ill be installing an evo III in my 2g gsx in a few days and im curious about brake in time or procedures because ive never replaced a turbo before. finally blew up my t-25 and rounded up enough money for an evo III got the supporting mods dont worry. and i just dont want to ruin my investment. so is there any break in procedure is pretty much my question. thanks for your help.
(tried searching) new evo III questions
dsmtnr95
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ill be installing an evo III in my 2g gsx in a few days and im curious about brake in time or procedures because ive never replaced a turbo before. finally blew up my t-25 and rounded up enough money for an evo III got the supporting mods dont worry. and i just dont want to ruin my investment. so is there any break in procedure is pretty much my question. thanks for your help.
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Also make sure that you replace your fluids (duh) and prime the motor before starting. No real break in. Well none that I've ever heard of.
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No break-in needed, just make sure to prime the engine before you start it.
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Bascially you want to crank the motor over repeatedly without starting it in order to prime the turbo with oil. Pull your MPI fuse and crank the car over for a minute or so and then you're good to go. You just don't want the turbo to experience any kind of heat with the bearings dry and obviously you only have to do this the first time the car is started.
Also, before you install that baby you should really port the hell out of the turbine inlet. There is a huge casting flaw right above the wasegate passage on the Evo III turbine housings that have a tendancy to cause boost creep. If the turbine inlet is not already ported I highly suggest that you port it as I can almost guarentee it's going to creep.
Also, before you install that baby you should really port the hell out of the turbine inlet. There is a huge casting flaw right above the wasegate passage on the Evo III turbine housings that have a tendancy to cause boost creep. If the turbine inlet is not already ported I highly suggest that you port it as I can almost guarentee it's going to creep.
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Looking down the turbine inlet it should be fairly self explanitory. You want to smooth the transition going into the wastegate passage.
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About a month and a half. Ditch the dremel and find either an electric, or preferably, an air powered die grinder and some carbine burs.dsmtnr95 said:
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That is incorrect. The casting flaw is in the turbine inlet on the EvoIII turbine housings and has nothing to do with the wastegate outlet.
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3,542 Posts
EvoIII = BOOST CREEP KING!
I've crept to 28psi sadly. But ported it and now holds w/o creep at 17 to which i have it at.
+1000000000 on priming it. I did that and still did a so-called "Break-In" period for 1,000 miles. I just wanted to make sure it was all running good. It wasnt really neccessary(SP) but i wanted to do it for my sake only. Good luck with everything and post up how it all turned out.
I've crept to 28psi sadly. But ported it and now holds w/o creep at 17 to which i have it at.
+1000000000 on priming it. I did that and still did a so-called "Break-In" period for 1,000 miles. I just wanted to make sure it was all running good. It wasnt really neccessary(SP) but i wanted to do it for my sake only. Good luck with everything and post up how it all turned out.
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If you have a lot of vacation time saved up at work and no social life then yes. Get an air powered die grinder and carbide bits or you're going to do a shitty job or be at it forever. I ported my 14b (both the turbine inlet, wastegate passage, and turbine outlet), my 1g o2 housing and 1g exhaust manifold back in the day with just an air powered die grinder and grinding stones. It took forever to say the least. Take it from someone who's done this a few dozen times and get the right tools the first time. Carbide tools eat threw cast steel like butter. Grinding stones are good for nothing but polishing, cleaning up castings or machining aluminum.dsmtnr95 said:
also to do this porting my self just on the waste gate casting flaw do i need to take the exhaust side of the turbo totally apart? or can i stuff something all the way down past the wg to block big stuff from the turbine and just spray brake clean all through the exhuast housing and shoot it all out with compressed air? ( a whole bunch of times) i dont really trust myself taking apart the housings or anything ive never done it before is why i ask.
www.vfaq.com has a real good write up with pics. That should answere most of your questions if not all.
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True EvoIII exhaust turbine housings are made out of a harder cast then regular 16g housings, therefore it is a little tougher to manipulate with a dremel. I would honestly, just try it out before porting anything, and see if boost creep is a problem for you.
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dsmtnr95, Please use correct punctuation and grammar techniques FTW.
dsmtnr95, Please use correct punctuation and grammar techniques FTW.
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