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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I would like to say thanks to all in advance for trying to help me out. My first post on the site, been waiting 7 days, but anyways heres the story:

I moved 2 years ago and left the car to my brother who messed with it while I was gone and now I came back and have to get it back in shape. Smog and just making it run better.
What I have on the car: New battery, new o2, Bigger Turbo (16g or revolution? i forgot), Blitz BOV, FMIC, Walboro fuel pump, Organic clutch, Muffler, K&N filter, its a 96 manual. I have other parts but not installed anymore.

I got the battery because sitting for 2 years it had to go out. Started up fine, but dies out once I hit atleast 2.5-3k rpm or whenever I hit boost. changed the O2 sensor, did fluid changes and added some additives. The smog inspection passed except it came out saying the MIL or something and needed to complete the run cycles. They told me to run it for a while then retest. I did and I drove like a month now, and its still failing the MIL. NO CELs, no codes. They told me the cause of the stalling was a bad Idle speed control motor. I got a used but working one and it worked for a 5 minutes and died again. I thought it was the stock bov, so I put in the blitz, worked for a few mins but back to the same thing. Its not a bad stall, like the rpm just drops. I dont think its a fuel cut.

When I turn on the A/C at 3k rpm the car kind of jerks back repeatedly and u hear a little squeek over and over. It would also squeek when I floor it, but ever since I put the blitz bov and its piping, it doesnt squeek or jerk back anymore only on A/C.

Another thing is that it never starts cold, like it doesnt warm up on a higher RPM, it goes to the correct idle after a few seconds only...

Im guessing the since i have the battery off to get change the stuff, the ecu resets and it works until it starts reading something bad. I'm stuck I dont know what to do and dont want to spend more money on what I "think" it is. =)


Sorry for the long post but I wanted to make sure I give as detailed as I can. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
BTW im not sure but I think my brother tried to change the injectors to stock ones. I had some bigger ones before.
 

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First of all you need to know what is on your own car and what your brother did to it.

Assuming a normal stock throttle, the car should fire up, idle high (2k or above) for a few seconds, and then idle should drop to around 750 and idle smoothly from there. If it the idle is low or high but constant, then suspect the idle needs adjustment, or there is a bad vacuum leak. If the idle surges, then suspect an ISC motor failure.

You hear a squeek when you turn on your AC? Have you checked your AC belt tension?

I know it has been beaten like dead horse, but do yourself a favor and also boost leak test it. You don't know what leaks are in your system and from the sounds of it, it would be your normal standard baseline test.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok so I called him and my bro did like i said, just that and tried to make it smog legal. He basically uninstalled the boost controller, Air fuel management, put the stock injectors, stock downpipe, and took off my gauges. The car was having crankwalk like issues and he left it there for a year and a half.


I think before when I didnt have anything in it, the car would idle like at 1k rpm or more to warm up then drop down to 750 after a few mins. Now it feels as though it doesnt warm up at all.

Also, Would the A/C tension belt be connected to anything to make that noise while normal driving without the A/C on. Its not happening now, but just asking.

As for boost leaks, I will check it. But, if I had a leak wouldnt it idle higher? My problem is that it drops too low once I put it in neutral after mild/hard driving. If I keep it in gear or higher gear for a few seconds after its fine. Just on neutral is the problem cause on neutral the rpm has a chance to drop down.

Thanks for the reply
 

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Elite DSMtalker
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The compressor has a clutch pack in it that will grab on when the AC is active. Otherwise the pulley assembly for the AC is freespinning.

A leak would not make it idle higher necessarily. It can cause to idle lower. It sounds very cliche to say but just doing one is a very good thing when you do not know about the system, as it will help eliminate lots of potential issues, and allow a better diagnosis.
 

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Do you have a chip that is calibrated for larger injectors? You said your bro changed back to stock injectors.... are you venting the blitz bov? If venting, try to recirculate it back into the intake until you get the fuel controller back in. My 98 does not idle high when it is cold, starts and after a couple seconds at most it goes right to 750 rpm. As for the a/c, new belts or tighten your belt and get the system recharged, recharge it yourself for way cheaper. that will help with the a/c compresser cycling on and off more than it should. you must remember that the a/c is a huge load on a motor of this size and even over 3000 rpm it will still rob power like a crack addict. good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
sleepwalkindsm said:
Do you have a chip that is calibrated for larger injectors? You said your bro changed back to stock injectors.... are you venting the blitz bov? If venting, try to recirculate it back into the intake until you get the fuel controller back in. My 98 does not idle high when it is cold, starts and after a couple seconds at most it goes right to 750 rpm. As for the a/c, new belts or tighten your belt and get the system recharged, recharge it yourself for way cheaper. that will help with the a/c compresser cycling on and off more than it should. you must remember that the a/c is a huge load on a motor of this size and even over 3000 rpm it will still rob power like a crack addict. good luck


