Yesterday.. it arrived! I was so psyched, I skipped dinner to get the thing installed.
Parts List:
DSMLink from ECMTuning
Decent laptop
Tools:
Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket/ratchet
Wire cutters
Electrical tape
Wire connectors
Laptop Specs:
These are the (basic) specs of my laptop which works like a champ..
P4 2.0 GHz
1GB RAM
Serial port set to COM1
Windows XP
Installation:
I already had my ECU socketed and rebuilt by Dave a few months ago for a Keydiver chip so I did not have to send my ECU away. When I received the package included in the box was:
*DSMLink software (CD-ROM)
*Data cable
*Clutch cut wiring
*Screw, 3 washers and a spacer for the daughter board
*Daughter board
*EPROM module
*Basic instructions
*Note.. I suggest you hit the DSMLink website and download the User Manual (.PDF) and read it over. I printed it out the day I ordered DSMLink and read the whole thing to get an idea of where things are and how things work so I wasn't totally lost when I got it installed.
Installation was easy. I kicked off the software install (which ran when the CD was inserted) and got to work pulling the ECU. Once I had the ECU out, I unscrewed/removed the top of the casing. Next, I CAREFULLY pried the Keydiver chip from the socket. Once removed and in a safe place, I removed the screw holding the ECU board to the enclosure and put it with the keydiver chip.
*Note.. I am NOT using a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket. Some people have had issues w/ the ZIF socket because once the DSMLink board is installed, you cannot rotate the lever to tighten it.
Next, I gently pushed the DSMLink board into the EPROM socket on the ECU main board. I placed the included spacer between the DSMLink board and the ECU board, placed the washers over the hole and threaded in the included screw. THIS DOES NOT NEED TO BE TIGHT!! YOU CAN BREAK THE BOARD OR DESTROY THE PINS!!! I gently snugged the screw down and verified that the board was not bending.
While the ECU was out, I installed the clutch cut switch. Instructions are included.. It is ALMOST idiot proof. Next, I replaced the ECU cover, and re-installed it in the car. I then finished the software installation.
Once the Software install was done, I disconnected the pocketlogger cable from the diag. plug and installed the DSMLink serial cable in it's place. I attached the other end to the serial port on my laptop and fired up the software. I connected to the ECU by clicking the ECU -> Connect menu item. Seeing that the ECU was connected, I set the MAF Translator to 450's and zero'd out the rest of the dials.
Performance:
First off, I should mention that when you order your package, you will be asked a few questions so the EPROM can be configured with a "baseline" for you to start off with. For example, I specified my FIC 650cc injectors and when looking at the fuel config in the DSMLink fuel window, injector compensation and dead time were already set. Which is nice. Saves me from doing the math.
I let the car idle for 15 mins to warm up and verify that the idle was OK. It is better than it's ever been. Bonus points +10. I then drove the car at a nice even pace for 15 miles to ensure all temps were up. etc.
Run #1 - With ALL of the fuel settings at zero, the car felt really nice. Very smooth accel. and just all around strong. I was running way rich (.98) so I decided to lean it out a bit between 4000 RPM and 6000 RPM
Run #2 - With slight tweaks to the fuel and literally touching NOTHING else, the car felt even hella stronger. Actually, stronger than it has ever been on the MAFT. I was still running a bit rich through the 5000-7000 RPM range so I adjusted accordingly. I also noticed a bit of knock retard (2.4 degrees) between 4000-4300 RPM. I richened it 3% in that range and went at it again..
Run #3 - Enter my new car.. Stage left. The talon is OBVIOUSLY happy with a proper tune. I still saw a tiny bit of knock retard (.4 degrees) in the low RPM range but nothing to write home about. The top end performance is mind blowing!! I suspect it is still a bit rich too. At 7100 RPM, I was only seeing EGT temps of 1510* and O2's of .92. I will try leaning it out and see if it feels better.
The only problem I see is that now the car is running properly, I am noticing the limitations of the stock cams and intake manni.
Vendor Performance:
I had the package the day after I ordered it. What else can I say. They rock. Also, when you order, you will be given access to the DSMLink forums. EXCELLENT info there.
Conclusion:
100% HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!! The product is outstanding, the Vendor is outstanding and the benefits that DSMLink offers are next to none. It is like having an easy to use stand alone system.
