[Trevor K]

I think the car wash I took my car too last time is scratching the paint. I can now see some scratches on the black on the roof. So now, I'm doing it myself in my driveway.

This will actually be the first time I've done a wash without going to the carwash. And I don't want to scratch the car, it was painted last August.

Now, I'm going to do both my cars this week. One is a base-clear (With a metallic colour) and the other is painted in acrylic enamel. I'm assuming the one with clear will need to be waxed differently?

Can someone give me the EXACT procedures I should use for washing my two cars? Everything from washing it to the final waxing stage. Remember, I've never waxed a car before (I know, strange as it sounds).

Everything from exactly what wash mitts to buy to what towels to use to dry. And since I'm doing it this week (Only days I have time for the next couple months) it needs to be stuff I can get locally (So Zaino and that is out of the question).

Thanks guys
Trevor

 

[turbo=good]

Well, This is what I do every week. Wool wash mitt, Armer ALL car wash concentrate, NO TOWELS...CHAMOIS!!, I have used Meguiars, Blue Coral, Armer ALL, PRO, ect for wax...In my opinion they are all good but never good enough. I use PRO wax or Armer ALL wax. I put the wax on with a spongy-like pad, I take it off with rocks...just kidding...I take it off with 100% cotton towel that I found at some store...um just find the softest ones you can find. After about every other car wash I spray on and wipe off a product called Meguiars Final Inspection. It gives the paint more gloss/protection goodness.

one more thing...when buying a chamoi, you get what you pay for. the car dealership I work at pays like $25 for 1 chamois but they rule!

 

[NeEmo6]

go to club dsm page and click under waxes they have
a great article on exactly what your looking for from
picking mitts, to wash concentrate, to exactly how to wash
and wax.check it out i would post a link but i dont know how sorry.

 

[egorka]

I disagree with the previous reply of using a chamois and not a towel- the deep nap of a towel will take up any dirt that is on your finish. The chamois doesn't have this deep nap, so you will be rubbing dirt directly into your paint causing scratches.

I use Murphy's oil soap- no kidding. Its slick and works well!

Washing, wash from top to bottom, change water regularly, wash with the lines of your car (in a horozontal direction- and do not wash in a circular direction- this causes swirls!)

When you're done, dry off with some terry cloth towels- like I said before, I disagree with the chamois thing.

I could give more detailed info- but right now I'm at work. If anybody would like to know my regimen for washing/waxing, let me know and I will post.

Some other products I recommend:

Meguiars Endurance Tire Gel
Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover

Eric
'98 Talon TSi AWD
33,000 miles... and BLACK.. (Hard to wax!)

 

[firepower]

The endurance tire gel is awesome. The CD-2 Engine detailing kit is increadible, and the Maguires carnuba wax is really good. I use Mothers car wash gel. Don't use any soap not meant for clear coat as it will strip your wax.

Use a mitt to wash, wash in sections and spray off one at a time. use a spounge for the wheels and wax them too. Always use different rags/chamois for the wheels, as they get so dirty so fast.

The windows are tough. Get Rain-X as it gets rid of streaking and if it rains the stuff is amazing. You don't even need wipers.

 

[skot]

Heres waht i do to my 95 turbo eclipse. Wash the car with any clear coat safe soap. Never use dish washing soap that strips the previous wax. I work in a body shop so i use the soap we have there. Just use a nice soft wash mit to wash it. And the best thing i have found for drying is a synthetic chamois. the real leather ones are no goo. And never use a towel. Then you hand glaze the car.Hand glaze is what you use right after you buff a car to remove swirls. But you can use hand glaze anytime to give the paint the best gloss and deepest shine you have ever seen. But keep in mind hand glaze comes off in the rain. So after you wash it and dry it you hand glaze. To do this get 3M Hand Glaze, and a very soft cloth. You rub it on to like a 1' by1' section and rub it in pretty good then before it drys wipe it with a clean cloth. It will take a little while to do a whole car but it is well worth it. If you ever want to show your car you hand Glaze the car as soon as you get to the show. But after you hand glaze it you wax it. I like Eagle One's "wet" wax. But i use a industrial teflon sealant on my car. Im sure you have learned by now how to wax. Just make sure to dig all the wax out of the cracks when you done. And say if your goin cruzin or somethin you can hand glaze back over the wax to take all the imperfections out of the wax and really have an outstanding car. I detail professionally for lots of show cars and we dont use wax we just constant hand glaze. so rember hand glaze.

