okay guys another question recommendations on subs? thinkin bout going with Jl's
best 12 subs
mnracer
21 - 40 of 56 Posts
alright, i'm jumping in. i'm not going to claim to know any more than anybody here, i'm just going to speak from my experiences as i used to do amateur comps.
JL, yeah, they sound decent, hit hard, etc. the only JL i ever used was the 13W7, now i don't want some fuckin nub jumping on my, yes i know it's 13.5 so lets skip that whole part. anyways, the 13 hits hard, sounds nice, but most of all, it hits in a different way, just makes your innards feel funny, stop you from breathing, etc.
bottom line, overpriced. i love them to death, but they aren't worth it unless you're going for the feel only the 13 can produce.
i am extremely biased to the RE (resonant engineering) se for something that sounds fucking great, and is a power hungry little bastard.
i put a 15 RE se into a 96 s10, decided to go with a nice sized sealed, little larger than recommended. fed it what we measured to be 245W. thing fucking shakes my pole barn when it pulls into my driveway. most beautiful sounding sub i've heard, and it's damn cheap for how awesome it is. if i wasn't concered with weight in my talon, i'd put one in. might end up doing it anyway, i have shaved quite a bit of weight out of the damn thing.
so, my reccommendation is a resonant engineering SE 12" for ya. can't lose.
JL, yeah, they sound decent, hit hard, etc. the only JL i ever used was the 13W7, now i don't want some fuckin nub jumping on my, yes i know it's 13.5 so lets skip that whole part. anyways, the 13 hits hard, sounds nice, but most of all, it hits in a different way, just makes your innards feel funny, stop you from breathing, etc.
bottom line, overpriced. i love them to death, but they aren't worth it unless you're going for the feel only the 13 can produce.
i am extremely biased to the RE (resonant engineering) se for something that sounds fucking great, and is a power hungry little bastard.
i put a 15 RE se into a 96 s10, decided to go with a nice sized sealed, little larger than recommended. fed it what we measured to be 245W. thing fucking shakes my pole barn when it pulls into my driveway. most beautiful sounding sub i've heard, and it's damn cheap for how awesome it is. if i wasn't concered with weight in my talon, i'd put one in. might end up doing it anyway, i have shaved quite a bit of weight out of the damn thing.
so, my reccommendation is a resonant engineering SE 12" for ya. can't lose.
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51 Posts
POLK MOMOs, 'nuf said.
for someone who works in an audio shop you really arent that bright. my 1st problem with this post is that it is Solo-Baric not baris. second, how can you say the box doesnt matter, thats just assinine. So as far as you are concerned a sealed box of equal size will hit just as hard as a bandpass or ported box with the same amp running it? Granted a sealed box is better for clarity and "tighter" bass, but if its deep bass you are going for a bandpass will not only be the most efficient but also the deepest. So just to summerize, YES the amp is very important, as is every component in your system, i.e: the gauge of cable you are using, capasitors, amp, sub, box, alt,batt,...etc. basically you should of typed your last sentance and thats it.Mitsu racerX said:
the amp and the box are what it's all about. the sub no matter what brand without the proper enclosure will sound horrible. i don't care if u spend 1 mil$ on a sub and put it in the wrong enclosure it won't perform right. now as far as amps go ....well there is alot to consider.
1) of course is power but one thing to remember that with every 50 watts of additional power you only gain about 3 db. what is more important are specs. look at the thd/ signal to noise ratio/ etc etc... and compare.
2) you might have 2 amps with the same power output same price yada yada yada....the amp that has the best specs is going to sound better and play louder.
3) bandpass boxes are never clear i don't care what anyone says. a bandpass box is just that.....it only lets out certian frequencies and is very effecient within that frequency. yes they are loud but not clear or accurate.
4) ported - good effiency because you get the front wave and the rear wave that has been port tuned. but the draw back is that the sub isn't as accurate as a sealed enclosure.