Feel free to ask any questions.
-JP
Parts List:
DSMLink from ECMTuning
Decent laptop
Tools:
Phillips head screwdriver
10mm socket/ratchet
Wire cutters
Electrical tape
Wire connectors
Laptop Specs:
These are the (basic) specs of my laptop which works like a champ..
P4 2.0 GHz
1GB RAM
Serial port set to COM1
Windows XP
Installation:
I already had my ECU socketed and rebuilt by Dave a few months ago for a Keydiver chip so I did not have to send my ECU away. When I received the package included in the box was:
*DSMLink software (CD-ROM)
*Data cable
*Clutch cut wiring
*Screw, 3 washers and a spacer for the daughter board
*Daughter board
*EPROM module
*Basic instructions
*Note.. I suggest you hit the DSMLink website and download the User Manual (.PDF) and read it over. I printed it out the day I ordered DSMLink and read the whole thing to get an idea of where things are and how things work so I wasn't totally lost when I got it installed.
Installation was easy. I kicked off the software install (which ran when the CD was inserted) and got to work pulling the ECU. Once I had the ECU out, I unscrewed/removed the top of the casing. Next, I CAREFULLY pried the Keydiver chip from the socket. Once removed and in a safe place, I removed the screw holding the ECU board to the enclosure and put it with the keydiver chip.
*Note.. I am NOT using a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket. Some people have had issues w/ the ZIF socket because once the DSMLink board is installed, you cannot rotate the lever to tighten it.
Next, I gently pushed the DSMLink board into the EPROM socket on the ECU main board. I placed the included spacer between the DSMLink board and the ECU board, placed the washers over the hole and threaded in the included screw. THIS DOES NOT NEED TO BE TIGHT!! YOU CAN BREAK THE BOARD OR DESTROY THE PINS!!! I gently snugged the screw down and verified that the board was not bending.
While the ECU was out, I installed the clutch cut switch. Instructions are included.. It is ALMOST idiot proof. Next, I replaced the ECU cover, and re-installed it in the car. I then finished the software installation.
Once the Software install was done, I disconnected the pocketlogger cable from the diag. plug and installed the DSMLink serial cable in it's place. I attached the other end to the serial port on my laptop and fired up the software. I connected to the ECU by clicking the ECU -> Connect menu item. Seeing that the ECU was connected, I set the MAF Translator to 450's and zero'd out the rest of the dials.
Performance:
First off, I should mention that when you order your package, you will be asked a few questions so the EPROM can be configured with a "baseline" for you to start off with. For example, I specified my FIC 650cc injectors and when looking at the fuel config in the DSMLink fuel window, injector compensation and dead time were already set. Which is nice. Saves me from doing the math.
I let the car idle for 15 mins to warm up and verify that the idle was OK. It is better than it's ever been. Bonus points +10. I then drove the car at a nice even pace for 15 miles to ensure all temps were up. etc.
Run #1 - With ALL of the fuel settings at zero, the car felt really nice. Very smooth accel. and just all around strong. I was running way rich (.98) so I decided to lean it out a bit between 4000 RPM and 6000 RPM
Run #2 - With slight tweaks to the fuel and literally touching NOTHING else, the car felt even hella stronger. Actually, stronger than it has ever been on the MAFT. I was still running a bit rich through the 5000-7000 RPM range so I adjusted accordingly. I also noticed a bit of knock retard (2.4 degrees) between 4000-4300 RPM. I richened it 3% in that range and went at it again..
Run #3 - Enter my new car.. Stage left. The talon is OBVIOUSLY happy with a proper tune. I still saw a tiny bit of knock retard (.4 degrees) in the low RPM range but nothing to write home about. The top end performance is mind blowing!! I suspect it is still a bit rich too. At 7100 RPM, I was only seeing EGT temps of 1510* and O2's of .92. I will try leaning it out and see if it feels better.
The only problem I see is that now the car is running properly, I am noticing the limitations of the stock cams and intake manni.
Vendor Performance:
I had the package the day after I ordered it. What else can I say. They rock. Also, when you order, you will be given access to the DSMLink forums. EXCELLENT info there.
Conclusion:
100% HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!! The product is outstanding, the Vendor is outstanding and the benefits that DSMLink offers are next to none. It is like having an easy to use stand alone system.
Feel free to ask any questions.
-JP