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I Desperately need help...car stalls after afc install

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Blitz E-Klipz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm serious guys, I posted in help several times about various things the past week and only got 1 reply for one of them. Well right now I desperately need help, not even joking, i'm about to go insane here. This is the last attempt for help before I yank the damn thing out and throw it away. This is my last resort since my previous threads were pretty much ignored, I tried asking everybody and doing searches on here and tooners, and read the trouble shooting on rre's site and manual.

Ok for those of you willing to help, what happened was after I installed my afc2, the car would stumble and stall whenever I put the clutch in while driving, or when I do free revving during idle. Weird thing is the car would have a strong gasoline smell during idle and in the car while driving, and when I free rev to 4k+ i would hear slight pops from the exhaust. This should be a sympton of the car idling too rich, but how could that be?

I checked all the wiring done on the ecu, everything is correct and connected securely. And I did do all the settings correctly (karman, 4 cyl, throttle up). My car was turned completely stock, down to the stock airbox, so obvoiusly I'm not venting, so that can't be the problem. And since it's stock right now I didn't touch the fuel trim settings at all.

Once again....ALL the wires are tapped correctly, settings are correct, and the car is stock with untouched fuel settings on the afc. The car ran just fine before the afc install. I really don't know what this could be. I did a search and it seems like a lot of people had this problem, but not invovling an afc install. As I said this is my last attempt for help until I remove the damn thing. I'd prefer not to because the airflow wires on the ecu is already really short, and it would be a bitch to retap a connection to it later.

Please help me guys, I need it really bad. Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
What mods did you do on the car so far?
 
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#4 ·
I agree with Sean. Does it run with everything zeroed out, like it would if the afc wasn't even there.


You may have to pull everthing out and do another rewiring, just in case.:)
 
#5 ·
If you used the connectors that came with the SAFC, try disconnecting the SAFC from the airflow signal and plug the airflow signal from the MAF back into the ECU. At least that will eliminate the chance that the SAFC's is mucking with it.

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Ok after tonight, things are getting really weird. I drove my car to a friend's house to pick something up, and also to show him my car's problem. Parked it, and then the lights would turn off in the car by itself, battery is dead, but not completely.

So thinking it was the afc, I disconnected all the wires, and reconnected the airflow signal wires back together. Car is still dead... OK must be the battery. It was the connectors gone bad, finally get it running again.

Now here is the good and bad news:

Bad news: With the afc out, the car still acts the same way... stalls when I go into neutral.

Good news: This means it's not related to the afc, so I did do everything correctly

Now there are several things I can think of: Bad battery connectors, bad exhaust leak from turbo to manifold and o2 to downpipe, and possibly bad plugs and wires.

Could any of those things cause the stalling?
 
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#7 ·
If theres an exhaust leak you can hear it, and if thats the case why dont you just fix it? And if theres any question in your mind about the plugs why not replace them too? Dont dick around on maintenance just because you want to save that 10$ for that 50 trim you want. Problems that you leave will only get worse later.

Boost leak before the turbo will show too little air and after the turbo it will cause too much. So pressure test the system, find and fix all the leaks.

That vented blow off valve counts as a boost leak, fix it, your ECU will thank you.

Still doesn't fix it? When was the last time you replaced your o2 sensors? How well it runs at idle is reliant on that.

The reason nobody is responding is because the things above are all simple things that most people assume you know to do because a lot of whats wrong with you car has been addressed so many times people just stop caring. Plus why are you modding a car if you dont understand it yet, theres a lot of really retarded crap I wanted to do when I first got mine because I had no idea about the car. Looking back I'm glad I was broke.

If you still have trouble theres a few of us down the 57 and off the 91 that can help :santa:
 
#9 ·
Remember when you disconnect your battery, or it's dead, the ECU has to relearn itself. This will cause the car to die after you shift into neutral or it will drop very low in the rpm's. Get a new battery if yours took a crap and drive it around for a while for the ECU to relearn then it should be ok.
 
#10 ·
You say that you have it wired correctly--but correctly "as it states in the install instructions from APEXi"? Or *wired correctly*?


