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Discussion Starter #1
Long Story short:

Do the BS elim. with oil pum change, and put in a new Timing belt. 2 days later, start it up, realize that a piece of what I used to hold the tensoiner compressed with is caught in tensioner. Fix that, redo TB. 2 weeks later, valves hit, timing skipped hella much. I figure, my fault, get a new tensioner (old one had the pin holes outta line, but it still compressed fine). Change valves, keep same TB, change tensionser. Drive for 3 days, then, again, valves hit.....

At first I thought, I screwed up the tensioner and that caused the problem. But....now that is new, and the only thing left is the TB. I have noticed that it has been much easier for me to get the TB onto the car, a helluva lot easier. I figured it to be because I've gotten used to doing it and it was just experience kicking in, But now, I dunno.

I went on partsdinosaur.com to look at getting new valves, and scan the TB he has for sale, and the numbers on the TB in his store are different from the numbers on the one I bought from Kragen. Now, I figure that the part nubmers may be different, but the belt measurement is different as well.

Is it truly possible that I was sold the wrong TB? The TB is always tight when I finish the install and when I manually turn the crank. My only other variable is the tensioner pulley/bearing, but I don't think that is the cause of the TB skipping. Anyone ever been sold the wrong TB? If so, what did you do? I know I'll be getting a refund on the TB, but I think I may need to throw a fit to get my money for valves back.
 

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Do you still have the original that you took off? If so, match them up.
Also, did you lift/rotate the idler pulley before tightening the center bolt, and pulling the pin?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am 100% sure that I did that, both times I did the install. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find the special 2 pin tool the second time, but I rigged something up that worked anyways. All that is need is like 30inch lbs on the bearing, then you tighten it. I'm damn sure that the pin is out of the auto tensioner as well. Those are the 2 things I spend the most time on, that s***ty thing about this is, I have finally gotten the timing lined up perfectly.

Thats why I think that TBelt is the wrong one, it was wayyy to easy to get the timing perfectly, and I didn't chip any fingernails or pinch any fingers or cuss ecstatically.
 

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Atmisphere said:
I am 100% sure that I did that, both times I did the install. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to find the special 2 pin tool the second time, but I rigged something up that worked anyways. All that is need is like 30inch lbs on the bearing, then you tighten it. I'm damn sure that the pin is out of the auto tensioner as well. Those are the 2 things I spend the most time on, that s***ty thing about this is, I have finally gotten the timing lined up perfectly.

Thats why I think that TBelt is the wrong one, it was wayyy to easy to get the timing perfectly, and I didn't chip any fingernails or pinch any fingers or cuss ecstatically.
Aftermarket belt? ALWAYS buy an OEM belt, not gatorback or anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It may have been aftermarket, probably was too. I got it at Kragen (don't know if I already said that) Would I have to go to the dealer for OEM, or is it a matter of asking around?
 

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Atmisphere said:
It may have been aftermarket, probably was too. I got it at Kragen (don't know if I already said that) Would I have to go to the dealer for OEM, or is it a matter of asking around?
OEM is always from the dealer
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I know what OEM means, I just hate having to go to the dealer. They never have anything in stock, and their prices are outrageous. I know in some other states its not that bad, but here in Sactown, the dealer sticks it to you, big time.

For example, i asked on the site about valve prices. Someone told me it costs 8-10 dollars a valve from the dealer, in stock (in Minn.). I called the dealer here, and they said it would be $31.40 per valve and they'd have to order it.
 

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Atmisphere said:
I know what OEM means, I just hate having to go to the dealer. They never have anything in stock, and their prices are outrageous. I know in some other states its not that bad, but here in Sactown, the dealer sticks it to you, big time.

For example, i asked on the site about valve prices. Someone told me it costs 8-10 dollars a valve from the dealer, in stock (in Minn.). I called the dealer here, and they said it would be $31.40 per valve and they'd have to order it.
You might pay more for the belt, but you wouldn't be buying valves for the second time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm going to redo the timing again, and do a comp. test and pray that there was no damage. The car didn't run for more than 4 seconds when I heard the valves hit. I bought more just incase, but I can return them if necessary. Thanks for the help.
 

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Or buy a Gates belt. I 've heard of one story when they paid for an engine rebuild after their belt broke to sustain their life time warranty. May be they will chip in for a 2.4 long rod build up :D
 

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Atmisphere said:
All that is need is like 30inch lbs on the bearing, then you tighten it.
Did you measure the tensioner after doing this? The gap needs to be between .015" and .018" regardless of how much tension is on the belt.
 
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