DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i have a electrical problem with my GST, only things that get power are the headlights, hazards, int lights, and door locks. i have no idea what the problem is so i have been poking around trying to find anything that seems out of place. i checked every fuse, and now i have the relays. i was wondering if i could test them with a multimeter and how i would go about doing that. also if anyone has any imput on what could be my problem please speak up.



also just so you know i was driving down a dead end road, i reached the end and turned around and the car cut off. i havent been able to start it since and the problem above is the reason. this is just a little background info, it was also kinda of sprinkling.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
its the ones that look like this
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
so no one has any input on this?


mods thanks for the move i didnt know if it would get any responses in here but it didnt seem to in help tech either. maybe gen tech would render an answer.
 

·
Honorary Administrator
Joined
·
4,869 Posts
A SPST relay (Single Pole, Single Throw.. which is what you have pictured there) has 4 terminals.

Two terminals are for the coil. There will typically be 80-90 ohms resistance across the coil.

The other two terminals are for the load (whatever devices are being switched on/off by the relay). Depending on whether the relay is Normally Open or Normally Closed, there will either be infinite resistance (NO), or 0 resistance (NC) when you connect an ohmmeter to the load terminals.

Typically the coil terminals have a different color of plating on them so you can identify them more easily, but not all relays have this. I couldn't tell if yours was color coded or not by the photos. If it is, that makes things a little easier, since you will already have the terminals grouped in pairs.

Anyway, what you'll do is, identify the coil terminals first (80-90 ohms resistance between the two terminals). Then connect your ohmmeter to the remaining two terminals to see if there is zero resistance or infinite resistance (to identify NC or NO).

Then, what you do to verify that the relay is switching properly is:

- Leave your ohmmeter hooked up to the load terminals.
- Use alligator wires to hook a 9V battery up to the coil terminals (+/- polarity doesn't matter, you just need to put 9V through the coil).
- The coil should pull in (the relay will click), and you should see a change on the ohmmeter that indicates the relay has switched (from open to closed, or closed to open, depending on whether you have a NO or NC relay).

Hope that makes sense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
thanks alot James92TSi, it makes more sense everytime i read it (im on the 5th time or so now :)) im not very big on electronic currents and how they work but im really glad you replied because i need to get my POS running so i can get rid of it. know anyone who wants a project 2g in good condition overall but always breaks :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
493 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
well i tested all the relays and they are fine, i beleive my alternator is out, anyone know a ballpark figure as to how much one costs?
 

·
Elite DSMtalker
Joined
·
1,923 Posts
For further reference:
Pin 30 is power
Pin 87 (a,b,c... depending on how many are controlled by the relay) is the circuit to be switched on
Pin 85 and 86 are the coil.

Generally you check the coil for an open. If that's good, supply power to the coil, listen for a trigger. Or you could use a grounded test light.

A alternator rebuild goes for around $110 plus or minus $20. You can probably one at shmucks, kragen, napa, pep boys, (whoever) for around $135 or so they will most likely include a lifetime waranty.
 

·
Honorary Administrator
Joined
·
4,869 Posts
The pepboys lifetime warranty alternator is a good way to go. I think it's $135. If it takes a dump (and it will, these cars eat alternators for breakfast + batteries for lunch), pepboys will replace it with little hassle. From what I hear, autozone is the worst about giving you shit when you bring a dead "lifetime warranty" alternator back for replacement. The guys at pepboys here just don't seem to care.. they don't ask when/why/how it broke... they just get a new one for you and "have a nice day."

As for the relay terminal numbers... not everything follows the Bosch numbering scheme, so I didn't mention it. Redsand187 listed the Bosch-style terminal numbers correctly though..
 

·
Elite DSMtalker
Joined
·
1,923 Posts
Those numbers have actually been adopted by the ISO. (internation standard organization) Although not all relay manufactures label their relays, but you'll find the mass majority do.
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top