5) sealed- usually sounds the best/most accurate enclosure, but is not as effecient(loud).
it all comes down to what kind of music you listen to. i personally prefer a sealed enclosure. to decide what you may want to go with.
last but not least....build your box. that way you can make it to spec and the way you want it to look. usually is cheaper unless you are fiberglassing or something....hope this helps.
Bryan
1) of course is power but one thing to remember that with every 50 watts of additional power you only gain about 3 db. what is more important are specs. look at the thd/ signal to noise ratio/ etc etc... and compare.
2) you might have 2 amps with the same power output same price yada yada yada....the amp that has the best specs is going to sound better and play louder.
3) bandpass boxes are never clear i don't care what anyone says. a bandpass box is just that.....it only lets out certian frequencies and is very effecient within that frequency. yes they are loud but not clear or accurate.
4) ported - good effiency because you get the front wave and the rear wave that has been port tuned. but the draw back is that the sub isn't as accurate as a sealed enclosure.
5) sealed- usually sounds the best/most accurate enclosure, but is not as effecient(loud).
it all comes down to what kind of music you listen to. i personally prefer a sealed enclosure. to decide what you may want to go with.
last but not least....build your box. that way you can make it to spec and the way you want it to look. usually is cheaper unless you are fiberglassing or something....hope this helps.
Bryan
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1,049 Posts
I heard a bandpass box, did not like it at all, it was loud but the SQ was ehhh, sounded muffled. I prefer sealed myself.
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28 Posts
I compete in DB drag every year..At daytona spring break nationals
The top 4 standing subs are
1. Rockford Fosgate T2's
2. Memphis Mojo
3. Eclipse Titanium Pro's
4. JL audio W7
in that exact order.. it is a proven fact...
The top 4 standing subs are
1. Rockford Fosgate T2's
2. Memphis Mojo
3. Eclipse Titanium Pro's
4. JL audio W7
in that exact order.. it is a proven fact...
mitsu racerx,
from my knowledgeable point of view, you obviously work at a hack shop where you throw in a pair of subs in a particle board enclosure which was glued and stapled together, and pair it with a "3000 watt" amp and call it a day.
If you knew ANYTHING about subwoofers in general, IT'S ALL IN THE BOX, plain and simple. Have you ever heard of Theile-Small Parameters? From the information you have provided us with, thats answer is a "no".
Car audio competitors in dB drags, and IASCA are constantly changing/redesigning their enclosures to get every last bit of performance out of the subwoofers, without having to change their setup and get thrown into a tougher class.
In the 7 years that I've been involved in car audio, I've built WAY too many enclosures from pretty much everything, even cement.
I've built an enclosure for ONE 10" subwoofer with 300 clean watts rms that would send you running out of the car.
I've always been a fan of MMATS Pro Audio. I've had my single 12" MMATS Pro-Cast for over 6 years now without a problem. It handles any amp I pair it with. Currenly, it's in a 7 cu. ft. slot ported enclosure, tuned to 33hz.
I also have two 12" Eclipse Titaniums and also three 10" JL W6 v3's.
To me, less is more.
from my knowledgeable point of view, you obviously work at a hack shop where you throw in a pair of subs in a particle board enclosure which was glued and stapled together, and pair it with a "3000 watt" amp and call it a day.
If you knew ANYTHING about subwoofers in general, IT'S ALL IN THE BOX, plain and simple. Have you ever heard of Theile-Small Parameters? From the information you have provided us with, thats answer is a "no".
Car audio competitors in dB drags, and IASCA are constantly changing/redesigning their enclosures to get every last bit of performance out of the subwoofers, without having to change their setup and get thrown into a tougher class.
In the 7 years that I've been involved in car audio, I've built WAY too many enclosures from pretty much everything, even cement.
I've built an enclosure for ONE 10" subwoofer with 300 clean watts rms that would send you running out of the car.
I've always been a fan of MMATS Pro Audio. I've had my single 12" MMATS Pro-Cast for over 6 years now without a problem. It handles any amp I pair it with. Currenly, it's in a 7 cu. ft. slot ported enclosure, tuned to 33hz.
