[Faded]

My car runs hot during summer especially up hill on the freeway. Does anyone know the actual temperature that a 2g DSM overheats? I hit the 220+F while uphill on a freeway in summer. At which temperature am I cooking the engine?

I have a FP Green with huge FMIC. I have installed the Fluidyne, dual SPAL fans, and vented front bumper. I am hoping someone knows which temperature I am "hurting" my car. I didn't drive the DSM last summer because I feared blowing the motor, but since then I have heard that I am fine so long as I don't go over 130F also 140F. What is the max driving temp?

 

[pyro45]

When was the last time you flushed your coolent?

And are you sure your temp sensor/thermostat are working correctly?

You shouldn't be overheating, you need to fix the problem not deal with the symptoms. Did you have the same problems with the stock radiator or did it begin when you installed the frontmount?

 

[Faded]

When was the last time you flushed your coolent?

And are you sure your temp sensor/thermostat are working correctly?

You shouldn't be overheating, you need to fix the problem not deal with the symptoms. Did you have the same problems with the stock radiator or did it begin when you installed the frontmount?

Before the FMIC I do not believe I had the problem, but then again I did not have an electronic temp gauge or much concern back then. I have installed a Digital Coolant Temp gauge so that I didnt have to guess what my temps were via the stock gauge.

In regards to the thermo I have replaced it a few times. My temps I believe are accurate I just don't know why they are in 215-220F range. Also I must mention that these temps are durring California Summer 105-115F heat, uphill going to 2700ft ASE if it matters.

 

[thegreatms]

did you add some waterwetter?

 

[rabidfox]

I'm curious as well, what temps are normal for a 2g dsm, my car runs around 203 year round, and compared to all the other car's I know that have 180 deg thermostats, that seems a bit high

 

[DR.Spock]

i was told to try a mixture of two bottles of Water Wetter, 20% coolant, 80% water. it works in the arizona desert. i might see how it does out here in the mojave of SoCal. I have a new 180 degree thremostat put in, and im still getting pretty hot during stop and go traffic.

 

[Faded]

i was told to try a mixture of two bottles of Water Wetter, 20% coolant, 80% water. it works in the arizona desert. i might see how it does out here in the mojave of SoCal. I have a new 180 degree thremostat put in, and im still getting pretty hot during stop and go traffic.

Actually that is close to what I have in. I also have my mani wrapped but my lower heat shield out due to the turbo.

I am hoping to find a hard number (I.E. 129F is "hot" , 135F is "overheating shut it down"). I have a digital gauge but its useless unless I know what the "uh-oh" and "oh crap" numbers are.

 

[venom42]

Whatever the problem, it is important that you keep a very close watch on your temp until it is fixed. While aluminum heads have many advantages, they are more succeptible to damage from overheating. You could end up needing a head gasket or warping the head. Either of which will require a trip tp the machine shop and a good deal of work.

 

[DR.Spock]

yea, a warped head really sucks, but some dsm'ers doin track runs out at buttonwillow have had their temps up to 260 with ARP's and a metal HG and still running strong, they checked their compression after that and its still good, luck? maybe. ihave had mine up to 234 but i immediatly tunred the motor off and let it cool.

 

[venom42]

ARP's make a HUGE difference. No reason not to throw some in if you already have to pull the head for something.

 

[Faded]

How do I find out the actual numbers on overheating on a DSM? I have tried calling the local dealer but they can't give me a temperature either and I have searched the forums, but can not find a raw number.

 

[Minjin]

Thats because the number doesn't exist. You want to know what the engineers think? Watch your stock gauge. When it starts moving a bunch past center line, thats when the engineers think its getting hot. Stock gauge isn't 'inaccurate', its just dumbed down. Unless the gauge is in the red or close to it, you probably aren't about to blow your engine. However, if its constantly well past centerline, you have a problem. Leaky head gasket. Bad coolant flow. Bad airflow. Something.

Mark

 

[Faded]

Thats because the number doesn't exist. You want to know what the engineers think? Watch your stock gauge. When it starts moving a bunch past center line, thats when the engineers think its getting hot. Stock gauge isn't 'inaccurate', its just dumbed down. Unless the gauge is in the red or close to it, you probably aren't about to blow your engine. However, if its constantly well past centerline, you have a problem. Leaky head gasket. Bad coolant flow. Bad airflow. Something.

Mark

I guess what I don't understand then is that the guage is measured via the temp sensor that measures degrees. They have to had some form of a baseline on what the center is and "H" is.

In regards to bad coolant flow, I have questioned my pump. How can I tell if its truely working? It is my understanding that if the pump wasn't working at all my car would overheat fast for it would have no coolant flow. With that in mind is it possible my pump works but just not very good? Perhaps it flows enough to handle idle and city driving but not enough for uphill long hauls?

 

[90eclipsegst149]

If the thermostat is rated for 203f, thats the temp the thermostat starts to open, fully open maybe around 220. Put in a pot of water with a thermometer and see when it fully opens.

 

[T3/T4GSt]

The easiest way to cure a cooling issue with a FMIC is to modify the stock air dam around the FMIC. Most IC kits tell you to remove this part and throw it out but don't do it. I have been through this and anohter guy on the DSMLINK board went through this as well and after modifying the air dam problem solved. Remember when you remove this there is nothing to force the air to go straight to the radiator it will go just about anywhere it can. In my case I ended up fabing an air dam since I had thrown mine away and this cured my problem as well as fabing a heat shield since I have a T3/T4 setup. I have run as high as 223F and had tried different thermostat, radiator cap, water wetter, purple ice, DEI coolant additive, all kinds of mixes of coolan/water, you name it I have tried it and nothing worked better than when I did the air dam. Now my car runs between 193F and 196F while driving. This is with a T3/T4 setup and big radiator which means the turbo is a lot closer to the radiator then someone running the stock radiator and a similar to stock turbo with stock Exh manifold.

 

[Faded]

Would you have any pics of the air dams you made? I have a few ideas but not really sure where to mount it to and such.

 

[gota0have0boost]

I have noticed since the temps here have gotten hotter, my stock gauge reads real hot, sometime crossing into the "hot zone". But my logger readys other wise. The stock gauge will read real hot, but the logger wont read past 185? What should I read. I would think the logger would be more accurate than the stock temp gauge.

 

[Faded]

I have noticed since the temps here have gotten hotter, my stock gauge reads real hot, sometime crossing into the "hot zone". But my logger readys other wise. The stock gauge will read real hot, but the logger wont read past 185? What should I read. I would think the logger would be more accurate than the stock temp gauge.

Hard to say since each has its own Temp Sensor and either one could be bad. You could do a thermometer test and see if the logger is accurate to what the thermometer reads. If it is then you know that your gauge sensor is off. If the logger is way off from the thermometer then you know the other sensor is off. When your car read "hot" on the guage does it boil over or do you hear any boiling or bubling?

 

[gota0have0boost]

Nope

 

[gota0have0boost]

Maybe ill replace the 2 sensors on the T-stat housing for the hell of it. They cant be that expensive. Then Ill know that they are accurate.