Mass airfolow sensor???

Clavette · Jul 29, 2006

OK so i have an 1.8L auto 94 eclipse, ive posted a few times about my problem. I've Replaced the ISC,TPS with junk yard parts and it was still giving me the problem. then i tried resetting the ECU but it was still giving me the code even before i started it, so i take it out smell for burnt parts, leaking caps. nothing....looks fine to me, but anyways my freind tells me to replace it anyways so i buy one from a junk yard 50$. still the check engine comes up and bogs down and somtimes dies but then fine right after, but i check the code with a LED light, thanks NtEclipse and it flashes like a pulse like i was told it should. could this be my MAS could that being bad, cause my ISC prolblem or vise versa.
it just seems like evreything went bad at once

thanks for any help

sandcobra164 · Jul 29, 2006

Well, you need to figure out which code your car is turning the CEL on for. It doesn' do any good to just keep waisting money on stuff like you are. Sure, you may eventually replace the right part but how much will ya spend before ya get there. Read your shop manual so you can learn how to read the codes and then look up the sensor for that code. Good Luck and keep us posted!!!

Clavette · Jul 29, 2006

yea thats just it i checked the code and it would give me code 15 ISC or TPS or some sensor? so i replayed the TPS ISC and then i dissconted the Negative for about 5 days even though i know it only take like 20 min but then i didnt start the car and i checked the code and it was still giving me 15 so i was told that the ECU was blown and then i looked at it. everything like i said it looked fine. But i got the new one since it would still give me the code and i would here like this click noise come from either the ECU or Mabey the Relay and i saw a post that said the ecu could be bad if u hered the tick noise when the check engine light came on so i got a new one and now the check engine comes on but it doesnt give me a code it just flashes like a pulse but yet i still here that tick so im not really sure

this weekend im getting paid so i was going to do a tune up since i havnt done one yet on my car what do u think?

Clavette · Jul 30, 2006

mabey a fuel pump??

sandcobra164 · Jul 30, 2006

I've had this problem before, Code 15 is Idle Speed Control Motor Position Sensor. When that fails, you're car will have a rev limit of about 2000 rpm while the check engine light is on with that code. It's a real pain in the ass but to get ya by, just disconnect the five wire connector on the idle speed control motor, adjust the base idle to 900 rpm and you should be good to go. That wire is just behind the the rubber intake pipe where it connects to the throttle body. You should be able to find it without a problem. You can't buy that sensor seperately but if you find an Idle Speed Control motor in a junkyard it'll have what you need and you shouldn't have to spend too much. Brand new, they're about 220 bucks. When you get a good one, be sure to clear the computer or it'll still act a little crazy. Good Luck!!!

DSMX1 · Jul 30, 2006

Check your wires leading to those sensors and any wires connecting to other wires, might be a split line and the signals are not being delivered sufficiently...my only guss, worth a shot IMO!

NtEclipse · Jul 30, 2006

sandcobra164 said:
I've had this problem before, Code 15 is Idle Speed Control Motor Position Sensor. When that fails, you're car will have a rev limit of about 2000 rpm while the check engine light is on with that code. It's a real pain in the ass but to get ya by, just disconnect the five wire connector on the idle speed control motor, adjust the base idle to 900 rpm and you should be good to go. That wire is just behind the the rubber intake pipe where it connects to the throttle body. You should be able to find it without a problem. You can't buy that sensor seperately but if you find an Idle Speed Control motor in a junkyard it'll have what you need and you shouldn't have to spend too much. Brand new, they're about 220 bucks. When you get a good one, be sure to clear the computer or it'll still act a little crazy. Good Luck!!!

As always, Excellent advice from someone who KNOWS.

Rock on sandcobra164... :burnout:

Now MY opinion as for the 'code 15' stuff...

The 'code 15' is a retained code and the computer needs to be reset to delete it.

I have had this code for a few years now (no damn way I am spending that much $$$ to fix a mildly crappy idle that can be easily adjusted by putting my foot on the gas a little bit when it tries to drop some) and my car has suffered NO ill effects. (stop laughing, The price of a new ISC will buy a BUNCH of beer

)

This code will NOT kill your computer, has NOTHING to do with the MAF (swapping will not help) on our cars, and is NOT going to go away with a new computer...

Even with the code 'occasionally' popping up for me, I still get at least 540 to 550 miles per tank. Affecting gas mileage is NOT a problem.

I have experienced no issues at all with my rev limit stopping short because of the ISC. This likely depends on the position that the ISC pintle was in when it failed. If you are having problems with the rev limit being low, you may want to try unplugging it as suggested by sandcobra164. I have not had this problem and have not had to unplug anything on my car FWIW.

If the idle problems are bothering you that bad, Then you may want to contact www.crebotech.com. They will rebuild the ISC that you have for CHEAP and it will work with no 'gambling' on a junkyard part. (They will also buy your old, junk ISC motors from you if you need to find them a home)
I believe they warranty their part as well... (Problem solved, but you will be out some beer money...

)

Hope this helped you some Clavette, I was trying.

