I just installed a brandnew headgasket on the car with stock bolts. I just ordered some apr studs so i can raise the boost safely. My question is can i just take out one stock bolt and replace it with the arp stud and so on. i think its possible and i dont want to take the head off and replace the head gasket again.
arp headbolt install
Conceptvip
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I just installed a brandnew headgasket on the car with stock bolts. I just ordered some apr studs so i can raise the boost safely. My question is can i just take out one stock bolt and replace it with the arp stud and so on. i think its possible and i dont want to take the head off and replace the head gasket again.
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aight how tight do i make them just finger tight and torque the nuts down the 80ftlbs
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so youve already torqued down the headgasket with stock studs, but now want to redo it again with ARPs? depends what kind of headgasket it is...
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im just gunna take out one bolt and replace it with a stud and tighten it down and so on
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Make sure and drain all the coolant and do one at a time and torque them as u go dont let the pressure up totally on the gasket. I dont think you torque ARP head studs that tight but i could be wrong double check by calling ARP.
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The easy way to do it is to pull all of the bolts, with the head still in place and then replace them with the ARP studs, then re-tighten everything to spec. Very simple. Make sure you have a allen tool and torque wrench to do it properly.Conceptvip said:
BTW, you do NOT have to drain the oil or coolant to do this.
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as soon as you take the bolts out it will crack the head free from the block and coolant will get through the gasket.TEC said:
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yes you have to drain the coolant. remove all the studs before torqueing the ARPs down following the sequence for removing the studs, then put the ARPs in and torque them in the correct sequence to ~85 ft/lbs then retorque them after 50 miles to ~100 ft.lbs. the ARPs are torqued harder than the stockers and if you remove one stock stud then replace it with an ARP stud and torque it the head may not seat properly. if you did not use a metal HG you must replace the HG again...
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I've done more than a few head bolt replacements and I haven't had to removed the oil or coolant. However, I do use copper seal spray on the headgasket. However, since the engine is off there should be very little oil or water pressure in the galleys so seepage in the head gasket shouldn't occur.
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ARP uses a coating on their bolts that gives inacurate tq. readings. I torqued mine to 100ftlbs even though it says torque to 80. Because if you just tq them at 80, at 20psi with a 60trim you will get head float.TEC said:
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the aluminum head actually twists and can compress wierd if you turque the studs incorrectly.TEC said:
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