This morning, when I went to start my car up, it fired up for a second then died. When I try to start again it turns over very freely like no compression. So I do a comp test and get only between 50-75psi. I don't know what happened. It ran perfectly fine three days ago, then it has been parked since then. With all the spark plugs out shouldn't it crank (by hand via crank pully) smoothly? It still feels like it is hitting compression strokes, but how could that be with plugs out? Could this mean bent valves that are binding up? Or is this normal?
How do you tell if valves are bent?
dewdew
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This morning, when I went to start my car up, it fired up for a second then died. When I try to start again it turns over very freely like no compression. So I do a comp test and get only between 50-75psi. I don't know what happened. It ran perfectly fine three days ago, then it has been parked since then. With all the spark plugs out shouldn't it crank (by hand via crank pully) smoothly? It still feels like it is hitting compression strokes, but how could that be with plugs out? Could this mean bent valves that are binding up? Or is this normal?
I checked the T-belt and there are no problems with it, looks perfect (only about 10k old). All the timing marks line up perfectly as well. Could it possibly be bent valves with the way it is looking or do you think it must be something else like HG or rings? And if it is, why would it do this so suddenly?
When I bent my valves I removed the timing belt and was able to turn the cam gears by hand.If you want to rule out the rings you can poor a little oil in the cyclinder and do a compression test.If you get a higher reading it could be the rings but it doesent sound like rings it sounds like bent valves.Remove your valve cover visualy inspect the valve springs you may be able to see somthing out of place.
well, it is looking like rings
comp test:dry 90, 80, 70, 60
wet 230, 135, 195, 130
do you think I could get away with just doing a small rebuild like rings, valve seals, and rod bearings since I only have around 10k on all internals?
comp test:dry 90, 80, 70, 60
wet 230, 135, 195, 130
do you think I could get away with just doing a small rebuild like rings, valve seals, and rod bearings since I only have around 10k on all internals?
Also, do I NEED any special tools, or can it all be done with normal tools. I am very short on cash, which i am sure you have heard that many times. Will I just need valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and water pump gasket. Can I reuse my Mitsu metal HG? Thanks
It was.. I was having really bad performance in high rpm, high boost situations. Previously the wet test determined that my valve seals were bad though. Do you have any idea how this could happen? Like I said, it ran fine on Fri, it sat for three days, then today it fired for a second, then this happened.
So the car has been blowing blue smoke since we last spoke? If we determined last time the valve seals are bad, you probably had excessive crankcase pressure, am I right? Have you fixed the valve seals yet? Is the crankcase properly ventilated?dewdew said:
I haven't noticed blue smoke, except for a little right when I hit full boost. I haven't replaced the seals yet because I haven't had any money and it ran fine under normal driving, it wasn't only during hard driving it would run like crap. I think the crankcase is properly ventilated. It has a new pcv valve. There isn't a breather cap, though, just a tube hanging down.
I was logging and the logs were looking pretty good. I was thinking my valve seals were part of the problem, but my turbo (14b w/ 125k) was bad and causing most of my problems. I got the head off to check things out and don't see any signs of the valves hitting the pistons. There seems to be excessive amounts of carbon buildup, though. I have a few pics and will post them.
So you didn't even do a LEAKDOWN test? That "wet test" is not really a good test to show you where you're losing compression. Your rings just don't go bad in 3 days. B.S.
This actually sounded more of a valve train issue. However, we cannot really know now for sure.
This actually sounded more of a valve train issue. However, we cannot really know now for sure.
Joined
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51 Posts
If your valves are bent compression in that cylinder should read zero. I agree with some of the other guys it could be that the rings are worn past their maximum service point. But how does tis happen when their is ony 10K on you internals, If your motor suffered from lack of lubrication then the motor would have seized.
What about valve seals. A couple of them look like they are not in the right spot (looking through the spring). They are up really high on the stem. By the way, what spring compressors will work? I also noticed the crosshatching in the cylinders looks really shallow. My plan is to do rings, valve stems, and rod bearings. Is there an easy way to tell if the valve guides are bad?
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