I also have two 12" Eclipse Titaniums and also three 10" JL W6 v3's.
To me, less is more.
I would have to say it depends on EVERYTHING that is involved in your system. From the wiring all the way to the box. Cross overs, eq's, head units, boxes, caps, battery's and even the over all cabin design of the vehicle will effect how you stereo will sound. Face it, you could spend a million dollars on a system and if you don't know how to tune it, you are wasting time. Learn the basics first. You can make walmart crap sound descent if you know what you are doing and you can make top end stuff sound crappy if you dont. I would have to say that I could find all kinds of different brands that I would use just to piece one sytem together. I doubt I would stick to one certain brand. Are far as good subs, it depends if you want spl or sq. Because if you want spl you need bigger woofers which aren't going to sound all that great and if you want to go sq, you will need smaller woofers that aren't going to db as high. But if you want my opinion, I think Diamond Audio would be my way of preference because I would like them to sound great more so than being loud as f***.
I won't claim to know anything about audio but think everyone should go take a look at this and follow the link in the text to the website for this room. 11watts... and I'm sure this room is loud enough to make you pee your pants. It's not about power, its about delivery. I think we can all agree on this relating to our cars. If you have power without the supporting mods you don't have ANYTHING. Of course the tuning of audio in a car can't be done as easily as in a room but theres a lot you can do. Building a box to correct specs and sound proofing the trunk is going to help. Make the trunk an extension of your box. There is no easy way to just slap a sub and amp together and get REAL results, unless you just want loud bass and dont care about quality.. theres a ton of old JL's around on ebay. My friend has a 12w0 in his car and its sounded good for the last 2 years.
http://musicthing.blogspot.com/2004/11/italians-build-huge-sub-woofer-tunnel.html
Total efficiency: 110 dB/1 watt/1 meter
http://musicthing.blogspot.com/2004/11/italians-build-huge-sub-woofer-tunnel.html
Total efficiency: 110 dB/1 watt/1 meter
That's really cool. good find. but don't forget, watt ratings are different, depending on different variables. I had a $1,500 Cadnece amp that was rated at 75 Watts. I ran 16 15's on it, but the amp actually put out about 2500 watts when then ohm load was configured right. You can also go out and buy a cheap Jensen amp for about $100 and it claims to produce 2000 watts.... I doubt it. Just like clothing, different makers sizes may not be the same as other brands.... I can wear 32 x 32 size jeans in most brands, but i can't get into a pair of dickies that aren't at least 36 inch waste. And also don't forget, home audio and car audio are 2 completly different ball gamespsykhotic said:
i think you missed my point. pro audio ( live sound equipment ) is different from car audio. I have an vintage ( old ) crown amp rated at 25 watts. i could use it on a bass rig and easily get around an 80 db per watt rating from it. you have to understand, just because it is rated at 11 watts does not mean that it is only pushing 11 watts...... in reality it will be more like 800 watts or more. Trust me on this.... My crown amp is rated at 25 watts and it will run two bass rigs. A car head unit rated at 50 watts per channel wouldn't even begin to warm the voicecoils in a bass rig. it all comes down to relativity in this situation.psykhotic said:
It all falls down to how much you are willing to spend IMO.
How many watts . . . sealed or ported box.
Ported boxes sound sloppier at higher volumes, IMO.
I got a Kicker 12" in a kicker ported box powered by a kicker 300.1 mono amp and it's so loud my 2g rattles.
It rattled before with my old audison srx1 amp as well.
I'm thinking about downgrading to an infiniti perfect 10" in a sealed box.
My old 10" RF punch sounded much clearer in the sealed box, but not as loud.
How many watts . . . sealed or ported box.
Ported boxes sound sloppier at higher volumes, IMO.
I got a Kicker 12" in a kicker ported box powered by a kicker 300.1 mono amp and it's so loud my 2g rattles.
It rattled before with my old audison srx1 amp as well.
I'm thinking about downgrading to an infiniti perfect 10" in a sealed box.
My old 10" RF punch sounded much clearer in the sealed box, but not as loud.
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