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mike1126

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
ok well my car is burnin oil the only thing i can think it is the piston rings. I got a new turbo and vavle seals still burnin oil. i have a 1995 7 bolt right now and if i bought a 6 bolt from a 90-92 will it fit in my engine compartment because i want to rebuild my own motor

and is there any good place to buy a block

and is there any rebuild books for this motor because i saw some for aother cars

sorry for all the post about my problems but THANKS alot
 
#4 ·
look specifically for the Factory Service manual for your car, or buy a CD FSM, which will give you all the info you need on the 4G63 motor specifically.

You can get the CD here or you can go to www.forcedperformance.com and get one. They are both the same thing.
 
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#5 ·
best thing to do or what i would do is rebuild that 6bolt and throw it in the car. Thats what i did and i love it. Im sure ull love it too. Ull be happier with the 6bolt engine than that 7bolt. But if u wanted to rebuild that 7bolt the 6bolt will drop in with minor modfications. Nothing to complicated.
 
#6 ·
What make you so sure it's piston rings or vavle seals (valve seals can be changed with the head in the car)? What test or tests have you done to reach that conclusion? Just making sure you're not wasting time and money.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Did you do your the 6 both motor yourself

OK yell it all goes back a few months ago i bought the car didnt really notices the smoke. then i notice the smoke then i said it might be the vavle seals so i got the vavle seals done by Victors Reseach. Got the car back they said it might take a few days for the oil to burn out the exhaust. A few days pass still smoke so i take it back to VR they had it for almost a week then they called me and said your piston rings are shot. So i didnt believe them so i did a compression test and got 167psi so i thought they were bull shittin me. so then i brought my car down to Pruven Performance they said the motor is fine the turbo was shot so i got a new 16g turbo they also said it might take a few days for the oil to burn out the exhaust. So in thoses few days i burned 1 1/2 quarts of oil. So now i think VR was always right about the rings.I was talkin to one of my old friends last night and he said he blow his ring and still had high compression. BUT its my fault because i dont trust shops and i still dont. Thats way i want to rebuild my motor and if they are right about the rings then ill trust them.
 
#8 ·
compression yields 4 results. were they all 167? Did you do the "wet test"?

I had a car with bad rings and I can tell you this, you wouldn't know it at first untill you put a load on the engine and it started smoking. It certainly did not use 1 1/2 quart oil in a short period of time.

My car now has bad valve seals, it smokes at idle and the oil from inside the exhaust disappears in less than a minute. It does not take that long for oil to burn out of there, that is their way of saying "oh shit, it didn't work... make something up..." They have probably used that excuse before.
 
#9 ·
1. Since you have a compression tester, repeat the test again and follow it up with a wet test. Make sure to check your testing procedures against this article.

2. Have you check the pcv valve yet?

3. How are the pcv and breather routed off your valve cover? Stock locations or catch can? Dipstick poping out? Excessive crancase pressure is one of most common causes of multiple seal failures like this. It's very possible that this ventilation problem is still there and it will not take long to blow out new valve or turbo seals due to, for example, clugged catch can or stuck pcv. It's as important to find the cause of the problem as it is to fix it.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
2. Pull the MPI (MultiPort Injection) fuse on the positive terminal of your battery. This cuts power to the injectors so they don’t spray gas all over the place.


3. Unplug the coil connector, it’s on the right side, at the back of the block. You could get a nasty shock if you don’t.

Is step 2&3 necessary because i never did it when i did it the first time and on the wet test i was told that you dont need to do it if you get the same compression in every cylinder and i did

Dipstick is not poping out. In my haynes manual it doesnt say much about the pcv i dont know what it looks like and i havent checked the breather
 
#11 ·
mike1126 said:
Is step 2&3 necessary because i never did it when i did it the first time and on the wet test i was told that you dont need to do it if you get the same compression in every cylinder and i did
Click to expand...
If you don't do two and three, how will you stop the engine from starting?

Dipstick is not poping out. In my haynes manual it doesnt say much about the pcv i dont know what it looks like and i havent checked the breather
Click to expand...
pcv valve is threaded into the valve cover on the firewall side and the breather valve is attached to the passinger side. Follow the hoses attached to them and tell us where they end up.
 
#14 ·
mike1126 said:
and the pcv valve is the think that is threaded into the valve cover ok so my be ill tcke it out and replace it
Click to expand...
If it has not been changed recently, definitely do so, make sure you replace it with an OEM one as aftermarket ones are almost gaurentee to leak. Have you done the wet compression test yet?
 
#17 ·
just becasue the compression was the same for each cyl was the same dosent mean you shouldnt do a wet test. id still do one post your results. are you sure your turbo was replaced with a new turbo or was it used. its possible its your rings but, like the others, id rule EVERYTHING else out first.
 
#19 ·
yes but i wouldnt imagine that significantly. thinkning about it more today though, your oil ring may be bad even though your compression is good. like i said though, narrow it down untill your sure you need a re-build
 
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