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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well let's begin.... This are my engine mods : SBR 20g internal /Dejon o2 dumper 3" dp & exhaust/2g ported exh Manifold/Fic 650's/Walbro 255/Aeromotive afpr @ 38psi /Pocket logger/Safc neo/Keydiver 3- Set to 10.5 AFR/2g mas/ETS 7" FMIC @ 20 psi with a Dejon MBC.

Im getting a Sporadic CEL ( #25- BAROMETRIC SENSOR ) goes away after going thru a couple of gears.

Before the light comes on the car will fall on it's face ( EXAMPLE- strong jerk as if the engine seesed at times or random high high notes of Knock @ low rpm's // 3k with 30% throttle ) RIDICULOUS!!

It won't rev pass 6k rpm... It sputters like crazy

I get a HIGH fuel trim of 81 no matter what I do ( + 25 on the logger or -0- )

I reseted the ECU and started from -0- on the SAFC... I don't know where to start .
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jeffgst said:
What MAF is this? 1G, 2G?

Have you tried swapping out the MAF for a known working one?
I'm using a stock 2g MAF.
I haven't tried swapping it yet, I know that the barometric sensor is incorporated in the MAF but is there any other sensors that aid/work in sequence with it ?
 

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Code 25 Barometric pressure sensor
I hate to break it to you but this sensor is your Mass. That could be the start of all your problems. Try getting a different one and test it. With the mass sensor at fault your airflow can be wrong as well.
The other sensors in the mass is IAT sensor.

Are you logging at all? Sputtering could be a lean condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
tarantula said:
Code 25 Barometric pressure sensor
I hate to break it to you but this sensor is your Mass. That could be the start of all your problems. Try getting a different one and test it. With the mass sensor at fault your airflow can be wrong as well.
The other sensors in the mass is IAT sensor.

Are you logging at all? Sputtering could be a lean condition.
My last log's were showing .84v __ .88v up top.

I'm using a dry mesh filter, I don't get what could have caused it to crap on me so soon?
Not even 10k miles on this MAF :mad: !!!

Any ol Skool ways to walk around/band aid this one ? anybody ?? :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Red1991TSI said:
Like Jeff suggested, I'd swap with a known good 2g MAF. It's also possible you have a dirty or loose connection at the maf. Have you checked all the wiring?
Ya I checked it a couple of hours ago to make sure that everything was nice and tight.:(
 

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burnnxs said:
Ya I checked it a couple of hours ago to make sure that everything was nice and tight.:(
Get some electronics parts cleaner and clean both sides of the connection. I've seen old grease and dirt that stopped an electrical connection even though it was plugged in tightly. Also check any splicing, unless you soldered it. Even then, a bad solder joint can come loose.
 

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burnnxs said:
Any ol Skool ways to walk around/band aid this one ? anybody ?? :D
The stock 1G/2G MAF measures 3 things
AIR VOLUME / AIR TEMP / AIR BAROMETRIC PRESSURE

Then the ECU uses (PV/T = MASS) to calculate MASS.

So you can see that if you don't have the correct "P" value (Barometric Pressure) in the equation, then MASS will be calculated incorrectly. So you will always have a maxed out long term fuel trim, and your AFR's will be all over the place. If the ECU is always trying to add +25% fuel to closed loop operation, I can assume that the cylinders are over fueled.

This will lead to carbon deposits, fouled plugs, over washed cylinders that causes excess wear on rings, destroy your Front O2, plug your cat, get horrible MPG... do I have to go on?? Can't really bandaid this one. :chair:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To my surprise I took the adapter/harness that I made to run a 2g MAS, Cleaned it, check with a Ohm meter every pin checking for short circuits and the right pin out - Checking OK .
Installed it back in the car and have driving it for 4 days with out a single CEL.
Something might of being not making the right connection but my HFT is still maxed out @ 81% and get random knock @ low-mid rpms on slow accel ( around 35% TPS ) , This is with the SAFC -O- out .
My timing is set at 5* with my timing gun set @ -0- and fuel pressure is set @ 40 psi just like how I have it set in the chip.
Im going to try bringing the timing to 10* reset the ECU and report ...
 

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I've been having very similar problems, my LTFT are always at -13, my timing gets retarded as soon as boost shows up (only10psi), and the car stutters around 4-5 rpm pretty bad(sounds and feels like a rev. limiter/misfire) after reading this thread it sounds like I have a bad maf :D I'm just really happy that this might be the end to my problems my new/used but working maf is due in any day now (no more 15mpg?) I havent seen a barometer code pop up yet but I do get a fuel trim malfunction code (p0175?) Sorry to take up post space without any help to the OP but I was just about to make my own thread when I found this one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
sittingduck said:
....... Sorry to take up post space without any help to the OP but I was just about to make my own thread when I found this one.
+10 on Searching :tree:
A big air leak could cause bad MPG and a rich condition causing you to sputter.
So check that before rushing into a MAF...
 

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Yeah I don't think you can go by the link reading for voltage to sensors because I'm pretty sure it would be reading that from the ECU and not the wire connector at the sensor itself, leaving the whole harness unmonitored. I may be wrong though just my thinking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
flexnuts02 said:
Yeah I don't think you can go by the link reading for voltage to sensors because I'm pretty sure it would be reading that from the ECU and not the wire connector at the sensor itself, leaving the whole harness unmonitored. I may be wrong though just my thinking.

Buddhalux said:
Just for shits n giggles do a boost leak check.
Who are you guys QOUTE ing??
 

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Flexnuts02 is replying to you checking your wiring. He is saying you should check it all the way back to the ecu not at just the jumper. Buddhaulx is saying do a boost leak if you havent already. Hes isnt quoting just putting in some helpful info. A boost leak is always a good thing to do when having some tuning issues.
 
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