The chip was removed and so were the injectors.
The BOV is not vented but it whistles kinda funny. Like a shaky whistle =) I dont really know if I should go hard or soft.
Checking the A/C belt ATM.

Could it be that the stock injectors dried up or something? because he didnt buy new ones, he threw on my stock ones I had sitting in a box.
 

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Don't know about your injectors, but your aftermarket BOV will not make the same sound as the stock one. Def. check for boost leaks, thats probably one of the biggest problems that happen, and its a really easy thing to check...
 

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Could it be a bad TPS sensor? When my sensor was going I would step on the pedel and the car would jerk and would not accelerate. The problem was intermittent, it would be boosting then just drop off like I was having tranny problems or something. Have you adjusted you BISS to see if you could fix the low idle?
 

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If it was TPS then you will get a CEL. For the AC part, make sure that the clutch is engaging and that it's not over charged. Boost leak check and also check the timing belt and ignition timing. If your bro was messing around with it, I'm sure you will find plenty of leaks.


^^^Do as others had stated and then get back to us with the results. GL
 

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Do you have E85 in california? If so I have heard you can mix that with gas and pass you emissions test, to bad your bro didnt do that instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
bertrenolds5 said:
Do you have E85 in california? If so I have heard you can mix that with gas and pass you emissions test, to bad your bro didnt do that instead.

The emissions test passed, so its all good, its just the run cycle didnt complete. Something called a MIL. They keep telling me to drive the car more, and I've been driving too much =)

ATM im looking into a shop to do a boost leak test. Im not good at doing it myself so once I get that done Ill keep u posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
bertrenolds5 said:
Have you adjusted you BISS to see if you could fix the low idle?

The car doesnt idle low all the time, its just after boost or atleast 3k rpm. I tried adjusting it, but the shop i went to turned it down cause it was reading it was opening too much.


Whats funny is even the mechanics are stumped. They just keep telling me I have to drive it. The machine they had even gave me specific instruction on how to drive it, its a O2 sensor thing Im guessing cause thats what we changed. The dude even said there was no leak, even tho he didnt do a leak test. idk sometimes I dont trust shops.
 

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No, there is no situiation as to where driving it is going to help out with cutting out. Do a boost leak test, NO IT WON'T MAKE THE CAR IDLE HIGHER. You HAVE TO pressurise the system to do a leak test, a visual test is no good, you have to make sure it actually holds pressure. I would bet some money on it that you have a boost leak. Go to a different mechanic, this should be the first thing they checked when it was running anywhere near wrong, also check the cam timing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
1gawd4g63 said:
IS this the bov that you are running?
its sort of like that but purple, and besides the intake tube, it has 2 tubes sticking out, 1 to connecto to manifold and the other just out for air I guess. Oh and its a Greddy not a blitz
 

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VampireDSM said:
its sort of like that but purple, and besides the intake tube, it has 2 tubes sticking out, 1 to connecto to manifold and the other just out for air I guess. Oh and its a Greddy not a blitz


If your talking about the nipple connection on the BOV, Use the top one only... The bottom nipple will put pressure on the bottom of the diaphragm causing the valve to open...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
a95dsm said:
If your talking about the nipple connection on the BOV, Use the top one only... The bottom nipple will put pressure on the bottom of the diaphragm causing the valve to open...

Right, I was just checking thru some old threads and I've noticed it was put it on the wrong nipple. The larger nipple goes to the manifold. I switched it, and noticed the car doesnt die out anymore, also I can feel better boost. The thing is, I had the stock bov on there and it died out. I still dont think its the bov thats causing it even tho its fixed atm. I can tell the rpm still lowers but doesnt reach zero. The bov now sounds really really good as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
1gawd4g63 said:
So how are you hearing the bov that well if it is recirculated to the intake?

Im hearing it pretty good. Am I not supposed to? I also have a K&N fliter on it and I heard it without the greddy.
 
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