You can leave the test light for your computer hooked up all the time and watch this code come and go as you are driving along. It is very easy to mount the light in your console and be able to monitor for codes all the time.
This WILL come in handy and only requires a little wire and an LED.

Best of luck Clavette

NtEclipse · Jul 30, 2006

DSMX1 said:
Check your wires leading to those sensors and any wires connecting to other wires, might be a split line and the signals are not being delivered sufficiently...my only guss, worth a shot IMO!

DAMN... The engine in your avatar is cool. :burnout:

Wanna trade?

(sorry guys, couldn't help but notice it

)

Clavette · Jul 30, 2006

Ok well i tooked out the conntector sandcobra and ajusted it but the check engine still comes on and then it dies and when i try driving it it will just die and i have to restart it and then i can drive for alittle while then it dies again. i dont know if im exsplaning this right, i know its hard when someones not there but it will idle fine at 900 then u will hear it like idle surge almost then it will just die. mabey this its a diffrent problem and im not exsplaing right i checked the wires there fine and also when i replaced the ISC i just bought the Whole Throttle body and replaced the ISC and the connector you are talking about and even with the light on im getting the same check engine code. ive tired a few of the ISC's cause i thought they didnt work and the junkyard repalced it for me but i tested the ISC manualy and it says the ISC is fine.
Thanks for anyhelp anyone can give me

P.S. i am new to working on cars but i would like to learn more and this website is helping alot

Clavette · Jul 30, 2006

sorry to replay again but ive been searching and everyone says that clicking noise means that the ECU is dieing im just throwing it out there cause i hear that click coming from under the radio and u think mabey i should get a diffrent ECU the junk yard Warrenteed it for me

NtEclipse · Jul 31, 2006

Clavette said:
sorry to replay again but ive been searching and everyone says that clicking noise means that the ECU is dieing im just throwing it out there cause i hear that click coming from under the radio and u think mabey i should get a diffrent ECU the junk yard Warrenteed it for me

If you already got a junkyard computer and they will swap it out with the same kind for free, Then you have nothing to lose... Give it a shot.

I bet the next one you get makes a 'click' sound on shutdown as well though. Mine does and it is not causing any problems and it is nothing new. You may just be able to hear it a little better now because your radio is out for the computer swap.

Keep us updated on your ride friend.

Clavette · Jul 31, 2006

well tomorrow im going to call cobra since hes a really nice guy and all

, but i just had a few questions to ask you. you say u just drive with this problem, does your ECU/Relay make a click noise when the Check engine light comes on?
and just now i was just messin around with it at Idle i can give it gas when the check engine comes on or i can fell it start to studder like the car shakes does that happen to you? also when i shift it into Drive or reverse it goes WAY down in RPM and almost instanly die , but sometimes it doesnt instanly i can drive it for a few then it will die. i used to drive it with this problem but it seemed to get worese, so i havnt drivin it at all just trying to fix it, so nothing else goes. ive heard when one thing goes on these cars alot more can go wrong if u dont fix it.... but i dunno if there talking about the 4g63 motor i hear good things about the 1.8 on here of reliablity.
i will update tomorrow after i talk with cobra hopefully i get this running for a while

it only has 65,000 miles on it

Clavette · Jul 31, 2006

also when i was just messing around with it i smelt alot of fumes outside my car if that means anything

NtEclipse · Jul 31, 2006

Clavette said:
well tomorrow im going to call cobra since hes a really nice guy and all , but i just had a few questions to ask you. you say u just drive with this problem, does your ECU/Relay make a click noise when the Check engine light comes on?
and just now i was just messin around with it at Idle i can give it gas when the check engine comes on or i can fell it start to studder like the car shakes does that happen to you? also when i shift it into Drive or reverse it goes WAY down in RPM and almost instanly die , but sometimes it doesnt instanly i can drive it for a few then it will die. i used to drive it with this problem but it seemed to get worese, so i havnt drivin it at all just trying to fix it, so nothing else goes. ive heard when one thing goes on these cars alot more can go wrong if u dont fix it.... but i dunno if there talking about the 4g63 motor i hear good things about the 1.8 on here of reliablity.
i will update tomorrow after i talk with cobra hopefully i get this running for a while it only has 65,000 miles on it

I have noticed no noises when the light comes on. For me it is just after I shut the car off that I hear the little 'click' sound from near the computer.

65k???

DAMN! Your car is barely broken it good...

Don't let this crap get you down, Keep working on it and when it's all over with and you got this problem beat, Your car should serve you well for a long time to come IMHO...

Let us know when you check that computer out Clavette. I am curious to see what happens if you swap it out.

