Car missing when boost builds

B

Boosted95TSI

· Registered

Joined Nov 27, 2000

·

71 Posts

Discussion starter · #1 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

My mods are 3" turbo back which just got installed a few days ago, k&n, manual bc set 16-17psi, 14b turbo,upper ic pipe,ACT 2600, fuel pump, and boost, oil, a/f guages.
My question is that I've been running this boost since I got the dp, testpipe on last weekend, but it wasn't till today that I noticed my car kinda cutting out as the boost began to build arond 3-4G RPM. Could it be because of the weather warming up (dallas,tx) or am I looking at another problem? Should I just turn the boost down a little in the heat? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys.

 

1

1BADDSM

· Registered

Joined Feb 6, 2001

·

947 Posts

#2 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

Well I'm thinking if it's almost 90 in MI, it must be in 100s in TX. So at that temp and pressure your intercooler must be close/ is heat soaked. So if that happens here comes the knock, and down goes the power (not a whole lot, but some). It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to turn it down one or two psi. If that still doesn't work maybe you need some new wires & plugs. What is currently in there, and how old are they?

 

B

Boosted95TSI

· Registered

Joined Nov 27, 2000

·

71 Posts

Discussion starter · #3 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

I just put in some new NGKBPR6ES plugs about a month ago, and the wires I think are stockers.

 

V

verserv

· Registered

Joined Apr 20, 2001

·

3,777 Posts

#4 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

with that stuff, you should really have new wires. especially at higher boost.

 

1

1BADDSM

· Registered

Joined Feb 6, 2001

·

947 Posts

#5 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

How many miles do you have on the wires? If your boosting in the 16-17 range why didn't you replace it with colder plugs? It's probably not the problem, but seems like a waste of money.

 

B

Boosted95TSI

· Registered

Joined Nov 27, 2000

·

71 Posts

Discussion starter · #6 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

Actually, I see it as a way of saving money , but I know I need to get some aftermarket ones. Which one's should I get because I've heard bad things about both Magnecor's and Accel.

 

1

1BADDSM

· Registered

Joined Feb 6, 2001

·

947 Posts

#7 · Jun 14, 2001

Only show this user

I use Accel 300+, they are around half the price of magnecore's and they claim to have a lower resistance (100 ohms/ft, 8.8mm wire). I've heard of a couple instances of bad Magnecore boot's, and a couple people complain about longivity of the Accel wires (don't know if they were 300+ or not), but the decision is yours. I won't be disappointed if my Accel's only get 50K on them, my GP has over 50K on it's cheap A$$ delco wires (cheap as quality, 7mm , defenitly not price, over $120!!).

 

T

turbo90awd

· Registered

Joined Mar 21, 2001

·

783 Posts

#8 · Jun 15, 2001

Only show this user

The power loss could be related to the plug wires, but another thing is that your are running just a fuel pump and not a A/F computer (Super AFC, VPC...). You might just be running lean on cylinder #1. The A/F guages are highly inaccurate due to the fact that your are sampling the A/F ratio combined between all 4 cylinders at the 02 housing. The #1 cylinder (closest to driver's side) gets the least fuel because the fuel rail feeds from the passenger side. Knock will occur when the boost builds and the air begins to overrun the fuel quantities that your factory computer is set to give the engine. Once you modify the air canister and even the mass air sensor, you're letting more air in past the sensor and tricking the computer and the car will get leaner. Adding more boost will multiply the situation. Before I had my S-AFC, I just had fuel pump, 550 injectors and a modified mass air and the car showed good A/F, however once I pulled the #1 plug it showed some white coloration (getting to hot), where the other plugs remained more of a black color.