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Discussion Starter #1
Alright i just got offered a slightly used big 16G Turbo and a Turbo back Apex i N1 Turboback exhaust for 1,500$ Canadian!. Only was used for 5,000km's till the other guy blew his engine.

But the downside, if I do get this i would need a FMIC correct? and a performance clutch right?. And when about is fuel cut? The guy said i would need a fuel management system with that kind of power and boost. i would also have to get a B.O.V and would I need bigger injectors?

This deal is really tempting me :eek: . Cant the Big 16G's run 22lbs of boost? :eek: . wow my Talon will be hauling some serious 12 second ass. Im just wondering is this price really worth it for all that other stuff I would have to get...and none of it esp. the FMIC is cheap.

Just give me your opinions guys, it will be really appretiated and add other things i might need and some stuff about if the stock engine block, pistons and all that can take that power. Thanks :)
 

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Apexi catback is around 550 brand new, downpipe is around 200 brand new, a big 16g turbo is around 450 brand new. Seems like a normal deal to me?

The big 16g will do 21ish or so psi with fuel controlling that has timing controls.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
According to my shop, the Apex i Turboback complete system is around 1,000$ and he said somewhere the 16g Turbo is around 1200+..THIS IS CANADIAN DOLLARS!

Im just wondering about all the stuff I would have to get for my engine to take this power, like is it really worth it! :confused:. I also have car payments monthly...but Christmas is comming up :)
 

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A new evo 16g is around 700 cdn, not 1200. And a new 3" ss turbo back exhaust is around 1000 bucks at many shops.
Start using the search button, because it looks like you're gonna need it.
 

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With those mods and nothing else you wont need any other parts now. That is if you don't crank up the boost. If you start doing that then yes you will need a new fuel pump, and what not.

I have a completely stock engine with a s16g and 2.5 turbo back and she runs fine without a big pump or afc. I also run no more than 12-14 psi on 93 octane and have minimum knock.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
terrible said:
With those mods and nothing else you wont need any other parts now. That is if you don't crank up the boost. If you start doing that then yes you will need a new fuel pump, and what not.

I have a completely stock engine with a s16g and 2.5 turbo back and she runs fine without a big pump or afc. I also run no more than 12-14 psi on 93 octane and have minimum knock.
Really? So if I dont crank up the boost I will be fine till I get those parts? Sweetness :cool:

Do you need really high octane to run at 20+psi :confused:
 

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Like some one already said do some searching. Alot of the info you seek is common knowledge to most of us so you might not get an in depth answer. In short yes you need high-octane to run high-boost, or any boost for that matter.
 

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Dosnt seem like "THAT GREAT OF A DEAL" but yes good, like said above N1's go for around 699$ AMERICAN dollars for the DP and Cat-Back. Look into RNR exhaust they have great reviews so far from my search and they are good prices (499 for a turbo back) also dont waste your time get a EVO III 16G anywhere from 450 - 600 new! Does anyone think the FP.com's evo 16 is worth the extra 95 bucks for porting? and how about polished? (any pics, never seen a polished 16) well on the other hand keep boost to a minimum whoile on stock managment or "light" managment, and run high octane ALL THE TIME (manditory in a turbo for best results) next get the extreme psi fuel control combo (i think it comes with SAFC 2, injectors, and a walbro fuel pump) at a slight discount for all at once. then hardpipes or fmic. and so on... just check out "upgrade paths" to give you an idea even though it seems your working backwards considering it says start with all little stuff, exahust, intake, plugs/wires, piping, THEN bigger turbo 16g, 20g, .50 trim exc... anyone else?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah I was thinking grab it while its hot...but i would do all my smaller mods 1st like UICP, BOV, Exhaust etc. See how its running, its its going good, time to install the 16G and get a FMIC and a FMS and go from there...sound alright? :cool:
 

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shipping can be a killer up here in Canada. If you see a US price of $699, with free shipping, its likely to be more like $50 for shipping for something like a full exhaust system. with the turbo and a full exhaust, its most likely $100 for shipping or maybe even more. Then if he gets hit with border fees, that is 20% or so. Plus the wait for shipping and to clear customs. I have waited just over a month for a shift knob due to customs. I did get a laptop in 2 days, but I was hit with $43 "handling fee" to get it over the border quickly.

So if the deal is cash, no tax, no shipping then it is a great deal.

UNLESS the turbo had bits of metal pass thru the center section when the engine grenaded. Yes there is an oil filter, but it does happen.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bohrn said:
shipping can be a killer up here in Canada. If you see a US price of $699, with free shipping, its likely to be more like $50 for shipping for something like a full exhaust system. with the turbo and a full exhaust, its most likely $100 for shipping or maybe even more. Then if he gets hit with border fees, that is 20% or so. Plus the wait for shipping and to clear customs. I have waited just over a month for a shift knob due to customs. I did get a laptop in 2 days, but I was hit with $43 "handling fee" to get it over the border quickly.

