then im going to try wires, il keep posted also
 

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I changed my oil, i found i had a small oil leak but i fixed that to, it did nothing for the stutter, so i changed my wires and checked all my plugs, and that did not work.. anyone let me know what else i can try...
 

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Ok i have a 2g talon tsi awd manual and it stutters underboost i have no leaks, funny thing is if its in neutral it will rev to 7 grand like theres no tomorrow but if its underload it stutters like heck if anybody else has this problem let me know what u did to fix it please i want to drive it again.
 

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colonelfox said:
Well I figured I should put my problem in here too seeing as how it's pretty much grounded my 2G's fun factor for a while now (and I've dumped close to a grand to repair it with no luck).
I've had the stutter for nearly a year. It started out very mild and only under boost or heavy load, but has progressed to the point that I'm considering taking the car to a mechanic which I never do. Everytime I think it's fixed, it comes back. I've replaced everything in the engine that can obviously and even theoretically cause a hesitation. Sensors, plugs, the entire ignition system, fuel pump, and filter, even new injectors. Had the ECU checked out, MAS tested. Anything I could think of. New wires (which replaced magnacores with maybe 10K on them) seemed to help the most as I got a few weeks of problem free driving before it started again.
Now it's gotten so bad that once the engine is at or near operating temp, any rev over 2800 RPM's will cause the stutter, the check engine light pops on and it won't go away until the car comes to almost a complete stop (sometimes completely stopping is the only way to fix it). Simply backing off the throttle a little used to make it go away. My EGT's will drop dramatically from 1500-1600 to as low as 1100-1000 degrees (she idles around 900 :eek: ) , and the car acts as if it's running on 2 cylinders. The RPM's will jitter around a bit, and it slows down with little chance of gaining speed at a usable rate.

.
I have the same problem
 

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Hey dude word of advice from personal experience, check to see if you have a recall on your year/model on the tranny, because like 2 months ago my car would stutter when i give it hella gas, and when it went to shift, it would stutter, turned out that there was a recal on the transfercase. So i took it to a chrysler dealer, they told me to go to mitsu, so i did and they replaced my transfercase and its still underwarranty so yea go get it checked out :)
 

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I had a plug wire that was loose where it plugs into the coil pack. It popped off while I was sitting at a stop light. These plug wires had maybe 50 miles on them. I Tried crushing the connecting pin inside the wire a bit to help it fit tighter and that fixed the wire from popping off but I still had studder under a load because wire connecting pin was vibrating around a bit. Replaced those new OE wires with Magnecore wires and no trouble since.
 

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hey guys...my problem is that when i go WOT and boost kicks in the car stutters / hesitates like its misfiring i guess, not really sure what misfiring feels like. however if i give it a stady ammount of throttle i can go all the way to 6-7k with no problems usually, any ideas?
Thanks
 

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well i found the problem....spark plugs...total $ for fix= >10 dollars :) also fixed compressor surge problem, my bov was tightened all the way down by the previous owner...anyway i feel a lot better now :D
 

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has anyone tried to clean off or replace there map(manifold absolute pressure) sensor? i had this same problem and i hooked up my obd2 reader even though my check engine light wasnt on my map sensor had a code. so i pulled it out and cleaned it off and now it seems to run fine. its ez just to pull and clean off cheap to replace. let me know if anyone tries this and works.
 
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