Loud knock, no shavings, valves straight

LordDigi · Nov 15, 2006

vroom4 said:
should i check the bearings? And how do u go about that

From the sound of it, you should take the car to a shop and let them do the work. Doing your own work is great and lighter on the wallet, but shouldn't be done without experience or with someone that is certified.

vroom4 · Nov 16, 2006

this is a learning experience. im very capable of just swapping in a 6 bolt which is probably what ill end up doing anyway. its not like the work is "hard" its just learning what needs to be done.

so no, i will not be taking it to a mechanic thanks for the suggestion though ill keep it in mind

DSMscreamer · Nov 16, 2006

Why don't you check the convertor area as previously mentioned? You could jack the front of the car up if you dont have a lift, and put a breaker bar into the crank pully bolt. Turn the the engine back and forth with the bar and listen underneath where the dust shield is missing. At least you will know if it is indeed your flexplate or convertor bolts or not. Believe me, when they are loose the plate makes a hell of a racket that sounds like a bad rod knock.

Matter of fact since the shield is already off, just take a 17mm wrench and try to turn one of the convertor bolts. If it is loose then, Bingo!

y_injectors · Nov 16, 2006

Im in that exact problem you are right now......my torque converter bolts came up loose and im hoping that's the problem.....i just dont understand how would they make that sound.... it goes they same direction.....wouldn't they have to rotate clockwise and counter-clockwise in order to make a sound?

vroom4 · Nov 16, 2006

DSMscreamer said:
Why don't you check the convertor area as previously mentioned? You could jack the front of the car up if you dont have a lift, and put a breaker bar into the crank pully bolt. Turn the the engine back and forth with the bar and listen underneath where the dust shield is missing. At least you will know if it is indeed your flexplate or convertor bolts or not. Believe me, when they are loose the plate makes a hell of a racket that sounds like a bad rod knock.

Matter of fact since the shield is already off, just take a 17mm wrench and try to turn one of the convertor bolts. If it is loose then, Bingo!

Ill try it tonight. thank you. hopefully that is it and ill save myself some time and money

LordDigi · Nov 16, 2006

vroom4 said:
this is a learning experience. im very capable of just swapping in a 6 bolt which is probably what ill end up doing anyway. its not like the work is "hard" its just learning what needs to be done ...

Sorry, I didn't mean to make it sound like I was talking you down

Yes, it is definitely a learning experience

Jskrapper · Nov 16, 2006

This is a buddy of mines car...
99 AT GSX w 6bolt.

First here is the gear you are seeing and those are the common bolts to come loose. Also the plate itself may be cracked.

The circular mark on the block is where the bolt heads hit the plate

y_injectors · Nov 17, 2006

wow....im so happy those torque converter bolts were the problem.....i would of ended up doing an engie rebuild.....thanks guys....even though i wasn't the one to post this thread. But it could give some great advice....

vroom4 · Nov 25, 2006

So the problem isss...

One of the piston rod connecting bearings is totally missing. after a little examination i found that a few of the journals(sp?) are a little scored along with some bad bearings.

The cylinder walls seam to be alright.

Next step is pulling the rusted on hubs off,removing transaxle,and pulling motor/trans.

Since its pretty likely that the spun bearings are caused by broken down oil, not a misperfection in the block itself, im going to reuse it in my rebuild. Also because this is an auto. Anyone see any harm in machining the crank and replacing the bearings?

Loud knock, no shavings, valves straight

LordDigi

vroom4

DSMscreamer

y_injectors

vroom4

LordDigi

Jskrapper

y_injectors

vroom4

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