Ok well i have a problem i need some help making a decision, i have the chance to trade a 1G SMIC and 2G O2 housing and 110$ for a NEW ZEX Nitrous Dry Kit, or should i save the 110$ and sell him the SMIC and o2 for 90$, and take that 200 plus more of my money and buy a full turbo back RNR Exhaust.
If i get the nitrous i plan on using it with my SAFC2/MAFTrans combo and using the MAFTS nitrous wire and adding fuel that way. what do you guys think i never used nitrous before and havent used a computer controlled WOT switch setup?
Its kind of a toss up. contrary to popular belief, that zex dry kit will work great on your car assuming you have big enough injectors and you get it tuned via wideband and logger. I tuned a 91 gsx for a buddy of mine with a similar setup to what your profile says, car had a translator, 680's, 255, greddy egt, small 16g, smic, home made uip. had the car running perfect with a 14 psi conservative tune on pump gas, then 22 on race gas. He chose to run stock/gutted cat exhaust and just unbolt the downpipe at the cat for races. The car would run easy consistent 13 flats @ 108? on a 35 shot. 13.6 without. Just fast enough to piss off STI's at our 4000 ft. elevation. The car loved the nitrous, EGT's would go down by a bunch when used. Direct port wet is best of course, but i would rather run a dry kit like that one than a single nozzle wet since liquid fuel and nitrous gas dont truly distubute in the same pattern even with the best nozzles. NGK 7's or 8's gapped at 32. install the kit as zex recommends using purple box between the manifold and fuel pressure regulator and you may not even need to adjust the translator enrichment.
Hope this comes in handy, kick some STI ass for me.
Ok so on this dry kit, you cut the vaccum line between the manifold and fuel pressure reg. and install the purple box inbetween it? and it raises fuel pressure enough to mostly compensate for the nitrous? and my next idea was
ok since it is a dry kit can i run everything as its wants me too but instead off putting a nossle in my intake, can i just run the line on down to the front bumper and buy a Nter-cooler ring with the syolnoid and hook it up to that, so when the aircraft switch is on and the zex computer sees WOT and engauges nitrous it would just act as the NX N-ter-cooler kit would? reason i want to do this is because i dont have to mess with fuel as much, and it seems to be safer as in no nitrous makes it into the engine (just aids in cooling the air) and finaly i dont have to watch bottle pressure as much, so i can just run the bottle and not be paranoid about pressuse as much as you do if it was entering the engine, also no purging kit would be needed because yet again no damage done by using up the air in the system befor the nitrous sprays accross the intercooler. any ideas?
You gotta walk before you can run. Unless you plan to go sleeper with a cutout, get the exhaust handled first. Plus, to run a dry kit requires oversized injectors, and 2 sets of tuning maps, with and w/o N2O.
The nitrous ring for chilling the intercooler is a waste of giggle gas. When you do get a proper wet nitrous setup, blow the purge onto your fmic instead.
I didnt want to be the 1st to reply because I was embarrased by this nonsense question. These 2 items should not be asked which one to get over the other. It's like asking "which should I get, an intake or tires?"
By the way....I have the RNR turbo back exhaust....F#cking awesome
Make sure you get it in SS if you have extra $100.
the ntercooler idea does work we dyno'd a 50 whp gain on a gst. however there is no nitrous jet so that stuff goes fast, were talking 2-3 runs per bottle at best. the zex in that kit is also too small and will not provide enough flow. either shoot it inside or nothing at all. You are correct about the way it is installed.
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