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yeah I know it takes alot of money and time and tuning to get a FWD or AWD to the 9 second range but I think I can eventually get it there with a 2.3L and a 60 trim setup.
 
Just an update for this setup. I went back to the dyno again with a little race gas and more boost. (2 1/2 gallons of 116, but 2-3 gallons of 94 still in my tank) My engine gremlins were back again and I had problems with the car breaking up in the upper rpms along with high boost. At 26psi it happened a little, but at 28psi it was happening much more. The difference between the last dyno visit and now was a switch to new NGK wires, new ngk plugs (7's gapped at .028"), Keydiver chip for the 780s (compared to the 650 chip that was in last time), and a Supra TT fuel pump. This breaking up couldn't be controlled through tuning, and my afr was up in the 12:1 range from about 5k on up (from a previous afr of 10:1 or richer before that). My guess is the spark was blowing out, causing all that oxygen that didn't get used up in combustion to give false readings to the wideband. I plan to try a smaller gap and maybe even a colder spark plug such as an 8 series. I also want to make some ground straps to be certain that the most current is getting through for items using the engine as grounding points to the frame.

Anyway, my best pull of the day can be seen in my sig, but just in case I change it in the future it is 421whp/375tq. Theres defintely room for improvment and for a lot of variables to be taken care of.
 
Sorry for off topic here

91TSiGuy said:
with the car breaking up in the upper rpms along with high boost. At 26psi it happened a little, but at 28psi it was happening much more. The difference between the last dyno visit and now was a switch to new NGK wires, new ngk plugs (7's gapped at .028"),
Spark blow-out is very real and could apply to any large turbo and high boost psi thread.

Yep the part where you say that it got worse at 28 psi than 26 psi is the damning evidence in my book and experience.

Put in some NGK BR7ES plugs (not BPR7ES) and set your gap back up to .030".
 
Just curious, but why back to .030" from .028" or is that the benefit of not running a projected tip?

As mentioned in the PM I sent Van, I'm pretty sure I am running the BPR's and not the BR's. It's late right now, but I will check later on tomorrow probably.
 
the engine breaking up in the high rpms with high boost has happened to me several times before as well. it definitely pisses one off. :mad:

i plan on upgrading my ignition soon as 23 psi just is not enough for me.....my turbo should be efficient all the way up to 30 psi. Yours even MORE so....

-d
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Breaking up or not, that's still some decent power. The local club here is having a couple dyno days this month, but unfortuntely it's too soon for me. I'm in the middle of buying a house, so dynoing my car and running the risk of breaking something is not high on my priority list at the moment.

In the meantime I'll just sit back and watch you figure out all the problems associated with this setup. :D I have a feeling that in the end you may be compelled to stick a MSD DIS-2 box in there. I'm interested to see if those plugs Van suggested are going to be an effective alternative.
 
nukefission said:
In the meantime I'll just sit back and watch you figure out all the problems associated with this setup. :D I have a feeling that in the end you may be compelled to stick a MSD DIS-2 box in there.
hahaha. dont you love being a ginnea pig? :D

MSD is probably the way ill eventually go.... hello 30 psi :)

-d
 
Ha, yeah being the ginnea pig a blast :rolleyes: I think I should set up a donation fund in search of sorting out these bugs. Victor, since I'm helping you out in the long run, you could be the first to make a contribution! :p
 
Just to pop into this thread and say hey. I should be getting my car up and running here this weekend if all goes well. My setup this year includes some 1000cc injectors, SCM61 with a tial 40mm gate, MAFT in the upper pipe, DSMLink V2 and some other misc things. I have had my spark do that to me before on my old 60trim and this was with an MSD. I switched out to 10mm wires this year and I am tempted to try BPR8es for at the track. After about 700 break in miles, the car should make it to the track sometime in april once I get my wideband installed and get the whole car tuned on the MAFT I will report back with my findings.
 
Let us know how those BPR8ES's work for you. I just picked up a pair of the BR7ES's to replace the BPR7ES's and will be going to the track Sunday to see if they help at all. Hopefully the weather holds out.
 