 

[turbo=good]

The windows are tough. Get Rain-X as it gets rid of streaking and if it rains the stuff is amazing. You don't even need wipers.

I wax my windows

 

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

I wax my windows [/B]

isnt that not recommended?

i was just gonna start this topic - summer gotta look good and all, but i guess ill check out what dsm.org or whatever has goin on.

i use nufinish but it doesnt really give a deep look, but not sure if you can get that with old white...

anyone got the word on that 3 step MOTHER's products deal? has a bunch of steps, im considering, but not sure if it's just hype.

-aaron

 

[turbo=good]

I wax my windows

isnt that not recommended?


-aaron [/B]

wax can't hurt anything unless it has a texture. I don't even use my windshield wipers unless its raining really hard. Wax also protects windows from getting those water spots caused by acid rain.

 

[greenstreak]

I am not that impressed with the Meguires 3 step process. It looks good when it is done but it doesn't last at all. The cleaner works pretty good though. I would use the cleaner/pre-wax and then use whatever wax you prefer.

 

[gst_spyder]

I use meguiar's and would never use anything else.

Mario

 

[MadWax]

One comment that ought to be pretty obvious but I haven't seen, do everything with minimal pressure, excess pressure will cause scratches regardless of the materials being used. Good luck!

 

[DSMu4ia]

The CD-2 Engine detailing kit is increadible.

Yes :-D

I use a Mequire's 3-step process. I only use the abrasive first step about once every 4 months. I usually polish (step-2) about every week, and wax about every 3 weeks. For interior, I use Stoner brand interior spray, and also their window spray for my windows. For Tires, I use Stoner spray, 2-coats, 2-3hour dry time, then lightly remove the excess with a towel, etc.

Also, after I wash my car, I take it around the block after it is dried off, all the excess water will spill out of the crevices, etc and will be right out in the open for you to dry them up. I usually steam clean my interior with the same thing I use for the carpets at home, etc.

I'd love to try Zaino..but the time it takes isn't really worth it. I HATE waxing my car, but comments I get are worth it. You can't lean on my car (with soft pants mind you) without sliding all over the place.

Another good habit to get into, is after driving home in the rain, just take the hose and rinse off your car even if it is still raining. Gets alot of the dirt, etc off, so you won't grind so much in the next time you wash your car.

Any questions feel free to ask...by the way I highly recommend CD-2 engine detailing kit, Mequire's 3 step, and of course Stoner products. You can buy trial products, which is like a combo box of 3 products, or you can buy them in the cases. I have shelf fulls :-D

 

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

i just washed then did steps 2 and 3 of the mother's (glaze/sealer? and wax). car looks damn good and deeper finish than NuFinish.

scratches like ((o)) (circular scrates) on the hood are wicked visible though, what can be done for those?

thanks
-aaron

 

[MadWax]

91eclipsegsx16boy

Are those scratches visible in the shade, or only in the sunlight? If they are visible in low light conditions it sounds like a classic case of swirl marks from a previous buff job. Most times it's faster to take a cotton pad on a buffer with some 3M glaze and buff against the marks, then polish the area with an orbital buffer and some fine polish, followed by a 3 step hand wax to totally eliminate the marks. If they are rather difficult to see then an orbital worked slowly over the area should do the trick. Good luck!

 

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

MadWax

thanks for the tips man

theyre visible in sunlight. shit, anyway to do things w/out the equipment aka by hand?

-aaron

 

[MadWax]

You can try hand polishing your car, if the marks are not in your face visible, the type that come and go with veiwing angle changes, then some 3M perfect glaze or any type hand glaze will make a difference. Just remember to polish, not scrub and you'll be all set. Vary the way that you apply the glaze so you don't end up putting directional marks in the paint from polishing too hard, and with each application you should see a bigger improvement.

 

[91eclipsegsx16boy]

i used mothers step 2 which is like glaze/sealer, mbbe ill apply some more. the car looks dammn good though - been about a week and stil looks fuckin clean even though it really needs a wash.

what do you mean by polish and not scrub?

thnks a lot
-aaron

 

[turbo=good]

like dsmu4ia said,
after rain, give your car a rinse with the hose. If you live in a place with a lot-o-polution, then the acid rain will strip the wax and make you say, "damn, now I have to wax my car again." and that sucks

 

[DSMu4ia]

Especially with a white car eh Turbo=good?