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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was just wondering how many mods one can do until they should switch to the colder, BPR7ES plugs? Would it hurt to run these plugs when only adding an intake and upper and lower I/C pipes?

Should I definately run BPR7ES plugs once intake, I/C piping, full exhaust ( 3" downpipe, hi-flow cat, catback), and a manual fuel regulator have been installed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
After inquiring generally the same question to a NGK rep, he responded with:

"I would try running a spark plug one heat range cooler. I am going to
recommend a BKR7EVX-11 stock number 4685, which is a high performance
platinum. The only difference over the stock recommended spark plug is that
this spark plug has a 5/8 hex rather than a 13/16 hex. Another option is
the BKR7E stock number 6097 this is a copper core V-power plug which
dissipates heat quickly and is a little less expensive then the BKR7EVX-11."

Why did he recommend the BKR instead of the BPR? What is the difference between the 5/8 hex and the standard 13/16 hex?
 

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I'm not an expert here, but I've heard Platinum plugs are bad for our turbo engines. Supposedly they foul easily.

Just my .02
 

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i ran them when my car was bone stock. the service manual actually said to use a colder plug " when driving in hot climates or for continues high speed driving" so i don't think it will hurt anything. you can get them at your local auto parts store, they might have to order them but they should be a hell of alot cheaper then extreme, buschur, roadrace, etc. i pay $1.27 each for them versus $10-12 for 4 from the above shops.

bill

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95 tsi-awd
91 tsi-fwd
95 civic turbo
82 gti


[This message has been edited by 4npower (edited September 22, 2000).]
 

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Id say anytime you plan on getting new plugs, get them. Sooner the better, i suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
After reading several posts by Matt Blue (Product Engineer at NGK), I am wondering what gap sizes have worked good for other DSMers. From his post:

"You have probably changed your combustion chamber’s characteristics to a
point that this will be more of a guessing game than anything else. Let’s
think about what we do know about your combustion… You have raised your
operating temps, therefore, you should probably go to a colder plug (6 to a 7
~ Done). You also have made your A/F swirl more violent (i.e. faster flow).
This was done by raising the pressure (i.e. more power). As a result, you
should decrease your gap size to literally avoid "blowing out" your spark.
If you keep your gap too large, your spark may never reach the other side
during high demand operating regions. It is hard to say exactly what size
the gap should be, but I would begin at about 0.28 with either type of plugs."

What gap size should I run with all the intake and exhaust mods listed above, but no turbo mods? Also, has anyone had any experience with the difference between the BPR resistor plugs and the standard BP non-resistor plugs?
 

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I thought the "R" stood for resistor and it canceled/blocked out elctronic interference. Like hearing you stereo wine when you accelerate (not my car! A uhaul I rented). Everytime you have electricity running you generate a elctromagnetic interference, that interference loves to play with sensitive electronics. I don't think you would hurt anything by going without the resistor but it not like there is a difference in price so I would play it safe and get the regular BPR's.

Zach
'92 Laser RS Turbo AWD
"RSX"
 

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:rolleyes: Well, I rather use BP7ES, we’re trying to get a better/hotter spark, most of us run 8mm wires to help that, and some use different better coils, so to me putting a resistor in-line just defeats that point, I've been using non resistor plugs and I don't notice any interference. but that's just mine own theory not based on any testing :)

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NGK recommends going one range colder once you've added 75~100 extra horsepower.

The only side effect of doing it sooner though is that they will wear out quicker.

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Quadcylla
92 Laser RS-T FWD
 

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I too have heard not to run platinums. Since the center elctrode is thinner you can "blow" out he spark under higher boost pressures. I had some Bosch Platinum +4's in my car for about a year. Damn smooth idling and acceleration, but after 6 or 8 months you would feel a hesitation under acceleration. Probably when I really started to run the car harder and increase my mods. So I bought some NGK's which are half the cost of +4's.

Zach
'92 Laser RS Turbo AWD
"RSX"
 

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Can anyone come up with some technical knowledge of why not to use the Platinum plugs? I see them for sale on various DSM vendor sites, and they use them... well I am just curious cause I also need to buy them anyday now.
 