The APEXi instructions tell you to use the yellow and white wires for our cars (MAF signal). Whereas, you should be using the pink and orange ones.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Mike, damn you're being so harsh, in a way I'm still very much a newbie when it comes to working on the car, and honestly I admit I don't know the car as well as I should. I hate asking for help, so I'll try to change that.

Stevep: I did a search and people said adjusting the biss didn't do anything, yes it would idle higher but once you start driving and jab the clutch it still stalls.

Turbo98: I'm well aware of that, and that's what I thought was the problem, but after 30 mins of driving in the city and highway, it's still like that.

Dssa: Yes I did the connections correctly AND i used the orange and pink wire. Right now I took the afc off, and the car is still stalling, so I know I installed the afc correctly.

Jesterbot: I checked the mas connection, and ic pipes are ok.

Right now I'm suspecting it's the battery connections or the exhaust leak, I will be fixing those right now.
 
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#13 · (Edited)
I dunno that I intended to be harsh, just wanted to address what you were asking. I remember you and your car, you got the exhaust ticket right that one night? Just cant remember your name.

Im sure you know ant with the 97 gst and the crazy stereo, we installed his 14b for him because he doesnt know how to do it. Brian Kimball is very good at electrical, theres no shame in letting someone else do it. He installed my AFC, I installed his turbo for him. In the end both of our cars run great. I didnt want to pay road race over the top prices to port my 2g manifold, so did I do it myself? Hell no, I had my dad do it, who has 20 years of experience with that sort of thing.

What I'm trying to say is you could always get in contact with the locals for this sort of thing.
 
#14 ·
Blitz E-Klipz said:

Stevep: I did a search and people said adjusting the biss didn't do anything, yes it would idle higher but once you start driving and jab the clutch it still stalls.
Click to expand...
I don't recall suggesting you adjust the BISS. I suggested you double check the ISC and Idle Position Switch. The ECU uses the IPS to tell it when you closed the throttle and uses the ISC to emulate a dashpot to keep the engine running when you do so.

Hopefully your find the problem.

Steve
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
SidozeGST said:
I dunno that I intended to be harsh, just wanted to address what you were asking. I remember you and your car, you got the exhaust ticket right that one night? Just cant remember your name.

Im sure you know ant with the 97 gst and the crazy stereo, we installed his 14b for him because he doesnt know how to do it. Brian Kimball is very good at electrical, theres no shame in letting someone else do it. He installed my AFC, I installed his turbo for him. In the end both of our cars run great. I didnt want to pay road race over the top prices to port my 2g manifold, so did I do it myself? Hell no, I had my dad do it, who has 20 years of experience with that sort of thing.

What I'm trying to say is you could always get in contact with the locals for this sort of thing.
Click to expand...
Yea I'm the one that got the exhaust ticket that night, since the little meet at K mart that we had over a year ago my car has been turned back to 100% completely bone stock.

I just recently got back into modding. A lot of parts have been laying around in my room for almost 2 months, I decide to finally start and this happens. I would really like help from the locals, but quite frankly nobody has time to do these lengthy installs, not even myself. I talked to brian about the afc problem, but as I mentioned earlier this is not an afc related problem.

Today I tried to fix my problem and I think i found it. I have a massive exhaust leak from dp to o2... when I looked under I was missing a bolt on the dp. I went to home depot and found a similar sized bolt just to find out it was a tad too small, but I tightened the other bolt as tightly as possible so the exhaust leak isn't as bad as it was before. Right now I have a new battery connector, and the car seems to be idling ok and not dying when I free rev. I'm afraid to take it out for a test drive this time at night since it could die on me like it did last night.

What's your aim sn mike? I'm not sure if you changed it or I deleted it. My name is Will btw. Laurence and ant are sort of at my level when it comes to knowledge about our cars, you and brian seem to be the dsm gurus and it would be great if you guys can give me a hand with my new mods. Instant message me on aim; my sn is NskGenakuDuckie
 
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Blitz E-Klipz
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