Ok. i just got my car today. when i test drove it it was a beast. IT was around 40 degrees that night. it was around 20 degrees to night and it acts like its hitting fuel cut. It misses around 5grand or 6grand. Kind of back fires. it has a apex 3inch dp and now exaust. just ends and dp. the factory boost controller has been hacke so that it runs 13psi. it has stock injectors, but 255lph fuel pump. owner said that it does it when no 93 octane and cold. i put 93 in it , but it is cold. like i said it didnt do it when i first drove the car. I think i need to turn the boost down, but dont know how to with stock controller. i have a mbc that i dont know what brand it is and not to sure how to install. Most just show for hallman and its not that brand. let me know if i cant keep it from fuel cutting or if that isnt safe how to lower the boost with stock controller.
Ok i just bought my 92 gsx and fuel cut
stanginDSM
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it does it like clock work, right at around 5200 rpms, if im not at full throttle when i get to 5200 it doesnt do it, only when i hammer on it and it is cold outside.TheGreenMachine said:
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what is your email adress and where would i go to get someone to intall chip.Crazydevil said:
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Get the aftermarket on installed ASASP.stanginDSM said:
The stock one does NOT read boost and will give you very little valid information.
In fact it is probably the only gauge more useless than a blinky A/F gauge.
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getting it put on monday. they are charging me 192 dollars to put guage and manual boost controller in. does that sound fair. i would do it , but no time or garage and it is cold outside.thegreatms said:
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well i also work around 60 hours a week and have a 18mnth old so i just dont have the time right now.laxdudeee said:OH MY! that is more than you paid for it parts!! outrageous, if you do not do it yourself and pull your skirt up with the cold then do not consider yourself a dsmer
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well i looked at mine today and it has a M in the right hand corner so i guess im screwed. can i get a new eprom ecu or is there any other way to get around this.Crazydevil said:
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Getting a ecu so you can get a chip to stop fuel cut will not fix your problem. You're NOT hitting fuel cut.
Also it will probably take as long to drive to the shop and back as it would to put in MBC and boost gauge yourself.
Also it will probably take as long to drive to the shop and back as it would to put in MBC and boost gauge yourself.
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ok then what do u think it is. maybe i will just order a datalogger and see what is going onthegreatms said:
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Use the email addess on my profile, just click on my name. On installing the chip you can do it yourself or take it to a good computer guy. So just to make sure your not running just a 3inch downpipe with no other exhaust? Right? On the ecu side I might be able to get you a eprom ecu if my buddy will part with it. I'll get a price if you are interested. Get back to me.
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well i plan on going to a evo 3 16g so would it hurt to go with the 7'sICGerms said:
Probably not, unless you plan on running the E16g at low boost levels...then you wouldn't need a colder spark plug. From my understanding, you should go to a colder spark plug if you are pushing big boost, or more boost than stock with a bigger turbo.stanginDSM said:
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my suggestings are:stanginDSM said:
1. Get your real boost gauge installed and verify that you are running 13 psi (I think you are creeping like mad and getting timing pulled.)
2. Install real MBC, set it to 15 psi.
3. Get a real boost leak test run, fix all leaks up to 18psi. (use a air compressor as your air source)
4. Do a compression test, engine warmed up, hold throttle wide open. report back numbers
5. Check your plugs and wires for wear, maybe replace if they are not new.
6. Do NOT buy a Eprom ecu. (you don't need it yet, get it when you are ready to move bigger)
7. Get a logger. and run some test runs and report back (you can get a logger cheap, all you need is a PDA and a cable. there is freeware out there that is almost as good as the stuff you buy. I use MMCD. I spent 75$ getting setup with it)
refs:
http://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/
http://www.dsmgrrrl.com/FAQs/compression.htm
http://www.vfaq.com/index-main.html
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
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ok cool. tomorrow i am taking my car to a certified mistu mechanic who has been doing a lot of work on the side on upgrading mitsu's, i would say he would be able to figure it out. he has a 1.6 litre mirage running 17psi with now electronics all stock ecu management. he just knows how to hack it. I bought plugs today and im going to get wires in the near future. He is going ot install my boost gauge and controller for 50 bucks, plus try to figure out what the problem is at 5200 rpms with it cutting out.thegreatms said:
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Right now I would go with what thegreatms said because it will be cheaper. Plus by getting a logger it will help you out in the long run.
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ok got the boost gauge and controller hooked up to day by the mitsu tech. He said before hand that it wasnt fuel cut after driving it, but it was a fuel issue. I didnt get a chance to adjust the manual boost controller, but i think i may need a new one being he had it all the way screwed in and i was hitting around 17 or 18 psi, i would say that could be some of the problem, i need to lower that down to around 14 or 15 on stock turbo. I ordered new wires and i have the sparkplugs, will check compression then and i ordered a logger, so i can see what is going on, he did say i needed a idle motor sensor, its on the firewall side right behind the throttle body. Due to my speratick idle till it warms up. Also he said i have a slight gas leak at the gas tank, He wasnt for sure if i could use a tank off of a automatic or not turbo, so if anyone knows the answer to that let me know. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get her ligned out.
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Did you say above that you have a 3in downpipe and no cat-back? Meaning the 3 in DP just ends under the car?
If so then that will cause you creep problem. A stock wastegate cannot handle that little backpressure.
If so then that will cause you creep problem. A stock wastegate cannot handle that little backpressure.
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yes that is all i have as exhaust, but the wastegate looks bigger than stock, looks like it is as big as the big 16g with 34mm flappper i had on my old car.thegreatms said:
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ok here is a update. i have gotton new wired and plugs didnt install them yet, wanted to see log first. My logger came into day and i did a 3rd gear pull and here are the readings when it starts the cutting out. i will start at 2900 rpms to redline. ftrl ftrm ftrh ft02 all stayed at 100% through runthegreatms said:
rpm injp knck 02-r tps isc tima 02-f egrt
2900 1.27 0 .01 21.4 25.7 38 2.50 -15.7
3281 16.38 0 .01 98.0 41.0 16 2.50 -19.2
3625 16.38 0 .01 98.0 41.0 15 2.50 -15.7
3968 18.17 1 .00 96.0 41.0 16 2.5 -28.2
4343 20.47 0 .01 98.8 41.0 17 2.50 -15.7
4843 24.83 0 .01 98.8 41.0 19 2.50 -36.7
5343 22.78 0 .01 98.0 41.0 20 2.50 -21.7
5875 14.59 8 .01 99.2 41.0 21 2.50 -19.2
6000 18.94 8 .01 98.0 41.0 21 2.50 -36.7
6062 16.38 14 .01 98.0 41.0 21 2.50 -30.7
looks like my injp is dropping around 5500. still new to reading this. cant tell what is going on. i know i cant controll my boost so im thinking that is why im getting the knock due to it leaning out when boost goes up to 17psi.
let me know what u all think.
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