is it worth it to relocate the battery to the trunk? im thinking for the slight weight transfer and the engine bay room it might be but i want some opinions 
Relocating Battery to the trunk? is it beneficial?
SpeedyGST
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did you wire brush off all the paint aroudn your grounding point? if you can jump that means you have a something of a connection.
you can always put a multimeter on some point (as far you can get away w/ the probes) and check resistance between that point and the neg terminal
you can always put a multimeter on some point (as far you can get away w/ the probes) and check resistance between that point and the neg terminal
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Re: Help!
Check your alternator. It may be going bad. The extra resistance it now has to fight to charge your battery may be too much for it if it's dying.enasnITSi said:
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perhaps you shorted it at some point in the evening. make sure you cover your posts with something once you get it in the car. autozone sells posts covers for $2 a pair. get it started and test yoru alternator. if it ran with a dead battery then the alt should be fine.
bryan
bryan
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Did you move the other ground wire under the hood to the firewall grounding point?
Check your MPI, etc fuses from the little fusebox on the factory positive terminal too.
If you think the battery is bad, slap a voltmeter on it and find out for sure. Or try to jump start the car.
Check your MPI, etc fuses from the little fusebox on the factory positive terminal too.
If you think the battery is bad, slap a voltmeter on it and find out for sure. Or try to jump start the car.
this is just a thought.... for launching AWDs wouldn't having the weight on the front still be better? because already most of the weight transfers off of the front wheels on a hard launch which makes the rear wheels do most of the work, in an extreme case you'd be doing a wheelie and then 100% of the load would be going through the rear wheels, which to me would make you a lot more likely to break something. anyway this is just something i was thinking about one day and it only applies to drag racing so...
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I believe we want better weight distrobution for better handling, not launching. I wanted it for the space savings.
bryan
bryan
The added weight in the rear help to gain a little more traction for launching. I've been getting a lot of rear wheel hop when I launch at the track lately and I haven't figured out why its doing it now and not before so much. I'm also pushing more power than before to though. But the main reason I moved it to the back was because I needed the extra room to mount the solenoids for my nitrous setup that I got. That was the only way I could do it.
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ok im going to relocate my battery a soon as my battery box comes in. Tell me if I got this right. Bolt the box in the RR portion of the trunk, run a 2 gauge cable from the + cable under the hood to the + terminal, attach the - cable under the hood to the firewall, ground the battery to the metal in the trunk.
I do have one question how do you splice the 2 gauge cable to the + cable under the hood?
I do have one question how do you splice the 2 gauge cable to the + cable under the hood?
I just put a terminal on the end and bolted it to the factory one. I probably will redo it by soldering them together but I like it this way so If I want to go back to stock I can fairly easily. But if you do want to go to a track that follows NHRA rules like I do, you must have a sealed box that is vented to the outside and a battery cut-off switch that you can shut off from outside the car. But otherwise it is a pretty easy thing to do.
You don't need to ground the (-) under the hood. The ground goes from the battery to the firewall factory so just take it off. Then just ground the battery to the floor in the hatch, make sure to scrape off the paint so you get a good ground, when you attach it to the car.
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thanks guys. my + battery cable is corroding bad so i have to cut it shorter anyway. i figured i would relocate the battery while i was at it.
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Here are some pictures of how I did my battery relocation.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/465768/2
I used 2ga wire for the main power, and 3 10ga wire's for the 3 fuseable links that are on the battery. I put the fuseable links back on the battery so I could have a direct connection from the battery to the starter with the 2ga and so the links would have power directly from the battery.
I ran the 2ga wire from the battery, to the circut breaker, left enough extra 2ga wire after the switch so that I can put in a cutoff switch when I feel ambitious Then I ran the wire all the way up to the firewall on the passengerside of the car parralelling the stock wiring harness that was there. Then I drilled a hole through the firewall and fed the wire through and then connected the 2ga wire directly to the big terminal on the starter using a ring terminal.
Then I got a shorter piece of 4ga wire and ran it from the same terminal on the starter as the 2ga wire, then I ran that wire up to the fuse for the alternator in the fuseable link box. This means that the power for the alternator will still be fused and it will have less resistance since it goes through a 2ga wire back to the battery instead of a seperate 4ga wire. I will run another 4ga wire from the other side of the fuse to the alternator, replacing the stock POS alternator wire with a wire that can handle more current with less resistance. I will do this when I feel ambitous as well...
Then I just connected the one 10ga wire to each of the 3 wires that went to the fuseable link box on the battery, soldered them and then ran them back and hooked them to the battery using the fuseable link box.
There was a ground wire that went from one of the starter bolts to the neg. terminal on the battery stock. So I left the one end of the wire on the starter bolt and connected the other to where the ground wire from the battery to the chassi used to be and I just grounded the battery in the hatch area to a sturdy bolt.
All in all it works good but I need to get thicker ground wires to go from the chassi to the motor since the wires are too small and the motor seems to crank slightly slower than it did before the battery relocation.
Sorry for the huge post but I wanted to try and explain how I did it since most people run the 2ga wire and then use a distribution block for the 3 smaller wires.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/465768/2
I used 2ga wire for the main power, and 3 10ga wire's for the 3 fuseable links that are on the battery. I put the fuseable links back on the battery so I could have a direct connection from the battery to the starter with the 2ga and so the links would have power directly from the battery.
I ran the 2ga wire from the battery, to the circut breaker, left enough extra 2ga wire after the switch so that I can put in a cutoff switch when I feel ambitious
Then I ran the wire all the way up to the firewall on the passengerside of the car parralelling the stock wiring harness that was there. Then I drilled a hole through the firewall and fed the wire through and then connected the 2ga wire directly to the big terminal on the starter using a ring terminal. Then I got a shorter piece of 4ga wire and ran it from the same terminal on the starter as the 2ga wire, then I ran that wire up to the fuse for the alternator in the fuseable link box. This means that the power for the alternator will still be fused and it will have less resistance since it goes through a 2ga wire back to the battery instead of a seperate 4ga wire. I will run another 4ga wire from the other side of the fuse to the alternator, replacing the stock POS alternator wire with a wire that can handle more current with less resistance. I will do this when I feel ambitous as well...
Then I just connected the one 10ga wire to each of the 3 wires that went to the fuseable link box on the battery, soldered them and then ran them back and hooked them to the battery using the fuseable link box.
There was a ground wire that went from one of the starter bolts to the neg. terminal on the battery stock. So I left the one end of the wire on the starter bolt and connected the other to where the ground wire from the battery to the chassi used to be and I just grounded the battery in the hatch area to a sturdy bolt.
All in all it works good but I need to get thicker ground wires to go from the chassi to the motor since the wires are too small and the motor seems to crank slightly slower than it did before the battery relocation.
Sorry for the huge post but I wanted to try and explain how I did it since most people run the 2ga wire and then use a distribution block for the 3 smaller wires.
i have also been thinking about relocating my battery to the trunk. but i was just wondering about something are there some strong battery boxes out there, because what happens if the battery exploads. i mean its sitting right there behind you when its in your trunk. i've seen some batteries do some damage when they explode. this is really my only concern with putting the battery in the trunk. has anyone ever had any problems with this?
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