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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 95 GSX with a big 16G and all the supporting mods. I just recently had a low mileage motor put in and a new clutch setup. At the shop they also noticed my transfer case was leaking from the rear seal and they replaced it Everything runs good for the first 20-25 minutes I'm driving. Then....it just feels like something is slipping and no power gets to the wheels. All the gears engage perfect but you hit the gas and the engine just revs. I don't know if my transfer case may have already been destroyed by driving it with no oil or what. But the only way you get any power is to rev it to 5 k in first and even then you only go 5 mph. Until it doesn't do anything.
 

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AJ7734 said:
I just recently had a low mileage motor put in and a new clutch setup. Everything runs good for the first 20-25 minutes I'm driving. Then....it just feels like something is slipping and no power gets to the wheels. All the gears engage perfect but you hit the gas and the engine just revs.But the only way you get any power is to rev it to 5 k in first and even then you only go 5 mph. Until it doesn't do anything.
Did you break in the fresh clutch? Your symptoms point to that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would make sense but before the new clutch and motor went in it did the same thing except the car also ran like crap. But would a new clutch cause that to happen? If that's all it is I would be extremely happy.
 

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The t-case doesnt sound like the problem, I would deff. look at you clutch master, and slave. Also you're rubber clutch line, look at the pedal assembley under the dash and check for signs of wear, and or broken parts on the whole clutch system. Check the clutch fork and make sure it's not cracked bent or broken. It sounds like you might be getting a bit of air into the systeme, of course check the fluid level, and if you start replacing stuff make sure you bleed the clutch properly. Just search the site, there is TON of info on clutch problems, and how to fix them.
 

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well my t case went out on me so i took it out and drove it as fwd and it had the same feeling as you are discribing i thought my cluch was out i took it to the dealership they put in a new t case (free of charge) and problm fixed i geuss the awd must work on like a 40 front to 60 back tracktion i dont know but it sounds like your t case to me (but im a newbe to dsm) so dont take my word for it jack both back wheels up put it in 1st gear and see if you can spin the wheel with your hand if it spins i would say yout tcase is out what do you guys thing im not 100% sure but thats what i would do if you dont want to take your t case off and check it hope this helps
 

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95awd26 said:
well my t case went out on me so i took it out and drove it as fwd and it had the same feeling as you are discribing i thought my cluch was out i took it to the dealership they put in a new t case (free of charge) and problm fixed i geuss the awd must work on like a 40 front to 60 back tracktion i dont know but it sounds like your t case to me (but im a newbe to dsm) so dont take my word for it jack both back wheels up put it in 1st gear and see if you can spin the wheel with your hand if it spins i would say yout tcase is out what do you guys thing im not 100% sure but thats what i would do if you dont want to take your t case off and check it hope this helps
The stock viscous coupling distributes power in a 50/50 ratio when there is a speed difference between the front and rear. Driving around with the transfer case off can nuke the VC pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey I'm curious if the transfer cases ever changed. LIke could I use a 1G xfer case on my car?
 

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No, up to mid 92' I believe is when they went to the 23 spline from 22
t-cases, the 22 have an aluminum "snout" while the 23's are cast iron. Some people speculate that the gvr4's were the 23 stock I however have yet to find one that way. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but when they started making the 7/4 in 92' is when I thought the 23 came in, maybe it was when they started the briefe run of the 6/4? I know someone will straiten things out...
 

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gvr4dsmer said:
No, up to mid 92' I believe is when they went to the 23 spline from 22
t-cases, the 22 have an aluminum "snout" while the 23's are cast iron. Some people speculate that the gvr4's were the 23 stock I however have yet to find one that way. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but when they started making the 7/4 in 92' is when I thought the 23 came in, maybe it was when they started the briefe run of the 6/4? I know someone will straiten things out...

The 90's were 22 spline transfer cases, the 91+ were 23 spline. I've got a JDM GVR4 switch-able 23 spline transfer case...idk if that means that all GVR4's were 23 splines. They started making the 7/4 in mid '92. In early '92 and late '91, you could get a 6/4, which, of course, is the most desired DSM.

Mike
 

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I'm not sure if the transfer cases differed from 1g's to 2g's. If they didn't, it should bolt right up. I don't see any reason for them to change the bolt pattern or size of the t-case, though, so you shouldn't have any problems.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Does anyone know what the part # is for the brass plug to fix the leak out of the transfer case yoke.
 
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