NtEclipse

Clavette · Aug 3, 2006

Ok sorry i havnt been on but i ran into a diffrent problem which is fixed now and i went to a yankees game last night but now this is what is going on.
Ok so i dissconnect the 5 prong adapter just like sandcroba said and adjust it too 900 in Drive. so i take it around the street right when i hit a hill the check engine comes on it clicks, the RPM Drop to under 2000 just like sandcobra said it would if the sensor was shot. but now its unpluged so im not sure if that means its the ISC itself. well anyways i try to give it gas after it drops, but nothing, i cant give it gas to keep going it wont let me so i have to wait till the rpm goes back up were the check engine would go off but since the ISC SEnsor is unplugged the check engine just stays on. so im not sure what i should do now

the only thing i can think of it just cave in and buy the ISC Brand new and the sensor comes with it i think??? or i will try to get my video camra back from my aunt and mabey throw it in there and then post mabey thats my best bet for ppl to help and any comments would be AWSOME

RE's 97 gs-t · Aug 3, 2006

NtEclipse said:
As always, Excellent advice from someone who KNOWS.
Rock on sandcobra164... :burnout:

Now MY opinion as for the 'code 15' stuff...

The 'code 15' is a retained code and the computer needs to be reset to delete it.

Even with the code 'occasionally' popping up for me, I still get at least 540 to 550 miles per tank. Affecting gas mileage is NOT a problem. I have experienced no issues at all with my rev limit stopping short because of the ISC. This likely depends on the position that the ISC pintle was in when it failed. If you are having problems with the rev limit being low, you may want to try unplugging it as suggested by sandcobra164. I have not had this problem and have not had to unplug anything on my car FWIW.

Best of luck Clavette

I do not have any advice on this subject but I am curious as to how big NtECLIPSE's gas tank is because if you do the math on his miles per tank he is getting 40+ miles per gallon and I find that very hard to believe.

sandcobra164 · Aug 4, 2006

RE's 97 gs-t said:
I do not have any advice on this subject but I am curious as to how big NtECLIPSE's gas tank is because if you do the math on his miles per tank he is getting 40+ miles per gallon and I find that very hard to believe.

1.8's with a 5 speed do that regularly under normal highway cruising (about 36 or 37 around town, about 41 to 42 on the highway)

Clavette, I'd definately suggest getting that new ISC. I'm not sure why your's is still limiting you to 2000 rpm occasionally with the 5 prong connector unplugged but maybe automatics are just a little different. I guess I forgot to tell you about the "Check Engine" light staying on. And yes, my car makes a click when the "Check Engine" light comes on. Actually, that's how I know when it comes on and when it goes off. Good Luck and keep us posted!!!!

Clavette · Aug 4, 2006

well im an idiot it will let me rev over 2000 i am going to buy the isc anyways since even when it let me revs over the car will sometimes stall

NtEclipse · Aug 5, 2006

RE's 97 gs-t said:
I do not have any advice on this subject but I am curious as to how big NtECLIPSE's gas tank is because if you do the math on his miles per tank he is getting 40+ miles per gallon and I find that very hard to believe.

I am guessing I have about a 16 gal tank (gauging this from the fuel receipts for filling an empty tank). I hit the 'trip' button when I fill the car up and can go at least 500 miles before the 'low fuel' light comes on. I 'normally' make it to between 530 to 550 before the light comes on.

I have no problem driving this car for at least 40 more miles when the light comes on. Sometimes my 'preferred' gas station is a few miles away still...
The most I have driven with the 'low fuel' light on was @60 miles and then the car started to sputter when turning right.

I stopped and got gas then.

I do this with 265k on the clock, Stock OEM rings, and the cheapest gas that can be found. This car has NEVER seen premium fuel...

Money savin', 1.8l, DSM badness... :burnout:

FWIW, My 90' model, 2.0l NT barely gets 20MPG with the wife driving it. Best we have got so far is 25 but @20 is average for the 2.0l for us...

(This is a well maintained 2.0l NT BTW)

Hope this helped someone out, I was trying...

NTEclipse

NtEclipse · Aug 5, 2006

Clavette said:
Ok sorry i havnt been on but i ran into a diffrent problem which is fixed now and i went to a yankees game last night but now this is what is going on.
Ok so i dissconnect the 5 prong adapter just like sandcroba said and adjust it too 900 in Drive. so i take it around the street right when i hit a hill the check engine comes on it clicks, the RPM Drop to under 2000 just like sandcobra said it would if the sensor was shot. but now its unpluged so im not sure if that means its the ISC itself. well anyways i try to give it gas after it drops, but nothing, i cant give it gas to keep going it wont let me so i have to wait till the rpm goes back up were the check engine would go off but since the ISC SEnsor is unplugged the check engine just stays on. so im not sure what i should do now the only thing i can think of it just cave in and buy the ISC Brand new and the sensor comes with it i think??? or i will try to get my video camra back from my aunt and mabey throw it in there and then post mabey thats my best bet for ppl to help and any comments would be AWSOME

Have you checked with the Crebotech people yet?
Might save you some $$$ IMO.

Hope it all gets worked out with your ride, Keep us posted.

Mass airfolow sensor???

Clavette

sandcobra164

Clavette

Clavette

sandcobra164

DSMX1

NtEclipse

NtEclipse

Clavette

Clavette

NtEclipse

Clavette

Clavette

NtEclipse

Clavette

RE's 97 gs-t

sandcobra164

Clavette

NtEclipse

NtEclipse

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