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What's the first question everyone asks when they get a DSM? How can I make XXX horsepower? Generally it's somewhere between 300 and 400 and the answers are always almost completely the same. You can't really be a dick since they proably don't know about vfaq or how to use the search button. I'm so sick of typing the same essay for 20 different kids so here ya go:

First of all there are a couple of general rules before you start modding:

1.) When you buy a DSM, make sure you do ALL the maintenance you can. Timing belt, Water pump, Head Gasket, All Fluids, and BALANCE SHAFT REMOVAL is great for motor longetivity. Replace all vacuum lines and other hoses. Chances are they have never been replaced and even the newest DSMs are approaching ten years old now, so you need to keep that in mind.

2.) Going fast is not cheap, don't buy parts on Ebay because they are, in general, of very poor quality. Chances are if you buy something on Ebay, you'll have to buy it again and just spend more money.

3.) DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT: this goes along with number 2, but don't get in the habit of ghetto fabbing if you can avoid it. The extra money you spend now will save you a lot of headache, and probably some cash in the long run.

4.) Become familiar with VFAQ.com because most general questions you have can be answered there.

5.) BUY A REPAIR MANUAL: it will quickly become your bible. Hayne's or Chilton's will do and they're available at any Autozone, Murray's, etc.

6.) Be safe, have fun, and don't get too frustrated. We've all spent long winter nights freezinng our balls off to fix something on our DSMs, it's just part of the game.


Now that you've memorized your repair manual and replaced have of the things in your engine bay you're ready to start modding. AFTER YOU BUY A LOGGER. THIS IS YOUR MOST IMPORTANT FIRST MOD if you want a car that runs.

First you'll need basic things like an exhaust and a K&N filter. The purpose of this is to let your car "breathe" more so you can free up more ponies later on.

Next you'll need a couple things to ad a little more boost. A Manual Boost Controller (MBC) will let you adjust your boost pressure. You can't just be doing guesswork here so you'll need a Boost gauge to measure it. The amount of boost you can run is dictated by the amount of fuel you have and your turbo size. You can turn your boost up as high as you want but after a certain point it won't make any difference. i.e.> 20 psi is the same as 30 psi.

So now that you've read an essay, here's a list of NECESSARY SUPPORTING MODS in no particular order.

1.)Palm Logger
2.)K&N Filter
3.)Exhaust
4.)Manual Boost Controller
5.)Boost Gauge
6.)Oil Pressure Gauge
7.)Wideband A/F gauge
8.)Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
9.)Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (AFPR)
10.)Hard Intercooler Piping and/or Front Mount Intercooler
11.)Decent BOV (1g's are ok, 2g's NEED A NEW ONE)
12.)Stiffer clutch-Your stocker won't hold too much torque

Now that you have a Good amount of supporting mods you are ready to get the tuning process underway.

13.) Fuel injectors, 550cc to 660cc**
14.) Apex'i SAFC **

**In order to run bigger injectors you will need DSMLink or a Jeff O DSMchip. DSMLink is another tuning device, it costs more but well worth it for bigger applications.

Take some time to learn to tune on your stock turbo. Max it out with fuel and a decent tune. Try to get a decent A/F ratio, and experiment with what works and what doesn't. Just don't let your numbers get too lean or you'll risk detonation.

15.) Finally a new turbo!

IMO the best choice is an Evo III 16g is perfect for a street application and are very capable of 11 second passes. They generally start spooling a little north of 3000 RPM and deffinitely have enough UMPH to kick your neck back ;) . In case you don't like the suggestion here's a couple easy to install, easy to afford turbos.

Direct Bolt on for 1gs, install kit needed for 2g
MHI Small 16g
MHI Big 16g
MHI EvoIII 16g

Direct bolt on for 2g, stupid for 1g
T28
BigT28
FPT28


These mods are good for about 350 horsepower with a decent tune. Keep in mind that every car is different and this number is not set in stone. There are other alternatives but in order to use any bigger injectors you can't just slap them on. You must compensate for them with some sort of tuning device.

Guys, this isn't the know all end all of posts. Feel free to give any opinions or alternatives and feel free to ad if I forgot something or spelled something wrong. I understand this is a pretty extensive list and some mods might be a bit overkill but being fast and reliable isn't cheap. Good luck guys. Use the search button. Follow rule #7. Be safe. Beat mustangs :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
n0rthendtr00per said:
Don't forget the FPT28
I knew I forgot one of those mf'ers. Thanks! Maybe a mod can edit it? IDK.
 

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Filter, exhaust, 190pump, boost gauge, boost controller 15-16psi, 60mm throttle body/ported intake manifold inlet, clutch, evo316g or FPt28, all free mods...and your good. I think thats the biggest you can go without tuning. I ran this with my FP28 and was crazy smoking mach1 mustangs from a stop, and 40mph roll.:tat: I think thats a good plan for someone that wants a DD and doesn't want to get into tuning at all. Oh, don't forget plugs and wires, and proper regular maintenance.
 

