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Blac Betty

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
1995 GST
I've been spending money like crazy try to find the cause for my engine knock. I've tested compression, cleaned the oil feed lines in the head, checked the lifters. The valves feed oil to all the areas needed, and all the rods are in tact. There is no oil mixed into the water, nor does the car smoke.
The strange thing is the car will run for a few seconds then turn off. One mechanic says it sounds like the main bearings may have spun. Please if anyone has any opinions of help, post some replys.

Thanks Much!!
 
If your car is knocking but still running then more than likely it is bearings,a bent rod,damaged piston,or destroyed valves usually end the motors life within seconds.If a rod bearing or main bear spun though the motor will knock its still salvagable if you act now.You can check the bearings on the rods yourself jus drop your exhaust from the turbo back and drop your oil pan after draining,from there you can check 2 bearings at first by taking the ends of the rods off,then put them back,torque them spin the motor over and check the others.Its been a while since i was in my 2g motor,but you might be able to get to the main bearing bolts from there to check those bearings,im not sure though,hope this helps and its nothing too bad.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
is there any way the lifters could be shot?? i brought over a guy who builds V8s and he said the sound is definitely coming from the top end....what could possible cause all the lifters to know, despite the fact that oil is feeding into them??
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I'm aware of the ticking, but this is worse than that...I already ordered a new set of lifters, what are known ad the 3rd generation lifters, bigger bore for more oil. When the weather clears up, I'll switch'em and let you know if the stock litfers were shot.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
OK..that's alot of people saying the same thing. I'll change the lifters, (already ordered and shipped) I'm assuming the sound will continue after replacing the lifters, so I will ask: which of the bottom end bearings do you all think it may be?? Journal or Rod bearings??
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
I ordered the "3rd Gen" lifters, with the 3.0mm oil port. See the whole reason I thought it was the lifters was, I did an oil change and added a quart of Lucas Oil Stablizer. I think that and rasing the boost shook loose all the deposits and sludge in the engine and clogged my lifters. I removed the cap screws on the ends of the head and pulled out chunks of, what looked like carbon, and black sludge. To be honest with you, the sound is coming from the top end of the motor, that's why I think it the lifters. I remember removing the oil filler cap while the car was on and it looked like the oil was shooting up out of the opening. Now the oil bearly trickles.
I dropped the oil pan and inspected the bottom end. There was no metal shavings or metal in the oil. The rods were intact, and the pistons and piston rings hold compression. The valves hold compression as well.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
supabang said:
hmm.. i got money on the rod bearings! any takers?

oh and which lifters did you order?
DAMN!!! The Lifters weren't the problem....I'm going to order the rod bearings, hopefully that will solve the problem. Making everyone who replied, correct. I guess I can get away with saying I needed the 3rd. gen. lifters, because the size of the stock oil port did not hit me till I compared them to the 3rd gen. lifters.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
So after much tinkering, asking questions, help from you guys and money spent, I took the front covers off the engine and found my problem to be THE TIMING. For some strange reason, the timing jumped by about 15 degrees. I've already ordered all the timing bits along with a Kevlar belt.
So far the valves look okay. I'll check in with a final verdict.
 
Blac Betty said:
So after much tinkering, asking questions, help from you guys and money spent, I took the front covers off the engine and found my problem to be THE TIMING. For some strange reason, the timing jumped by about 15 degrees. I've already ordered all the timing bits along with a Kevlar belt.
So far the valves look okay. I'll check in with a final verdict.
The oil squirters are known to get clooged up too so you might want clean them out.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
One more question reguarding a timing belt jump. I know now my problem was the auto tensioner going out and letting my belt run loose. I can most definately hear the valves knocing against the pistons, but why is it that, when I did the compression test, the car has compression and holds it? Does that mean the valves are OK? Or does that mean I have to change my valves as well??
 
Sure you did the compression check correctly?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I followed the instructions on the box; pull the spark plugs, screw in the tester, crank the engine 4 revolutions. The test went over correctly and showed the valves holding compression. I redid the test and waited 3 minutes between each cylinder and the pressure level held. I'm asking the question because, this sounds to good to be true. I can hear the valves tapping. I'll have to wait till the belt gets delivered and I install it to be certain, wheter or not the valves are bent.
 
your going to just have to pull the head off... if your valves are bent and tapping the pistons and you toss another belt and run it... you could do more damage... honestly, if someone on these forums notices that there timing went off and they can hear "clacking", the first thing we do is rip the head off... and while your add it, toss in a New headgasket and some arp bolts if you havent already... That gives you an excuse to clean out the head, make sure everything is TRUELY fine... if valves aren't bent... then good, you can save money to buy a h/g and arp bolts... i don't know what your funds are how important it is for the car to be running... but my .02 cents
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I know what you mean as far as tearing off the head and checking everything. Like you said, if nothing is wrong, i can at least drop in a Cometic Gasket, ARP studs, and clean everythign for that matter, but funds are a problem at this point. I do fear hearing the sound, or having no compression after I put on the new belt and get the timing on right. I'd have to say, if it does come down to that, then APR and Cometic are getting some of my money. So I really, really hope, for now, that this is all I need. I really miss driving my car.
 
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