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Discussion Starter #1
I have never heard of it being this hard to take off, that bolt has defeated my capabilities and I cannot take it off. Looks like I'll be drivng around with crappy fluid for a loooong time unless I can drain it. I even did the long pipe around the socket for maximum leverage trick, nothing budges. Tried the WD40 and liquid wrench and everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know, it isn't looking very good already so I might take the passenger wheel and that damn cover off, but I don't even have axle stands so I don't know what to do, nobody who has stands is around right now.
 

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Try using a few ft. cheater bar. (A tube or something strong you can slide over the handle of the wrench). You give it one strong tug with that, and I bet ya it will come right lose.
 

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clean it off then give it a little heat, not too much though since the aluminum will heat up fast and you don't want to warp the bearing seats.

and if all else fails simply pop out the passenger side axle and let it drip out of there. it'll be messy, but it will be better than nothing.
 

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Have you had any luck taking the fill plug out, no reason to take off the drain if the fill wont come loose.

It's a 24 wright, when I remove bolts I put the rachet on the bolt and tap the handle with a hammer(the neck potion on a steel hammer). The is also the way I install bolts:D
If I break the mechanism, sears will give me a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I got the fill out from above where the Air Filter was, now I have the passenger wheel and the guards taken off for full access but no luck. The bolt is so thin and my 24 mm socket doesn't seem to BECOME a socket untill a few mm's down, you know what I mean? So it only grips the end of it and just either tears or slips off. A box end wrench does fit but because of the metal "guard" around the bolt it also only grips the end of it too. As for heating, I don't have a torch, will any other heat methods work? I tried a vice grip and the tool itself just warps around as I twist. I'm going to maybe file down my 24mm socket so it grabs the whole thing, I don't know what to do.
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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trust me just pop out the axle from the passenger side (you don't have to take it all the way out) and it will drip out of there. then simply pop it back in and you're good to go and ready to fill it up.
 

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use a pipe wrench if you have acces down ther , it sound like bolt head is strip already
 

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The axle isn't as low as the drain, the really crappy oil will lay low and not make it out.
Wouldn't you have to disconect the ball joint to get that kind of movement?

Put the best fitting wrench you have on it and tap tap tap with a hammer, it works just like an impact wrench. A sudden burst of torque is better than just pulling.

Hold the socket or whatever on the bolt when you hit because if you round that bolt you are out of luck.



:(
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The very tip of the bolt is stripped but if I could grab right down low I could maybe hold it better. It's the metal and bolts around it that are longer than the thin drain bolt that get in the way, and if I pinch my hand with a wrench one more time I will.. be very mad.
 

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Yea... either use a wrench and have someone hold it on the bolt steady while you literally kick the wrench down from the passenger side, or otherwise use an impact wrench.. Using the impact tools to get stuff out rarely hurts them
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, I am putting my car back together with the old fluid in it so I can get to work and I'll buy some sort of better fitting wrench on my way home and work on it after. It snowed last night, so I get to see how well this thing actually works in these Canadian winters.
 

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You could get just the outer casing cover (with new drain plug), and swap those. You can remove that cover with the tranny still on the car (assuming you can break those bolts loose). Once the covers off, it'll drain a lot easier;) Also you want to lower the car back down, so its level to drain all of it. Don't forget to clean off the old casing sealer (on the tranny side), and to rtv the new casing (just a thin bead all the way around, you don't want it oozing out of the joint).
 

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Do you have access to a lift? Makes it a lot easier. You can get tons of leverage on it. Disconnecting the axle would be a waste. You would, okay, should pop out the balljoint to get the axle out of the tranny to minimize strain. Popping out the balljoint is not exactly a picnic either, espically on jackstands. And impacting to take stuff out should be fine. Just don't impact it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have a jack but no stands, last night I had it up on some blocks and stuff for safety and had the wheel removed and the cover so I could clearly see it, but each one of my tools had a flaw with that bolt, either it was too big or it would only grab the end the bolt or something, I went and bought a huge 24mm box wrench with the angled box end and it should do the trick, but I put it all back together to got to work so I have to restart. Hope it works.
 

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I don't know about 90's but my 95awd will fit a socket but my 95 gst wouldn't fit. I actully used a cresent wrench but I was not as tight as I wanted.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yeah, nothing is working for me here, I have all this nice Synchroshift sitting in my garage and don't even get to feel what it does, what a waste. That bolt is just too thin, nothing grabs it right at the base and it's about to become as stripped as Demi Moore.
 

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Kanadian_kev said:
Yeah, nothing is working for me here, I have all this nice Synchroshift sitting in my garage and don't even get to feel what it does, what a waste. That bolt is just too thin, nothing grabs it right at the base and it's about to become as stripped as Demi Moore.
If it is stripped, put the box end side over the bolt and tap it on with a hammer til it seats, then(like I said) crack it a couple times until it frees. I swear by hammers:D
 
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