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The_EE

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Most people say you should be in the range of -18 to -20 on your boost gauge at idle. I have never seen this. Sometimes it will hit it but move back up to -12 to -10. I thought it could have been because of no FPR but even after putting an aftermarket one on, it has not changed anything. I dont know where to start in finding the leak.
 
What does your car idle at?
Also, is your timing correct? When my car was a tooth off, it would idle at -10 -14
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Car idles between 700-750 and the timing should be correct. It had a new timing belt done right before I purchased it in june of last year, it was done at Mitsu.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Compression: 133-143-140-145
 
I have zero vacumm at idle, if i blip the throttle i only get -15 very shortly. Suppose i have a vacumm leak. Also, when coming to a stop my car likes to die, and it runs rich, but if i lean it out, it's extremely hesitant to move after i shift each gear. Do i have a problem, lol. Perhaps a vacumm leak. I removed all emissions and vacumm lines, i can't imagine that i did anything wrong, how can i test for vacumm leaks? Is reading zero at idle like super bad?
 
Im in the same boat as you pal....

-10hg --> -12hg at idle, which thanks to some Biss screwing is now set at 680-750rpm, very low....

I am not too worried about it, unless someone can recognize this as a leak...Seeing as you idle like this too, I am not extremely worried, but when I looked at DJWIRED's boost gauge at 750rpm idle his was pinned at -15 just like he said; so Im not sure if this really is bad or not?

BTW, on startup if the motor is cold, I will idle at 1000-1500 rpm and my guage will be in the 15-18hg range, but like said before, it cruises down to ~11hg at my normal set idle
 
The_EE said:
Compression: 133-143-140-145

Not bad in my opinion. I ran my 11.89 with my motor @120-110-105-115 comp. You can still make good power although your poor vacuum is a reflection of those numbers. My gauge would hang around -12-14hg with those number above. My current motor is 150-150-145-145 and with 272s I have -10hg vacuum.
 
Service limit is 122. You're still good

Take some soapy water, and spray it over the vaccuum lines and any other place where you could possibly have a leak (with it running) and see if you can't find the obvious leaks. I had the same problem this weekend.......I found i had a vaccuum leak around the #4 injector seal.
 
you guys with the low vacuum should also check to see if the connection to your boost gauge is secure. it can also be because you guys have a non-working boost gauge, so make sure you guys use a vacuum gun to accurately check the vacuum pressure and if it measures up to the boost gauge.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
ICGerms said:
That depends on whether, or not, he warmed the car up to normal operating temperature before he did the compression test.
No, the car was not warmed up. I have not had a chance to do a new compression test with the car warmed up.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
greenstreak said:
Typically this is a sign of a boost leak. Especially at the injector seals, or the tb gaskets or the intake mani gasket. I would eliminate the easy things before really worrying if there is a problem.
I do have a leak at the throttle body. I have yet to find out where it is. I got a couple big leaks out of the way. Ever since I have installed the boost gauge I have shown the same vac on the boost gauge. Its never changed. I dont think I have any leaks on the gauge itself though the gauge does show 1 pound with the car off and I have had the gauge only 6 months.
 
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