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hey guys, i have a pocketlogger, and just logged my car. at idle, the timing reads 10 degrees all the way across. when i get on it, in 2nd gear, i get a lot of knock, 20+ and it continues rising as i keep giving it throttle. my car feels slow as hell at top end, i guess this is because the timing is getting cut? im not really knowledgable in this timing stuff, so can someone please help. explain to me what advancing and retarding timing is, what base timing is and stuff. and if it is a timing related issue, how do i adjust the timing?
 

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Go to the VFAQ about how to adjust the base timing. If I am not mistaken its supposed to be between 5 and 8?? As far as tuning goes what you want to see is when you step on it and reach full boost timing should fall to about 10 degrees and steadily rise. If you are not seeing this and from your comments about knowck it sounds like you need fuel do you have some type of fuel mgt?

Also you 2nd question you can not tell a leak with the logger, only way is to do a leak test which is also discussed in the VFAQ, really simple stuff.
 

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With the base timing lead grounded it's 5 degrees BTDC at idle. At idle (750 rpm) a 1G should read about 8 degrees BTDC with the lead unconnected. Keep in mind that the datalogger is likely to tell you what the ECU idea of actual timing is. If the base timing is off the readings from the log are off by the same amount.

Steve
 

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How to use the Base timing function in the datalogger. What would be a good timing to set it at, how's this done how do i set the timing in the logger? Thanks
 

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its suposed to be between 5 and 8 i believe, but mine is around 3 because i had lots of knock.
 

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also, is it possible to detect a boost leak with a pocketlogger?
Yeah, it is under the "Estimated HP" tab. :p
Kidding..

Be care ful when playing w/ your timing. Overadvancing it can kill your engine. Good luck.
 

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I believe the stock/factory base timing setting is 5 +/- 2 deg BTDC. You wanna set it to 5 at first and log the car. Ground the ignition timing terminal and set the "base" timing to 5, remove the ground and check the advanced timing (both with use of a timing gun) and check to make sure it's at around 8 deg. The logger shows the "advanced" timing. It's default setting is 5. It assumes the base is 5 whether it's 2 or 8. That's why you have to physically set it to spec. Of course, you can change this default setting on the pocketlogger if you wanna run less base timing or slightly more.

If your base timing is too advanced (more than 5) you are likely to encounter/see more knock. Obviously the knock will pull your timing and the car will get slow.:p The opposite happens too. If the base timing is set too far back the combustion effect takes place too late in the cycle that it "contributes less" in pushing the piston down ie. The power is sort of wasted so to speak as the piston is already on it's way down blah..blah..:D You lose power. That's the point.:scholar: You wanna get the sweet spot between the two. A little knock and power. I don't know whether that helped at all Nomie.:dunno:
 

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If your base timing is too advanced (more than 5) you are likely to encounter/see more knock. Obviously the knock will pull your timing and the car will get slow.:p The opposite happens too. If the base timing is set too far back the combustion effect takes place too late in the cycle that it "contributes less" in pushing the piston down ie. The power is sort of wasted so to speak as the piston is already on it's way down blah..blah..:D You lose power. That's the point.:scholar: You wanna get the sweet spot between the two. A little knock and power. I don't know whether that helped at all Nomie.:dunno: [/B]


hes right..o so right. i was at almost 10+ degrees and i was knocking like a mother f*cker. i got it to be around 3 and i get 1 count of knock...when i shift. lol
 

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The pocketlogger timing indicates total advance assuming a 5 degree base. If the logger shows 20 deg advance but your base is at 2 deg BTDC, you really only have 17 deg total advance. The only way to check your base is with a timing light.

Plogging tip, most boost leaks are also leaks under vaccuum and this discrepency will show up in your fuel trims because of the unmetered air leaning the car out. With a hacked 1g MAF your low and mid trims will already be pretty high, but leaks can show up when cruising at highway rpms on the high trim.

-aaron
 
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