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removing charcoal canister and vac hoses

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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I sucessfully removed my EVAP system today and no probs, car runs fine. I still left the two lines to the thermo valve, from the t-body. I capped the other two lines off.

GSXALEX- since u removed all 4 lines, what did you do to the thermal valve. I thouht this was actually an important part that needs vaccuum?

thanks
 
#22 ·
Actually that thermal valve is what inspired me to start getting rid of all the hoses. I had a boost leak there and i had just disconnected both lines and connected them together to bypass the valve and that solved the boost leak problem. My car totaly ran the same as far as start-up and warm-up are concerned. But now those lines that go to the thrmal valve aren't even hooked up at either end and my car still starts and warms up fine. Basically my car only has lines from the mani to the BOV and FPR and two taps for the boostcontroler and boost gauge. Everything else is plugged.

My car is running the best it ever has.
 
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#23 ·
anyone have pictures or do i have to get my manual to know what the hell's goin on? how much will mpg suffer from blocking or removing the egr? i get a whopping 20mpg driving like grandma now... i cant afford much less for no gain.

and what the hell should i plug to rid all the fuckin oil in my maf to turbo hose and ic pipes? is that all from the pcv vavle?

thanks
-aaron
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
You can find info about the egr blockoff @ http://www.myzero.com, and as far as the oil in your intake, this is not caused by the pcv itself. There is a hose running from the left side of your valve cover to the worm hose that connects to your MAS and filter. Take out that line, put on a little K&N breather on the valve cover nipple, and get a vacuum cap from your auto store and plug the nipple on your MAS hose. Thats it, just clean out your pipes and intercooler. The oil that accumulates in the t-body and manifold is from a little blow-by from the pcv valve, and you should clean out your throttle body i would say every other oil change or more.
 
#25 ·
Dsm-N-69n said:
You can find info about the egr blockoff @ http://www.myzero.com, and as far as the oil in your intake, this is not caused by the pcv itself
Click to expand...
that's what i meant about the pvc, and i saw a site w/that setup, thanks! also, myzero.com is a grreat site, but how in the hell do you get at the EGR? when i replaced most of my vacum lines i was going to do a blockoff plate but it looked like a bitch to get at!!!

-aaron
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
After doin some research i found that the thermo vacuum valve actually just controls the vacuum to the egr valve. Hence since i no longer have my EGR, i dont need to run lines to the thermo valve. Now i see why CA cars and cyclone engines have neither.
 
#27 ·
? i get a whopping 20mpg driving like grandma now... i cant afford much less for no gain.
Click to expand...

If your concerned about gas mileage boost leaks will make your car run very rich, which will effectivly waste your gas and rob you of power. Every single junction on every single vacuum line that comes off the manifold is a potential source for leaks. By eliminating all these vacuum lines you greatly reduce the possiblility for boost leaks.
As for the EGR block off, it won't effect your mileage one bit if its removed and blocked off.

All CA cars have functional EGRs, just the japan cars have the block offs.
 
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#28 ·
The fuel pressure one i can understand is that it helps starting in high altitudes, so unless youre on pikes peak, this isnt needed either
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Does anyone know more specificaly what exactly the FP selenoid does, when it is active and what it attemps to accomplish? My car runs fine with out it, but im at sea level, what will happen if i go into the mountains?
 
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Discussion starter · #29 ·
GSXALEX-

as i under stand it the fuel pressure solenoid just bumps up the fuel pressure when starting, allowing the car to start easier if you are in a high atmosphere area. Not sure how it figures out how to raise it tho but isnt needed on lower ground.
 
#30 ·
You know whats funny is that i used to have a problem starting my car in the morning, but since i removed that selenoid i haven't had any problems yet.
 
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#31 ·
man, 20mpg!?!? I can believe some of the fuel economy on here. Granted I dont have very many mods done to my GS-T, but I average about 29 and have gotten 32mpg.
 
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#34 ·
I tough it was there to raise fuel pressure when the engine is still hot, to avoid vapor lock...
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has anyone else ever heard of this? I haven't.

I cant imagine how it could ever raise the fuel pressure anyways unless you were in vacuum. The fuel pressure is supposed to get raised proportional to the manifold pressure. The only thing those selenoids do is open or close the pathway of vacuum or boost. In other words it could only close and not allow for boost pressure to get to the FPR which would prevent your fuel pressure from rising. However during vacuum if it were closed it would actually allow a bit higher fuel pressure compared to having vacuum signal on the FPR.
 
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#35 ·
ok.. the fp bump up solenoid is real simple.. all it does is eliminate the vaccum source from the fpr at idle so that the fp stays at base instead of dropping with vacuum... has anyone ever had a problem with this solenoid leaking? my roomate's gvr4 had this problem, almost cost him a motor.. as it broke at the track while running big boost...

Cooter
http://www.sound-performance.com
 
#36 ·
My vacuum lines consist of the following:
BOV line from manifold Td for the MBC (profec B coming soon)
FP line with the solenoid still in
PCV just normal
a K&N breather filter on the valve cover

that's it, nothing more. All nipples on the valve cover capped. I just completely took out the charcoal canister, all the lines, the whole nine yards. I have a fuel cell so I didn't have anywhere to plug that line in anyway.

I'm still rockin an egr though. Blocking it will gain you all of 0hp. It's closed under boost. The exhaust gas actually raises your octane in a sense. Think of it this way, a higher octane fuel burns slower, by dilluting the intake charge the exhaust gas has in effect raised your octane rating, without changing a thing. That let's your ecu advance ignition timing under cruise conditions.
On the other hand blocking it to keep the intake manifold and throtle body clean is a very valid reason. I fully think that is a good idea. Just don't be expecting to gain all this power from doing it.
SteveTek sells a good cheap plate that let's you toss the entire egr assembly.
To get at it just pull out your battery. It's not *that* hard, but it's not exactly easy.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
To removevthe egr, the easiest way to get at it is to remove your battery and maybe even your upper ic pipe. Just get a 12mm socket with an extension and there is one bolt on each side of the egr(2 total. You may have to wrestle around with the shifter cables a little, but no serious problems.
 
#38 ·
I have a few questions.

Guys, I removed the egr and the lines to it, which let to the thermostat housing and then to the Throttle body, I removed those and capped off the nipples on the T-body and at the water housing, I also removed the canister which led the fuel line to be sitting there, Im assuming I can just remove the whole line and plug it at the tank? I also removed the rest of the lines which led to a solenoid which im assuming is the FP bump up solenoid that rests beside the FPR solenoid, can I just remove those lines and unplug the solenoid besides the FPR solenoid?
 
#40 ·
Well, I actually used some mis-wording there, I was actually thinking of plugging the line at the tank with a spare K&N valve cover filter I have lying around, what about the solenoid, can that be unplugged?
 
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