DSMTalk Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum banner
21 - 30 of 30 Posts
Discussion starter · #22 ·
So im planning on not getting the flywheel kit because so many people said they didnt need it. Another thing that I heard that the studs suck ass and it can break if not done right. Knowing me I'll probably break one and then im screwed. Ill ask JNZ if they have longer flywheel bolts. THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS!!! :) :)
 
djmixerx said:
So im planning on not getting the flywheel kit because so many people said they didnt need it. Another thing that I heard that the studs suck ass and it can break if not done right. Knowing me I'll probably break one and then im screwed. Ill ask JNZ if they have longer flywheel bolts. THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS!!! :) :)

Yes, we have the longer bolts for the flywheels.

We also have the automatic flex-plate adapter plates as well.

I will point out something else with this thread. Those that have been arguing against using said setup with an aluminum flywheel because "they haven't had problems" is like someone arguing that "2Gs don't get crankwalk because their's hasn't yet".

Simply put, aluminum is soft. You're torquing down steel bolts onto aluminum at a decent amount of pressure. The aluminum *WILL* compress and you'll lose torque value. Yes, I've done it in the distant past without longer bolts and the plate without issues, however, I've seen plenty of people have problems when doing the same thing.

Will it happen everytime you don't use said bolts/plate? No. Is it cheap insurance? Yes.

Those that haven't used the plates, I ask you to look at the Fidanzas when you pull it off next time. When you do, feel free to post pictures of it to prove me wrong. However, I feel pretty safe in stating that you'll find that where the flywheel bolts were tightened down will be bitten into.
 
Everyone seems to have a different experience with this one. I've spoken with people that have had bolts back out. I personally have never used this kit (using an ACT flywheel), I just tightened it down to spec with Loctite Green. This is really a gut instinct call, just hope you make the right call because a 17lb flywheel rotating at over 5000rpms is like a buzz saw if it comes loose.
 
TEC said:
Everyone seems to have a different experience with this one. I've spoken with people that have had bolts back out. I personally have never used this kit (using an ACT flywheel), I just tightened it down to spec with Loctite Green. This is really a gut instinct call, just hope you make the right call because a 17lb flywheel rotating at over 5000rpms is like a buzz saw if it comes loose.

The ACT is a slightly different beast.

Longer bolts are a good idea, but since they're Chro-mo, the bolt heads don't have the tendency to "bite in" like on the Aluminum units.

Loc-tite is pretty much the way to go on any flywheel that you're spinning up high, regardless of brand/construction.
 
TEC said:
Everyone seems to have a different experience with this one. I've spoken with people that have had bolts back out. I personally have never used this kit (using an ACT flywheel), I just tightened it down to spec with Loctite Green. This is really a gut instinct call, just hope you make the right call because a 17lb flywheel rotating at over 5000rpms is like a buzz saw if it comes loose.
Are the longer bolts needed/recommended for the ACT flywheel? They are not aluminum but is the hub thicker than the stock flywheel?

I have an ACT flywheel installed with the stock size bolts and have not had a problem.

edit- My question was answered before I even got it posted. Thanks!
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
If you read the earlier post ACT is made of Chro moly so you dont need the kits.
 
21 - 30 of 30 Posts