FRIGGIN CLUTCHES AND SHIFTING! I want REAL ANSWERS!

aktalon · May 20, 2001

there is a piece that the pushrod screws into. It is attached to the clutch fluid lever by a bolt with a clevis pin through it. If you look at where your brake pedal goes into its master cylinder you will see an identical setup. So you take out the pin, slide the bolt out, and the piece that the pushrod screws into will fall out. Now take this piece to the hardware store. Buy a 8mm nut and 8mm bolt, both with 1.25mm threads. put the nut on the bolt, and screw the bolt into the fitting untill the nut buts up against the fitting. Take it to a welding shop and have them weld the nut to the fitting. Leave the bolt in, this way the treads are alligned. Now take the bolt out and whoola you have it. This does not change the pushrod, in fact you never even have to take the pushrod out. You are just adding threads to the piece the pushrod screws into, allowing you to adjust it more. Now you can adjust the pushrod further out. Its kindof a PITA to get that fitting n and out of the clutch pedal assembly, but its worth a try.
AS far as what would cause this condition, I don't know, but I do know that these things were almost fully adjusted out from the factory which doesn't leave much room for error. As long as your clutch doesn't preload, I wouldn't worry about it to much.

Lipster · May 27, 2001

*SIGH*

Well, I thought I had a brillian idea that I would try and get a threaded rod a connecting nut and extend the rod that way. SHEEYA RIGHT. That didn't work... no room.

Ok, I've decided I am going to try your suggestion. How long ago did you do this and have any of your problems come back? Since it is a 'self adjusting' hydraulic system, I am paranoid that after I adjust it out further, it will eventually, and quickly, just drop back to the same grinding performance.

I've noticed that when my POS is cold, the shifting is pretty tolerable, but, after 20 minutes of city driving, I could just get out and shoot 3004 holes into the damn trans casing...

WGTalon · May 29, 2001

solution

I just swapped my pedal assembly and JB welded a 12mm nut onto the lever so the master cyl will have more adjustability.....moved the pedal off the floor some....better than it was.....

Lipster · May 29, 2001

Well, did the JB Weld of the nut onto the fitting for the adjustment rod. So far so good... I still need to play with it and adjust some more... hope this is it! Thanks guys!

Lipster · Jun 2, 2001

I'VE HAD IT!!!

Ok, JB Welded the nut on the rod adjustment fitting and everything was fine... FOR 1 DAY!!!!!!!!!! I'm right back to where I was!!!!!

I
CAN
NOT
TOLERATE
THIS
ANYMORE!!!!!!

Does anyone have any last ditch suggestions?!?! Does a master cylinder HAVE to be leaking for it to be bad?!?

I'm starting to get paranoid about my f**king crank walking AGAIN!!!

To be honest, I am NOT putting a tranny in this thing. I don't have any $$ left. If it comes to that, the car WILL be for sale. I'm done with it.

[Edited by Lipster on 06-02-2001 at 09:58 PM]

Lipster · Jun 3, 2001

Oh, and one last pointless note...

It is definitely something clutch/driveshaft related since I am also grinding going into reverse; no synchros in reverse, so, kinda pushes the tranny thing a BIT out of the picture...

sab4you · Jun 5, 2001

Hmm...great information on the "no syncros in reverse" - I didnt know that.

My reverse sometimes grinds as well, my guess is that stupid cotter pin in my car, but dont have the time or $ to spend ripping that bad boy out.

CTPAHHbIN · Jun 5, 2001

Tranny rebuild won't help I had one. Shop spend two weeks looking trough my tranny, pieces by pieces, and said that they can't find anything wrong I basically forced them to put new synchros for the 2nd gear. Now I have grinds in the 5th. Always in the 5th, no matter how I'm shifting. But second gear is better.

Lipster · Jun 7, 2001

What clutch are you using? I keep adjust my clutch rod further and further, weld on a nut, adjust further and further and it all falls right back to the same crappy shifting.

When your trans was rebuilt, did they do any/all bearings?

CTPAHHbIN · Jun 7, 2001

They changed all bearings and I have ACT 2100 I think something wrong with cables now, but tranny rebuild didn't do much good.

CTPAHHbIN · Jun 7, 2001

I haven't had any problems adjusting my clutch though it nice and right in the middle of pedal just the way I like it. Not too low not too high

Lipster · Jun 7, 2001

Wow... HALFWAY!?!? LUCKY!!

I want to adjust the cables, but, is the only place to adjust them located by the shifter? I want to adjust them where they meet up with the tranny.

aktalon · Jun 8, 2001

well mine lasted about 2 weeks, she now grinds again. it is not unbearable yet, just embarrasing when i cant get it into first or reverse. whoever said the clutch was self adjusting had it wrong i think, i think it's self MISadjusting.