So if the deal is cash, no tax, no shipping then it is a great deal.

UNLESS the turbo had bits of metal pass thru the center section when the engine grenaded. Yes there is an oil filter, but it does happen.
Its locally actually, hes selling it privately through this shop and im 1st on the list. Bottom line is the supporting mods will kill me :( , I need more money!!!. Would you need really good compression numbers to run alot of boost from the 16G?. My cyl#3 was significantly lower that all the others :confused: .

I also am debating, I just got the car and spent alot for the turbo, why get a new one?...but its so tempting and soo worth it when i can double the boost Im putting out right now :cool:
 

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what were your compression numbers?

also, double the boost? What are you running now? I run 20 PSI on my stock 14b(ported hot side) as does at LEAST one other guy I know.

Its not about how high you can crank your boost, but how much flow you get at what pressure, and how efficent your turbo is at that target boost.

The small16g is very efficient and a great turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Bohrn said:
what were your compression numbers?

also, double the boost? What are you running now? I run 20 PSI on my stock 14b(ported hot side) as does at LEAST one other guy I know.

Its not about how high you can crank your boost, but how much flow you get at what pressure, and how efficent your turbo is at that target boost.

The small16g is very efficient and a great turbo.
Compression #'s were
145
140
120
140

Im running at 10psi man, I had my MBC at 12 before. You run your 14b on 20 psi!!!!! :eek: I was told not to go over 14!

BTW its a Big 16G he is offering me not small.
 

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hehe, yea I don't have stock fuel, intercooler, maf or exhaust. I also run good 94 octane fuel and 2nozzle water injection.

The big 16g is not as efficient, but it flows more air. Still a good, proven, tried and true turbo, and a DIRECT bolt on. looks identical when on and fits the same.

that cylinder is a bit lower for sure, but percentage wize its not horribly low. It is getting close to the service limit. I believe that is 114?

Maybe do a leakdown test on that cylinder at least. Find out if that is in order, and if not, where it is leaking away? Intake, exhaust or into the coolant, or worse, down into the crank case? Hopefully not the last one.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Bohrn said:
hehe, yea I don't have stock fuel, intercooler, maf or exhaust. I also run good 94 octane fuel and 2nozzle water injection.

The big 16g is not as efficient, but it flows more air. Still a good, proven, tried and true turbo, and a DIRECT bolt on. looks identical when on and fits the same.

that cylinder is a bit lower for sure, but percentage wize its not horribly low. It is getting close to the service limit. I believe that is 114?

Maybe do a leakdown test on that cylinder at least. Find out if that is in order, and if not, where it is leaking away? Intake, exhaust or into the coolant, or worse, down into the crank case? Hopefully not the last one.
Service limit is 121 I read...hmmmm :eek: :confused: Hope its not serious.
 

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You're not supposed to have a single cylinder that is more than 14 psi different from the others. That's bad. Could be headgasket...have you checked for oil in coolant or vice versa? Could be piston rings. Could be valves, seals, pistons, etc etc. Do a leakdown, and let us know what is found.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Keymaster said:
You're not supposed to have a single cylinder that is more than 14 psi different from the others. That's bad. Could be headgasket...have you checked for oil in coolant or vice versa? Could be piston rings. Could be valves, seals, pistons, etc etc. Do a leakdown, and let us know what is found.
Gaddamnit, just when I thought my car was getting ready for power upgrades :( . How much would a leak down cost me, or can I do it myself?

Liek I said though...The test was done on a babied engine and cold, not sure if that matters much but I heard it has to me warm, and ran hard earlier.
 

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To do a proper compression test, the engine should be at full operating temperature, and all spark plugs should be removed. Crank the engine for I'd say around 5-7 seconds to let the gauge hit it's peak. Simple as that. Hopefully your comp numbers will be better than what you found as 120 is very low.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
If this cylender was that low on a proper test...would it be ready for mods? Or should I hold up?. Hmm something wrong...why #3 :(
 

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from the factory shop manual.

"Limit: <turbo> min 800kPa(114psi) [250-400rpm]

Differential limit: Max. 100kPa (14psi)"

also when doing a compression check, make sure the engine is at normal operating temp and battery has a good charge so it can crank the engine at the specified rpm.

also from the manual-

"if a cylinders compression or pressure differential exceeds the limit, add a small amount of oil thru the spark plug hole and repeat steps...

if the addition of oil brings the compression up, it is possible that there is poor contact between the piston rings and the cylinder wall. If not compression does not come up(not a typo, I am reading it directly) valve seizure, poor valve seating or a compression leak from the gasket are all possible.

I suggest you go get a compression tester and do it yourself. That way you KNOW what you have.
 
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