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My car is fairly new with 15K miles on it. So just because,I decided to take my plugs out and check the gap etc. etc. When I put them back in my check engine light came on. After resetting cpu and rechecking plugs about 3 times and finding nothing wrong with them I went to Road Race Engineering. Mike hooked up the computer to my car and said it was missfireing at idle. No big deal but that was my problem. So I bought the colder NGK's and 8.5 Magnecors because I was going to have to do it sooner or later. Right after I installed them the check engine light went away. I don't know if it was the plugs or the wires though. I'd have to guess the wires but who cares my car was fixed. So to answer the original post yes you can put them in now.

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inzen intake
greddy profec B with remote switch
RS*R exhaust
Greddy boost & EGT guages
upgraded fuel pump
short throw shifter
 

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colder plugs look exactly the same... now, i have run splitfire platinums, ngk R platinums, and i now run bpr7es's... they work better than any of the above.. i will never again pay more than $2.00 for a plug.. the ngk R's were special order $50 from pepboys.. the dealership wanted $90..hahaha... anyways, the ngk bpr7es is still special order here but $6 will run my car.. i am running .32 with no problems by the way, but i will most likely drop that to .30 next time i take the plugs out..


as someone else said before.. if bpr7es's are good enough for all the 9 second dsm's then they are good enough for my car

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J. Hunter Allred

'95 GS-T free mods, K&N, 3" HKS Superdragger, ACT2600, lightened flywheel, and otherthings that escape me at the moment. T-25 handicapped though. As you can see its a work in progress. Figure if i buy it i should buy it once :)
 

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A while back before I found you guys I had a heck of a time finding the right type of plug to use,the NGKs I took out were no longr avaliable and no on knew for sure what to put in it,I called the dealer after I instaled a set of bosh Platnum plugs and had a hard time starting my car, and they told me to take them out! They had 2 neons and 1 Intrepid in for a engine overhauls do to the higher mileage platnum plugs comming apart.electrodes were falling off in the engineThey told me that platnum plugs are designed for high performance engines and they need to be changed every few weeks,They told me drag racers like them and change them after every few runs

[This message has been edited by hardlydangerous (edited October 11, 2000).]
 

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platinum is actually not the greatest conductor of electricity... thats why they suck. i personally ran 50k on my plat ngk's, then 5k on the plat splitfires, then another 15k on the same old ngk's, and now bout 3k on the bpr7es's

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J. Hunter Allred

'95 GS-T free mods, K&N, 3" HKS Superdragger, ACT2600, lightened flywheel, and otherthings that escape me at the moment. T-25 handicapped though. As you can see its a work in progress. Figure if i buy it i should buy it once :)
 

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Excuse the ignorance, but what kind of plugs are bpr7es's exactly? And where can I get them for under $2? I'm due for some new spark plugs, so I might as well get these bpr7es. I'm still on stock wires though,(see mods in signature) would it be any harmful/helpful if I use bpr7es with stock wires? Also, how often should I change my plugs? I followed the manual's sever service portion to be safe.

-'96 GSX

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Free mods, K&N Air intake , HRC UIC with 1G BOV, Auto Meter 0-35psi ultra lite boost gauge, Japanese version Greddy turbo timer.
 

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they are hiperformance copper core plugs.. no prob on stock wires, but you will notice a big diff if you just spring for decent wires.. you can order them at pepboys, advance auto, almost anywhere, including satan.. but we dont buy from satan do we? :)

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J. Hunter Allred

'95 GS-T free mods, K&N, 3" HKS Superdragger, ACT2600, lightened flywheel, and otherthings that escape me at the moment. T-25 handicapped though. As you can see its a work in progress. Figure if i buy it i should buy it once :)
 

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How should I ask for them at PepBoy's? I meant to ask is what brand are they? I assume bpr7es is the model/part number?
I was also think about getting the Magnacore wires, I went to MachV and they had 8mm and 10mm wires. According to them, the 10mm won't fit, so should I get the 8mm instead? But what difference will the 2mm make? I mean at what HP level should I be concerned about the difference 2mm makes?
Also what kind of an improvement will I see if I get rid of the stock wires and replace them with the high performance ones? Like HP increase, better response, lower trap times?
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm new at this, I've read through a lot of the DSM.org's stuff, but I'm still a newbie dispite my best effort. :p

-'96 GSX

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Free mods, K&N Air intake , HRC UIC with 1G BOV, Auto Meter 0-35psi ultra lite boost gauge, Japanese version Greddy turbo timer.
 
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