WGTalon · Jun 8, 2001

Crankwalk?

I dunno if this is possible...Ive done the JB weld thing, new pedal assembly etc, master cyl threaded out and its starts to go down towards the floor again.
Would crankwalk have anything to do with this problem? I know its a bad thought....but it could be possible. Im pissed as hell with my car, just installed a 20g and a mid 11 second setup and cant even use the stuff. Lemme know what you think about the theory. Im out of answers also.....FIGHTING A WAR THAT CANT BE WON

WGTalon · Jun 8, 2001

Last Result

One of my last results is going to to shim the pivot ball with about 3-4 washers I already have 1 washer underneath the ball and it helped some..it just scares me to think the damn crank is walking out of the block possibly.....

Lipster · Jun 8, 2001

I guess it IS possible for crank walk. I HOPE NOT. I just put this engine in less than 3000 miles ago and it is a 6 bolt cyclone.

Last night I put a new clutch master cylinder in; no difference. I watched my clutch fork while someone pressed on the clutch pedal; it moved about 1/2 - 3/4 of an inch. That doesn't seem like a lot especially will all new hydraulics. Out of desperation, maybe I might just start replacing other stupid parts in the pedal assembly like that big ass spring...

I heard the shim works for a little while, but, then everything returns to where it was; hard shifting.

beerglass · Jun 8, 2001

Hey guys, been reading the posts for a while now. I don't think you guys have crankwalk unless a 1g can get it too. I did a CenterForce DF about three weeks ago and it's broke in now and now the 1st to 2nd shift is toast, it's like there's something in the way of shiftting. It also grinds in reverse, this didn't start until i put that damb clutch in. So i've done all the hydraulics and new fluid, and the weied nut= NOTHING. I've had it with my car too just did the head, turbo exhaust and the timming belt in the last 5 months and now this. To top it all off you have to fight with the dealers for any info or parts. If the tranny goes so does the car, i'm going to buy a Honda again, not as much fun but i don't think i spent more than $100 on it in the 2 years i owned the last one.

Clinton
1990 Talon Tsi Awd @17 psi

Lipster · Jun 8, 2001

Well, my 1G crankwalked about 3k miles ago. That is why I am a bit paranoid about it happening again.

I just called mitsu and ordered a new big tension spring, and some clutch pedal assembly bushings; last ditch effort.

Also, since I welded that nut on, I noticed that when I tried to adjust the pedal height, the lever that attaches to the adjusting rod was hitting the large metal support bracket behind it and not letting the pedal sit higher... so, I am going to try and grind away some stuff there...

ALSO *sigh* Verify if this is normal... I watched to see how far the adjusting rod pushed into the cylinder while someone pushed the pedal down. There was still maybe 1/2" - 3/4" left that could enter the cylinder before hitting the threaded part of the rod. Is this correct? OR should the entire non threaded part of the rod be pushed into the cylinder??

Can you tell I've been searching every aspect of this POS? My father and I (who is an engineer) where fighting/discussing this thing for a good 2 hours last night...

beerglass · Jun 8, 2001

What about making a longer rod for the cylinder that pushs the clutch fork out down on the tranny? Would this make for a better throw or am i smoking to much crack? By the way how do you check for crankwalk on a 1g?

Clinton
1990 Talon Tsi Awd @17 psi

[Edited by beerglass on 06-08-2001 at 09:53 AM]

Lipster · Jun 8, 2001

Well, the part in this thread where aktalon mentioned welding a nut onto the fitting the rod threads into is the same thing as putting in an 'extended' rod. Because of that 'lengthening of adjustment, that lever that the clevis pin fits into is smacking into that support. When extending the throw either with a longer rod or welding on nuts is to make sure that the lever is pushing the rod STRAIGHT into the cylinder and not crooked. I gotta check that out on mine.

Check your endplay for 1G crankwalk. I shoved the crankpulley all they way INTO the block... then had someone push on the clutch pedal. When I saw the pulley move about 1/8" or so, I pretty much new I was toast. That is WAY to much movement.

FRIGGIN CLUTCHES AND SHIFTING! I want REAL ANSWERS!

aktalon

Lipster

WGTalon

Lipster

Lipster

Lipster

sab4you

CTPAHHbIN

Lipster

CTPAHHbIN

CTPAHHbIN

Lipster

aktalon

WGTalon

WGTalon

Lipster

beerglass

Lipster

beerglass

Lipster

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