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Ya to hold 15-16psi your gonna need a new bov. I prefer the cheaper 1g bov. Haha, uicp and licp wouldnt hurt either.





Marq97GSX said:
Filter, exhaust, 190pump, boost gauge, boost controller 15-16psi, 60mm throttle body/ported intake manifold inlet, clutch, evo316g or FPt28, all free mods...and your good. I think thats the biggest you can go without tuning. I ran this with my FP28 and was crazy smoking mach1 mustangs from a stop, and 40mph roll.:tat: I think thats a good plan for someone that wants a DD and doesn't want to get into tuning at all. Oh, don't forget plugs and wires, and proper regular maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i need a dsm said:
You are learning good, my young grasshoppa!!

PS I WILL STILL WALK YOU
LOL you need to take a look at my list while your car's on jackstands... We're both gonna be doing a lot of walking while our cars are parked :D
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Marq97GSX said:
Filter, exhaust, 190pump, boost gauge, boost controller 15-16psi, 60mm throttle body/ported intake manifold inlet, clutch, evo316g or FPt28, all free mods...and your good. I think thats the biggest you can go without tuning. I ran this with my FP28 and was crazy smoking mach1 mustangs from a stop, and 40mph roll.:tat: I think thats a good plan for someone that wants a DD and doesn't want to get into tuning at all. Oh, don't forget plugs and wires, and proper regular maintenance.
You like to live dangerously lol PLUGS AND WIRES ARE A MUST!!!!! Thank you Marq
 

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Good write up. Wait longer than the 3 months you've been a member, then count how many thousands of times you're tired of repeating the same stuff. LOL
Also don't forget the rewired 190 if only going for 300-400. Also a 2.5" tbe is plenty for those numbers.
Good info, nonetheless.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
TSi16GAWD said:
Good write up. Wait longer than the 3 months you've been a member, then count how many thousands of times you're tired of repeating the same stuff. LOL
Also don't forget the rewired 190 if only going for 300-400. Also a 2.5" tbe is plenty for those numbers.
Good info, nonetheless.
LOL I was wondering why I was the only one still responding to these posts with essays. Also, I figured a 255 would save the trouble of a rewire. They can buy a AFPR to compensate since they'll probably end up needing one in the long run, and it's not my checkbook no what the hell...Thanks!

TBE= Turbo Back Exhaust for those who don't know.
 

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Good write up but IMO a waste of time. There are so many threads like this its unreal. A thread like this still wont make the annoying "how can I make 1000hp" threads stop simply because people want there own thread and there own answers. But anyway, I guess if its stops one thread from being made it did its job.

Jordan
 

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MacGSX said:
I guess if its stops one thread from being made it did its job.Jordan
Well if it stops one thread it only broke even, LOL , so if it stops two threads it has done its job :dunno:
 

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Don Boosted said:
You like to live dangerously lol PLUGS AND WIRES ARE A MUST!!!!! Thank you Marq
HAHA! The reason I see it as a bit important is, because when running the 190 pump and no fpr, you run a bit rich. That will dirty up the plugs quicker-->less fuel ignited..lower MPG/hp. So swapping/cleaning them every oil change is good practice. (don't leave any maintenance stones unturned) They're what like $7-8 for 4 BPR7ES plugs and take a minute each to swap and gap? Easy, and never questionable when you do that IMO. For noobs..don't forget RRE's old, but useful 2G or 1G upgrade paths on their website.
 

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Next you'll need a couple things to ad a little more boost. A Manual Boost Controller (MBC) will let you adjust your boost pressure. You can't just be doing guesswork here so you'll need a Boost gauge to measure it. The amount of boost you can run is dictated by the amount of fuel you have and your turbo size. You can turn your boost up as high as you want but after a certain point it won't make any difference. i.e.> 20 psi is the same as 30 psi.
They can't turn it up as high as they want unless they want a hole in their block. You can turn it up as high as your fuel volume, fuel octane, engine internals, timing, and drivetrain components will allow.

Man I understand your want to be helpful and others and am just trying to offer some constructive criticism. For one, I think a compression check should be in the maintenance area. Also, brakes my man should be a mod to do! Can't go having 500hp with warped rotors, and other worn brake components lol! Finally, I believe they need to learn about DSMs, thier engines, their cars (weaknesses and strenghs), and engine's in general. They need to learn why fuel octane is important, what timing is and why it is important, they need to learn what detonation and preignition is (why it's dangerous, how to prevent it). They need to learn whats these parts do for their car and why they are beneficial, not just to be cool or because they are the "first mods" .

Unfortunately there is a level of maturity and thinking that are necessary to have a powerful yet stable car, and not wreck it. Their is a level of maturity required to learn safe driving techniques, and not put yourself and others in danger (ex. weaving in and out of traffic). These points along with all of your other points are what create safe, competent mechanics. Best of luck everyone.
 
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