Discussion starter · #72 · (Edited)
Well, I decided to dyno my car anyway. :) I wasn't all that prepared, so basically I put some C-16 in the car, went tuning up and down the road for a few minutes, and put it on the dyno. Since I'm driving this car daily for the next couple months, I was REALLY apprehensive about doing this. I set a semi-conservative tune of ~26 psi and no knocking, with a race/pump mix of about 70/30. While I was tuning, I started to smell clutch (my ACT2600 is 3 years old and has many miles and drag passes on it) so I was worried I'd end up being like every other guy that posts here with dyno results on a slipping clutch. :)

But the clutch held. A rushed pressure test yielded no obvious leaks. Here's the chart:
Image

3rd gear. Pretty much the same as Brent but with a bit less torque. The torque and hp curves drop pretty dramatically due to the stock intake manifold and less-than-optimum boost. I was losing some timing at the top of the gear, which was bumping up the EGTs. We took out some signal up top, got some timing back on the next pull, and picked up 7 peak hp. I was only allotted two pulls so that was the end of it (hey, it was free, so I can't argue with that).

I really could have gotten away with 30 psi, but I didn't feel like chancing it. The reason I know is that while I was tuning, I had blown off the signal hose to the wastegate without knowing it, so everytime boost hit it flew up to and past 30 psi. In spite of that, the state of tune was fine, so the car probably could have handled it. Maybe next time, when I have another car to fall back on.

I did not have any spark blowout problems. I was running recently installed BPR7ES plugs. Also, I had zero boost creep. I guess the warmer weather and/or running more than 20 psi put the turbo/wastegate where it wanted to be.

I'm happy with the results mainly because nothing broke, but also because the car is fairly thrown together and not exactly where I want it to be, because of the fact my other car died and I had to put this one together to drive to work.
 
Discussion starter · #73 ·
For comparison, I should note that the changes in my setup from my old 313hp/329tq to 421hp/363tq were the turbo, custom O2 housing & external wastegate, and the MAFT (from a 16G, ported 2G O2 housing, and 2G MAS). Oh, and more boost. :D
 
Congratulations, and good job on the dyno. I bet it feels good to have another 100+ whp at your disposal. :)

Can you give some more information about your pulls, like your timing curve, ipw, and the airflow hz? Also, are you still using 660's?
 
Discussion starter · #75 ·
Still on 660s. I had done all the throttle tuning with the MAFT only; the AFC was completely zeroed out. Basically I leaned WOT by about 5 clicks from my street setting, and everything else just fell into place. At the beginning of the pull, the timing started at around 20* and would slowly fall to 18* by 7500 RPM. We took out a percent or two of signal with the AFC at 6000 RPM and up, which brought the timing up a degree or two. Upon closer inspection of the logs later on, there was gradual "mound" of timing advance from 5000 RPM to 7000 RPM, in which it would start and end at 20* but peak at 25*.

O2s held a flat .84V. The IPW curve was fairly flat, but I'm toeing the duty cycle line by the time 7500 RPM rolls around. The bulk of the pull had a 17.5-17.9 ms IPW, dropping down to 15.9 by the end. Peak EGT was dead-on at 900*C each time.

As far as airflow numbers, I don't remember. Earlier in this thread I posted seeing 2800 Hz of airflow at 2x psi, but that was with the MAFT-suggested "660cc" worth of signal taken out. Now I have about 850-900cc worth of signal taken out -- in order to get the around-town gas mileage that I want -- so the airflow reported on the AFC is much lower. All this compensating BS really messes with that. In fact, I was quite surprised that my timing advance during the pulls wasn't much higher as a result of all the signal I had taken out with the BASE fuel setting.

If could've done more pulls, I would have turned the boost up a bit and looked at what the timing did, and adjusted accordingly bit-by-bit with the AFC. I've found that you really can't rely on knock sum when you're running C-16. I never ever get knock on C-16, no matter how on the edge I think I'm running the car. As a friend of mine put it: "on C-16, you could burn all the valves up and the knock sensor would still be like 'yeah, it's good.'" :D
 
Nice job, Victor. I don't seem to have my ignition problem anymore with the new plugs. I'm guessing thats what was wrong......such a simple thing too.

Anyway, I went to the track today with no cage (yet) and running 28-29psi. I managed two 11 second runs where the rest of them I was just messing around and gettind the car dialed in or was working on my launching. I didn't want to get kicked out too early ;). My timing was still being retarded a lot....like down to 6* advance I'd say. Something is up with my knock sensor I guess. I'll try lowering the base timing to 3* and eventually try the updated lash adjusters when I can afford them. Best run of the day was an 11.877 @ 118.56. I sense there can be some improvement still.
 
wow, those numbers look great. Victor, is your ecu chipped for your injectors? im happy to see that the MAFT is supporting big HP numbers.

id love to get my car to the dyno again in light of my recent runs at the track...

again, congrats...

-dom
 
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