hey bro.. where in cali are you? i have a logger but i'm here in valley.. if you're close by we could hook your car up and see about that idle..
Manny
Manny
Tuning Advice Needed.
I'm having a lot of issues getting my car to run right. Under normal driving conditions everything is OK except for my idle. As for hard acceleration, it's bogging/sputtering/not happening. I've been VERY conservative with tuning my SAFCII and am having little to no luck. It either runs too rich and hits fuel cut, or too lean and timing is being pulled/knock is retarding timing. Anyway, heres a list of what I got under the hood/etc.:
TD05H/16G Turbo @ 20PSI
Starion FMIC & Complete IC Hard Pipes
Weapon R Secret Weapon 4" Filter + Injen Intake Pipe
NGK BPR7ES Plugs ~.028
2.5" DP, no cat, 2.5" piping straight out the back w/high flow muffler
RC 550CC Injectors
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump + Rewire & Complete -6AN SS Line (Pump->Rail)
A'Pexi Super AFC II
Greddy EGT Gauge (coming this week, hopefully)
Balance Shafts Removed
Hacked MAF (unfortunately...don't ask) w/side & lower honeycombs out and screw backed out flush.
I have my SAFC at +39 @ idle just to keep the car alive! On top of that, my BISS is backed out almost 4-5 turns. Before I had a normal, non-hacked MAF and I could screw the BISS screw all the way in and no problem. If I try to screw it in now, it dies. Obviously, the removed HCs are letting a lot of airflow by unmetered.
Also, my Karman pressure is ~23Hz at idle whereas before it was ~34Hz at idle. Is that good or bad? Or doesn't mean anything?
I DO NOT have a FPR yet, I'm waiting for my Aeromotive 13105 to come in the mail as well w/EGT gauge. I always figured with a FP that flows higher than the 190LPH, I'd need a FPR but a couple of DSM techs I know personally think I don't. He's tuned 500+WHP DSMs and well as assembling a Spyder AWD...
I've follow RRE's tuning guide but it's obviously different. Would it be a bad idea to do the "blue wire" mod? It would help if I could monitor o2 voltage but I've heard that by doing so, I could cause problems with o2 reading performance. Any takes on that as well?
Thanks in advance, I know it's such a mouthful, I'm just trying to get my car running right & safe while on a severe budget. I wish I could find someone nearby to lend me some time w/PocketLogger...
TD05H/16G Turbo @ 20PSI
Starion FMIC & Complete IC Hard Pipes
Weapon R Secret Weapon 4" Filter + Injen Intake Pipe
NGK BPR7ES Plugs ~.028
2.5" DP, no cat, 2.5" piping straight out the back w/high flow muffler
RC 550CC Injectors
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump + Rewire & Complete -6AN SS Line (Pump->Rail)
A'Pexi Super AFC II
Greddy EGT Gauge (coming this week, hopefully)
Balance Shafts Removed
Hacked MAF (unfortunately...don't ask) w/side & lower honeycombs out and screw backed out flush.
I have my SAFC at +39 @ idle just to keep the car alive! On top of that, my BISS is backed out almost 4-5 turns. Before I had a normal, non-hacked MAF and I could screw the BISS screw all the way in and no problem. If I try to screw it in now, it dies. Obviously, the removed HCs are letting a lot of airflow by unmetered.
Also, my Karman pressure is ~23Hz at idle whereas before it was ~34Hz at idle. Is that good or bad? Or doesn't mean anything?
I DO NOT have a FPR yet, I'm waiting for my Aeromotive 13105 to come in the mail as well w/EGT gauge. I always figured with a FP that flows higher than the 190LPH, I'd need a FPR but a couple of DSM techs I know personally think I don't. He's tuned 500+WHP DSMs and well as assembling a Spyder AWD...
I've follow RRE's tuning guide but it's obviously different. Would it be a bad idea to do the "blue wire" mod? It would help if I could monitor o2 voltage but I've heard that by doing so, I could cause problems with o2 reading performance. Any takes on that as well?
Thanks in advance, I know it's such a mouthful, I'm just trying to get my car running right & safe while on a severe budget. I wish I could find someone nearby to lend me some time w/PocketLogger...
