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BullseyePower said:
Our official position on the T04B is that its a great alternative to any 16g. It can provide more flow, higher HP and similar spool up. Its also competitively priced to a ported and wastegate moded Big or EVO III 16g and for the 2g guys there's no J-pipe required.
Thanks for clearing that up. :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
seems like there is some neg. thought about bullseye.
is there anything anyone would like to fill me in on? im planning on buying a turbo from them, and want to make sure its all legit.
thanks for the imput

kirill
 
BullseyePower said:
If I remember correctly your whole issue was that fact that we dont test our turbos before we sell them. I told you that The Turbo Challenge was launched so that real customers like yourself could share their data. Now that the data has come out this should satisfy everyone's curiosity.
Your customers did the testing for you? So the issue still remains that you did not do any testing of your product before releasing it to the public.
 
Here's a quote from one of the other threads

V-trim = 11.7 at 115/391 whp
V-trim = 401 whp
H-3 = 525 whp w/ water injection
HX-35 = 494 whp
HX-35 = 7.62 1/8th mile
HX-40 = 549 whp at 20 psi
HX-40 = 596 whp at 28 psi

Redrkt, I think you've seen this before.
 
I'm redrkt. :D

There are some things about that dyno that i don't quite fully understand.
1. Are those dyno figures corrected or uncorrected?

2. No boost controller and a 15psi actuator. If the actuator was set loose enough to crack open at 12 psi, it should have been fully open at 15psi, and it seems like the boost would be held there. I don't understand why it creeped from 12 psi to 24psi at the end of the pull, being that the 38mm internal gate is known not to creep like that. What would cause it to creep like that? About the only thing i can think of is a shot of nitrous.

3. Stock timing? It's obvious that Rocky has taken out quite a bit of airflow by looking at the stock boost gauge. It is around 7psi most of the pull and never goes all the way to 14psi. The stock boost gauge is representative of the airflow signal the ecu is seeing, after it's molested by the AFC. With that low of airflow he is getting pretty aggressive timing advance, i'd guess somewhere around 24-26* peak at 6k rpm. Which leads me to my next observation.

It took Dre sometime tuning with a standalone and wideband(and alot of other mods) to make 390-400whp on pump gas. He found that to make it happen he had to run a much less agressive timing curve than even a stock 2g, which is less aggressive than the stock 1g timing curve. Most other people have found the same to be true with timing to make big power on pump gas. High boost & timing(even stock timing), and pumpgas doesn't work well together, which makes it hard for me to believe Rocky's run was really on pump gas.

Your customers did the testing for you? So the issue still remains that you did not do any testing of your product before releasing it to the public.
This is why it's important for testing to be done by a reputable company or person, so the information can be given accurately and completely. Why would Rocky lie? Who knows, maybe to win $150 dollars. Maybe he didn't lie, and i'm just missing some important information that isn't available.
 
Kinda of hard to lie about the #'s since the dyno graph is there. However, possibly lying about running pump gas, when actually running race gas of some sort. I was very confused about the actual amt. of boost being ran as well, since his boost gauge didn't hit 24psi until 7000 rpm.

I've got GREAT experience running big boost and pump gas. It's NOT easy!!! You don't get much in the form of timing from the ECU. 25psi, 93 octane, on a 50 trim, I had to keep the AFC around -5 to 0 to keep everything happy. I never saw more than 18 deg. advance (23* total) and it would fall to around 15-16 deg. at the end of the run (approx. 6700rpm in 4th gear).
 
I dont have the answer to your first question since I never asked, but I will. The second question was one we had too. Its possible that he has a defective actuator, although rare, its the only logical explaination. We just swapped it out for a high pressure (22 pound) actuator and he plans to hit the dyno again in the next week or two. I can assure he's not running nitrous, I think the close up pictures can atest to that. I can't comment much on your third question since I've never owned a 1st gen nor do I know much about the limits of pump gas. I've owned 3 second gens and if I hit the dyno I poured in the good stuff, detonation can be too costly.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
So how did this thread turn from...Garrett turbos...to...Bullseye makes crapy turbos?

on another note....dyno's dont mean mutch. yeah they will tell you what you are putting down, but thats about it. you can make 800WHP out of a civic on a dyno, but if you hit the streets your car will be slower then a 1996EX untill your like at 8K WOT...

so back to the topic of turbos' and not bashing ppl/ businesses...

Does anyone know if anyone out there mods 18g's?
thanks
kirill
 
I think the bashing started when Bullseye jumped in and started pushing their products.

A dyno run can tell you lots, it doesn't just tell you a peak HP and toque numbers it tells where in the rpm range it is making that power. If a car makes X amount of HP on the dyno it will make the same HP/torque at that RPM on the street (ASSuming street gas and a correct conversion factor).

I replied to your PM but I don't really understand what you mean by a modified 18G, why would you want to modify it? If you mean clipping or porting any major turbo vendor can have that done. But if you are talking different housings and such there is no point unless swapping on a larger MHI hot side but from what you said in your PM you are concerned about spool up so this would not be for you.
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
what i meant by modded, is diff. wheels.
is there a map for a cliped and ported EVO3 16G? the only thing im conserned about w/ a evo3 is having the turbo run out of air in the upper RPM's. What is the max boost you guys run out of EVO3's before you start pushing hot air(go past the efficency point of the turbo)?
 
snowman4us said:
what i meant by modded, is diff. wheels.
is there a map for a cliped and ported EVO3 16G? the only thing im conserned about w/ a evo3 is having the turbo run out of air in the upper RPM's. What is the max boost you guys run out of EVO3's before you start pushing hot air(go past the efficency point of the turbo)?

The 18G is the wheel. The 18Gs housings are used on many turbos.


EDIT- Who has the picture of the MHI wheels lined up to show what I am talking about?
 
Alright I'm going to jump in here and explain what the hell is going on with my car. I am Rocky, I own the black 1g car that has the bullseye power V-trim on it that made 394 whp. As stated before, I can reassure you all it was on 93 pump and the turbo did have a defective actuator. The problem has since been fixed and is headed back to the dyno this evening. As David said, no nitrous. To the question asked before about tuning, the dyno in which the car was tuned on has a wideband set-up and was tuned according to that. The reason my dyno sheet online do not show A/F's is because they are a copy printed off at a later date. If anyone has any doubts or questions, feel free to hit me up on AOL AIM(projectm325) and I will answer anything you might have for me.

Again, the car will be on the dyno tonight. Stay tuned.

-Rocky
 
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