I am looking at puttingone of these rods in my slave cyl only because I have a SBR 3500 clutch kit. Have any of you guys used this part and had any issues with it? Is the instal as easy as taking the rod out of the new slave cyl and putting in the extended rod? Any help appreciated...thanks
Extended Slave Cyl Rod
Lox
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I am looking at puttingone of these rods in my slave cyl only because I have a SBR 3500 clutch kit. Have any of you guys used this part and had any issues with it? Is the instal as easy as taking the rod out of the new slave cyl and putting in the extended rod? Any help appreciated...thanks
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348 Posts
just put one in mine seems to doing fine. easy to install 5-10 minutes. why do you say it doesn't last?
Thanks for the response, could you elaborate a little more? In theory it couldn't stop working, I mean if the rod is longer its going to stay that way for ever. I am not looking for an easier clutch pedal, my issue is more of a slave replacement thing, I think the heavy clutch/pressure plate killed my orielly replacement slave. I am going with a mitsu part this time.ken inn said:
Tubrbogrrrrrr-was it an easy install?
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348 Posts
yup it was easy to install. put in a autozone slave cylinder and it would grind going into gear even after bleeding correctly numerous times and adjusting the master cylinder rod. I put in the extended slave rod and all grinding disappeared.
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4,347 Posts
I made and installed one in mine but it only worked a somewhat. I still get low engagement, but luckily no grinding. I may try to make one that is slightly longer than 1/4" next time Im bored.
or its possible you guys could actually replace the part that is causeing your problems: the clutch fork. with cars as old and abused as ours the clutch fork and pivit ball tend to wear if not taken care of properly. and since i dont know too many people who take these apart and actually check there specs that is most likely your problem. fix the problem not bandaid it.
I said that all my parts were new, and indeed they are. I have a BRAND new clutch fork- the updated design, and fulcrum ball in the transmission....my issue was with a cheap replacement part and I thought when I replaced the slave cyl I would also get an extended rod...i1nk83 said:
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Why don't you tell them the CORRECT parts to fix/replace? For the most part, it's usually NOT the clutch fork/ball that needs replacing, although it can't hurt to replace them on a high mileage vehicle.i1nk83 said:
The problem lies within the clutch pedal assembly. THAT is the culprit. It gets worn down so bad, it's not allowing you to fully disengage the clutch. Search on here and also there were a few good threads on tooners that showed good pics on how to fix the problem.
If you have a 1G, make sure your clutch pedal assembly has absolutely NO play. Check it. Tap the clutch pedal very slowly and you MUST see the same movement translated to the lever. If it doesn't move n-sync with the pedal, you have play. Any play no matter how miniscule makes a big difference in engagement/disengagement of the clutch. Actually, even if you don't have any play, it's still a good idea to pull the assembly out, and weld the lever to the shaft to avoid any future wear.
Secondly, if you are having disengagement issues with the clutch engaging/disengaging almost off the floor, SHIM the pivot ball FIRST. I use a head bolt washer on mine which is MORE than plenty. I have found that I can even use the stock SC just by doing this. I would also modify the MC pushrod (repolace it with a longer threaded bolt) to give you a wider range of adjustment.
Play with it till you are happy.
Secondly, if you are having disengagement issues with the clutch engaging/disengaging almost off the floor, SHIM the pivot ball FIRST. I use a head bolt washer on mine which is MORE than plenty. I have found that I can even use the stock SC just by doing this. I would also modify the MC pushrod (repolace it with a longer threaded bolt) to give you a wider range of adjustment.
Play with it till you are happy.
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QWKLIL4 said:
u guys throw out all kinds of "this is the problem..that is the problem" but never take the time to read anything of value. it takes approx 25% more throw in the entire hydraulic assembly to completely disengauge an act (and for the sake of this thread) sbr pressure plate. Act goes over this and up until recently it was also posted on taboos webpage. you can make this up by adjusting the rod out on 1gs, but on 2gs you can't do this or you block the release valve. either shim the pivot ball or add an extended slave. most likely the person that saw it work then not work IS having hydraulic system issues but it does take a longer throw to completely disengauge an act PP
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42 Posts
You guys that are buying aftermarket slave cylinders should also make sure they are giving you the right parts. When I was shopping for one the parts stores tried to give me the FWD 13/16" piston'd slave instead of the AWD style 3/4" slave. The FWD style slave won't have as much travel as the AWD slave. Just something to watch out for.
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